ky2 Posted January 11, 2004 Share Posted January 11, 2004 I'm getting a DW-4 for my f3hp, and am thinking about teaming it up with the brightest screen available. I already have the standard screen as well as the E screen. I would prefer a screen with a split prism, but I am open to suggestions... 3rd party fine too. Cheers, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert_Lai Posted January 11, 2004 Share Posted January 11, 2004 M is the absoloute brightest, followed by C.<p>The all microprism H screens may also be extremely bright, but I've not tried these personally. Of the ones that I own, I would rate it as such:<p> M > C > K = E. You can't determine depth of field with the M, because it is a clear fresnel lens with cross hatch marks incised, and NO GROUND GLASS. Use <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=006t01" >Aerial Focusing</a>. C has very fine ground glass, but allows aerial focusing in the center. Ground glass allows you to see depth of field, but at the price of brightness, and "tooth" to the image. Once you've tried the M with your DW-4, you won't need the Beattie screens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_h._hartman Posted January 11, 2004 Share Posted January 11, 2004 I�m not sure a Bright Brand B viewing screen would be a great experience. I think DOF would be hard to judge and focusing on the matte field might be difficult. The H2 screen would surely be bright but it would shimmer all over the place with out of focus objects in the field of view. I�ve never own an H type so maybe I'm all wet. The H2 would work with many lenses from 24 to 300 millimeter according to the application table. If you own any slow glass the R screen is a cross between the A and E screen with a split image rangefinder slopped for f/3.5 to f/5.6 lenses. It can be used with faster glass though the accuracy of the rangefinder will be limited. One can still use the matte surface with fast glass. Also there is no problem if you stop down. I don�t think it should be any worse accuracy wise than the P or L screens since I figure the 45° slope will cut accuracy on both horizontal and vertical lines with those. For screens I recommend the M, D, K, B, E and R. Maybe I should pickup a C? The C and D are for lenses or devices with an exit pupil that is fairly distant from the film plane. There is no Fresnel on the top of the screen; there is a condenser. The C has a 4mm clear spot with a crosshair for aerial focus. Out of curiosity what is your intended purpose? Also your K and E screens are "red-dot" version, right? I note that the FM2n and FE2 are about 2/3rds stop slower in viewfinder brightness than the F3 (DE-2) and F5 so I�m going to pickup some K3, B3 and E3 screens. I�m going to have to wait as I've put so much in screens lately. Best, Dave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ac_gordon Posted January 11, 2004 Share Posted January 11, 2004 I owned several of the H series screens for my F3's for use in macro shooting. They were great, with absolutely no dimming of the viewfinder even at very small viewing apertures. (e.g., 200 f4 AIS micro with 2x converter, effective f8 viewing before accounting for loss of light due to magnification) You need different ones for different focal lengths, but I ended up using just two for the majority of my shooting. I used them for non-macro work as well. The out of focus areas do shimmer, which made it easy to focus. However, if I remember correctly, it is not possible to preview the depth of field with the H series screens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ky2 Posted January 11, 2004 Author Share Posted January 11, 2004 Both of my K and E screens are red dot. I want to use a DW4 in hope that it would force me to slow down and use my F3 more like a medium format camera to shoot landscape (nature and urban). I was just wondering whether I can improve brightness even further. Btw, I assume that I lose metering with my DW4- is that correct at all? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil_parker Posted January 11, 2004 Share Posted January 11, 2004 >Btw, I assume that I lose metering with my DW4- is that correct at all? No. That's one of the big advantages of the F3, compared to the F2. The metering is in the body, so it works no matter which viewfinder you use, or even no viewfinder. If you're just trying to slow yourself down, you could shoot without the viewfinder, and maybe use a loupe for fine focussing. Anyone find a use for a 'G' screen? I ended up with a few extra screens when I bought an F3 earlier this year, one of them being a 'G1', which is supposedly for fisheye lenses. They seem similar to an M, I wonder if it is usable for macro work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_h._hartman Posted January 11, 2004 Share Posted January 11, 2004 <em>"I assume that I lose metering with my DW4- is thatcorrect at all?" --Yaron Kidron<br></em><br>No! That happily is not correct. The meter in the F3 is in thebottom of the mirror box. When the camera is empty open the backand trip the shutter on "T." There is a big Cyclops eyelooking back at you through the film aperture. Close the back andrelease the shutter by tuning the shutter control to "B."Now take off the lens. Youll notice a pattern on the mirrorthat may look like a keyhole for an old time skeleton key. Thepattern around the keyhole is comprised of tiny oval pin holes.Light from the lens goes through those pinholes and is directeddownward by a secondary mirror to that big eye. You can see thesecondary mirror by raising the mirror(s) slowly with the mirrorlock up control.<br><br>The F3 retains all metering options with the DW-4. The F2 lossesall metering and the F4 and F5 retain only a spot meter withtheir respective 6x finders. That meter in the bottom of the F3and the DW-4 are the reasons why I bought an F3.<br><br>Using the DW-4 will give the fealling of looking at a mirrorreflex attachment on the back of a 4x5 or 5x7 inch camera. Ithink you will like it!<br><br>Best,<br><br>Dave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
todd peach seattle, washi Posted January 11, 2004 Share Posted January 11, 2004 I wouldn't worry about shopping for screens until you try out the DW-4. For conventional landscape work, I think you'll find the DW-4 stunningly bright with the screens you have. In general, I think the folks who look for 'even brighter' screens for use with a DW-4 are using them at magnifications in excess of life size, with corrected apertures in the f/8-11 range. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert_Lai Posted January 11, 2004 Share Posted January 11, 2004 For landscape, I just use the DW-4 with an E screen. It's VERY bright, as the 6x finder seems to collect just about every photon that ever entered the lens.<p>The G screens are not anything like the M screen. I had a G3 once, and sold it (it was meant for a 300mm + lens which I don't have). It is matte with an all microprism 12mm central patch. I'm not a big microprism fan, so I got rid of it.<p>Yaron, try to find your M screen soon before they are all gone. They are hard to find now that they've been discontinued. I just put my spare one up for auction, expecting to receive about $15. It sold for $46! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lex_jenkins Posted January 11, 2004 Share Posted January 11, 2004 I found my E screen to be plenty bright enough with both the DW-3 and DW-4, even outdoors in bright, contrasty sunlight and slanting light/shadow situations. The gridscreen also helps with orientation when the camera is in the unfamiliar waist level or looking downward position. (Unfamiliar unless you also use a TLR or other camera with waist level finder.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_neuthaler Posted January 11, 2004 Share Posted January 11, 2004 I hasve found the Beattie Intenscreen Plus to be really bright: it's all matte. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_h._hartman Posted January 11, 2004 Share Posted January 11, 2004 <em>"I just put my spare one up for auction, expecting toreceive about $15. It sold for $46!" --Robert Lai<br></em><br>How do you do that?? While you were selling an M screen for $46.00I was buying one new for $28.95. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert_Lai Posted January 11, 2004 Share Posted January 11, 2004 David:<p>Check again! B&H are again out of the M screen. I think the window of opportunity was about 1 week starting after New Year's day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_h._hartman Posted January 11, 2004 Share Posted January 11, 2004 OK, I ordered on 12-31-03 but the holiday held up delivery. I guess I�ve had it for a week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saikat.pathak Posted January 11, 2004 Share Posted January 11, 2004 If you prefer split prism and want the brightest one for all types of photography, I think Beattie Intenscreen 82114 would be hard to beat. I use that myself and find it quite useful in interiors and low light situations. Clearly brighter than the screens I have used for F3 so far (i.e. P and B). With this screen, you get to retain dof preview also. Off-centre focussing is not an issue either. Check here :- http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonf3ver2/screens/index.htm For pure macro work, I think Robert is correct about the M screen with DW4. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ky2 Posted January 12, 2004 Author Share Posted January 12, 2004 Not losing metering-- now that's a nice surprise! I'd get a DW4 and then look if I really need a replacement screen. Thanks guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now