gabriel_roca Posted July 9, 2004 Share Posted July 9, 2004 Hello all, I've done some digging around photo.net but can't seem to find exactly what I'm looking for. Hence . . . . Normally I shoot Tri-X at asa 250, develop 10' at 68 degrees, D-76 1:1 I'd like to push 2 stops to 1000. My guess is I'll process it in more dilute D-71, perhaps 1:3, for 15'. Does this sound about right? I'm looking for a good starting point for my test rolls. Thanks very much in advance and have a stupendous weekend. Regards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_sidlo Posted July 9, 2004 Share Posted July 9, 2004 <p>Here's TriX@800, D76 1:1 11.5m@20C (<i>Konica Hexar</i></p><center><img src=http://www.johnsidlo.com/images/AaronCookingCropsm.jpg /></center> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lee_shively Posted July 9, 2004 Share Posted July 9, 2004 Doesn't sound right to me. I shoot HP5+ at 400, process it in D76 1:3 and 15 minutes is a little short for that at 68 degrees F. I think I go about 17 minutes. Normal procedure with D76 and pushing is go with an EI of 800 and increase development 50% from normal. And that's full strength. I would recommend Edwal FG7 or Accufine or one of the other developers made for maximum film speed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roger_michel Posted July 9, 2004 Share Posted July 9, 2004 hi -- tri-x does not push well in d76. with a two stop push you will get very high key results indeed. some people have had good results pushing in hc110. you can try this. personally, i recommend pushing tri-x using ddx. i think you will be very happy with the tonal range, even at iso 1000. i have long since stopped giving people advice about times. there are WAY too many variables (calibration of thermometer, agitation technique, water PH, age of chemicals, lot of chemicals, type of reel/tank, personal preference for neg density, etc etc etc). you have to test yourself. make up a test roll then start with the recommended time for no push, then do bits at +10%, +25%, +50%, +100%, +150% and see how it looks. if you are still not where you want to be, begin playing with dilutions. there really aren't any shortcuts. even if MY recommended time seemed to work for you, you would never really know if there weren't actually a BETTER time/dilution out there. and then there's photoshop!! anyway, to answer your original question, i am all but certain that you will find the time/dilution you propose to be well below what you will need to achieve satisfactory density. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beau 1664876222 Posted July 9, 2004 Share Posted July 9, 2004 Unlike Roger, I've had good luck with D-76 as my TX push-developer. I shoot it at 1600 and then develop 1:1 for about 15 minutes. I like it better than Diafine, with which I experimented for about a dozen rolls. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beau 1664876222 Posted July 9, 2004 Share Posted July 9, 2004 Here's an example<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roger_michel Posted July 9, 2004 Share Posted July 9, 2004 d76 will work. but you will reliably produce more shadow detail with hc110 or ddx. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jack_matlock Posted July 9, 2004 Share Posted July 9, 2004 You can shoot Tri-X at 1200 if you process in Diafine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirk_teetzel2 Posted July 9, 2004 Share Posted July 9, 2004 I really like it pushed to 1600 and developed in Diafine.<div></div> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason_b. Posted July 9, 2004 Share Posted July 9, 2004 According to The Film Developer's Cookbook, D-76 STRAIGHT not 1:1 is the best way to push Tri-x. Sound weird I know, but the film voodoo guys at the lab I used to work at support this seemingly counterintuitive claim. Also, 1000 ASA is no problem. Have fun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnmarkpainter Posted July 9, 2004 Share Posted July 9, 2004 Edward, If you want High COntrast, use D76. If you want Shadow detail, use Diafine. D76 doesn't work so well in Low Light....that's where you are glad you have Diafine. jmp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dominic_. Posted July 10, 2004 Share Posted July 10, 2004 Jason... Then what is the best developer for pushed Tri-X? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickperzik Posted July 10, 2004 Share Posted July 10, 2004 i use tmax as my push developer with tri-x and it's worked great for me. it seems that it's not too popular here, and i'm not sure why, but i've been happy with the results. it's a high energy developer which means you'll get a little more speed in the shadows than with a standard developer and much shorter developing time. and in my experience, the grain is much finer than with a standard developer when pushing 2 stops or more. i wouldn't use it for anything less than 2 stops though, as it tends to give you more grain then. if you want to use your regualr developer, try an increase of 20-25% percent per stop. and whatever you choose, remember to test it before you process anything important. good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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