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India update (brief)


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ok, so i've been in chennai (madras) for 1 week now and have not died

yet nor needed my immodium, though a local bought me a cigar last

night that made me dizzy for a few minutes. my meals are costing

between 50 cents and 2 dollars. i get the largest juiciest papayas

in the morning from the local market or street vendor for about 15

cents. since i'm the only whitey around, the locals come up and chat

with very very broken english and befriend me. it's quite fun to

just walk down the street, camera in hand and join in various groups

of hindi's or muslims and have a brief talk. there's a photo to be

taken every where you look. cows roam the streets and there seem to

be no driving rules whatsoever. took a motorcyle ride the other day

with one of the local shop keeps and thought the end was near as

helmets are pretty much un heard of. there are many child beggars

and it hurts to walk down the streets and have to ignore them. if

you give to one, you'll be swarmed.

 

i'm being very conservative with my film as the culture shock is just

soaking in and it's very to just snap away when you experience a new

culture and get sloppy results. the people are very open to having

there photos taken and most of the times, it is they who approach me

to have their picture taken. a lot of the times i have to pretend to

take their picture as i would run out of film very quickly.

 

today is a holiday; pongal. pongal is a rice dish. it is a holiday

for hindi's in which they eat and relax and be merry. a local has

invited me to his residents for a pongal meal.

 

don't know if i'll develop any of my film here, so you probably won't

see any pics for a while, but i'll make a post every couple of weeks

or so just to inform ya'll how it's going. i'll also pester travis

to post some pics from the singapore stop.

 

cheers from sunny chennai,

m

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Yo, my man Matt! Glad to hear you're with my peeps, the Tamils. Spend another week there, and you'll learn that they are Hindus. Hindi is a language widely spoken in North India, about 1000 miles north of you.

 

;-)

 

Enjoy, enjoy!

 

Happy Pongal!

 

Where are you going to next?

 

PS: Drive on the left; the chances of a collision are marginally lower.

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Matt

 

I am in the Singapore airport waiting for a flight to Bangalore so I'm about to duplicate your experience.

 

I have the M6 and an FM3a and 40 rolls of film, so will likely be snapping away for the 2 weeks, although it is a business/working trip.

 

I have my scanner fixed, so there may well be some evidence of this trip.

 

enjoy.

 

Cheers

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Matt, reading your post is like reading a report from a first time colonial visitor 100 years ago! I go to India at least twice a year, since I am from there, and therefore have a different view of my country. Nonetheless, it's amusing to to read a "non-local's" perspective. I find it hard to photograph people (I'm not into street photography anyway), but if I do, preserving their dignity is my foremost concern.
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Some people are entirely too defensive about (largely former) colonial issues, and/or the state of their own country, if you ask me. <i>India</i> comes as a shock, naturally, to anyone traveling there for the first time. From what I understand, it even comes as something of a shock, sometimes, to expatriate Indian nationals who have been away for a long time. And most everyone is agreed, nationals included, that India is never what the foreign traveler thinks it will be. This, to me, says something about the complexity of the place, about its unique character (if such a place can be said to have a single character), and about its long history.<p>

 

Matt, if you're still in the Chennai area and plan on traveling a bit farther south, be sure to stop in Pondicherry. Pondicherry is "French" India - and looks it. You'll likely be taken for a Frenchman more times than not, and people will often greet you in French. While there, be sure to check out the Sri Aurobindo guesthouse, located along the Bay of Bengal right down the road from the Ghandi statue. It's supposed to be for Aurobindo's followers, but if you look responsible (and they're not booked up) they'll let you stay - and you'll not want to leave. And the roadside Tamil restaurants (often little more than small makeshift huts), frequented exclusively by <i>locals</i>, are not to be missed. Delicious lunch, served on a large green leaf, and warm, really generous hospitality. <p>

 

Travel by train when possible. As you might know India's train system is huge, well run, and said to be the biggest employer in the world with over a million employees. "<u>Second Class, Two-Tier Air-Con</u>" is the only way to go. This will get you there in style and comfort - almost like a guided tour of the country - while affording the opportunity to get to know your fellow passengers.<p>

 

Traveling between towns by bus has its own enticements. For maximum thrills (and an immediate display of blind faith) try to sit up front, right across from the driver.<p>

 

Give up the toilet paper habit while there. Waste of time. Water is cleaner, and easier to come by.<p>

 

Enjoy your travels in India. You're sure to have interesting experiences - and get fantastic pictures (so long as you discipline yourself to take them). And if you can make the time, try to get to Nepal, too.<p>

 

Travel on the subcontinent can be tricky. For anyone. Not so long ago I was where you are (and wish I was now). I lived to tell the tale and am better for it. I know of some good photolabs there and some snares to avoid. Feel free to email me if you like, any time, any reason. Travel well.<p>

 

Doug

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  • 1 month later...
Matt, it might sound like heresy, but after 5 or 6 trips to India, I learn't to put the camera away, and get involved with the people. OK so you won't have photos to show the folks back home, but your trip will stay with you for much longer. Also, be aware that South India is a bit different to the Tourist Traps up North in places like Rajastan - there you will be asked to pay for the privilidge of photographing the "locals". Save the camera for inanimate objects like the Taj Mahal if you must persist with the camera.
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