Essentials for a GX680 outfit

[kevin_bassler]

Okay, I've decided to take the medium format plunge. I shoot mostly

landscapes and some nature macro images. I have used and owned

rangefinders, but they don't fit with my style. I often make use of

ND grads and that makes using a rangefinder tough (at least for me).

I know that I could go to LF, and the movements do entice me, but

that also conflicts with my style. I am too often chasing the light,

and LF will just be too slow and cumbersome for most of what I do. I

also appreciate automation. Therefore, a medium format SLR is for me.

I have a substaintial 35mm outfit, and so 645 just doesn't seem worth

the trouble or expense. I need something bigger. I have considered

the P67 and the RZ, but I have decided on the GX680. I don't mind the

size or weight, and I am attracted to the movements, limited as they

may be, and the automation (i.e. auto winder and AE prism).

 

My first question is what items should I consider essential to go

with a GX680 kit? The kit includes a GX680III body, MF holder, 120

cassette, and either a 135mm f/5.6 or a 125 mm f/5.6 lens. (Any

opinions on the relative merits of the two lens?) Additionally, I

will probably also buy a 65 mm f/5.6 lens. I am thinking that I

should also buy (1) a 1 m cable release, (2) wide angle belows, (3)

lens hood 65/80, (4) a second holder and cassette, (5) 40 mm

extension rail. Is there anything else I should be buying, or not

buying?

 

I also plan to get a AE prism. If I do so, can I use a brighter

screen, or will that throw off the meter?

 

What other lens do YOU use and would recommend I add in the future?

[djphoto]

Your list looks good to me. Lenses are a matter of personal taste, of course. Since I use my GX mostly for commercial work, my basic lens is the 80. I had a 210, but decided I would like something shorter and am currently looking for a clean 150 -- which is what I would also recommend to you. I don't think you'll find much difference between the 125 & 135. I have a Polaroid back and use it a lot, but that may not be important for your work.

 

One thing you need to add to your list is the AA battery holder that Patrick Murphey-Racey sells. Visit his site at www.GX680.com. He's the man when it comes to GX stuff.

 

Even though you're pretty sure what you want, be sure to rent a GX for a few days before buying one. It's a great camera, but it's not for everyone.

[danny burk www.dannyburk.]

Hi Kevin,

 

I just purchased a GX680 kit two weeks ago, also mainly for landscape use. Judging by your kit list, you're buying from Robert White (as I did)...good choice! So far, I am *very* favorably impressed by the camera overall. I have several MF and LF setups, and was continually frustrated by lack of movements in MF vs. missing many shots due to time needed for LF. The 680 seems like the perfect answer. I honestly don't see a problem with size of the system; everyone complains about bulk and weight, but it fits beautifully into a ProTrekker along with 6 lenses, AE finder, extra back and lots of small accessories and filters, and weighs very little more than my similar 4x5 setup.

 

My AE prism hasn't yet arrived, but I think you'll find yourself using a handheld meter most of the time. It's a shame that Fuji didn't include spotmetering in the AE prism. I'm getting it anyway since 1) I need a prism finder when the camera is high on the tripod, or pointed toward the ground, i.e. not possible to use the w/l finder; 2) I want to determine light loss via TTL means for some of the quirky work that I do, i.e. stacking a reversed lens atop a LF lens for macro (using the LF lens adapter) and so forth.

 

I'd suggest the 80mm rail rather than the 40mm if you plan to do any sort of close-up work, or even to make a long lens focus closer. Along with that, you'd need the extended WA bellows rather than the regular one; however, you probably will want to use the regular WA bellows with short lenses such as the 65mm (which I also got), etc. The bellows is a real pain to change, so you'll want to do it as little as possible.

 

Much of the time I'm a long lens person, and would be seriously hurting without anything longer than the 150mm that Dave suggests. My selection included the 210, 300, and 500mm (the latter of which I'm only carrying if I specifically know I'll need it), but of course this is personal choice more than anything. What do you normally use in 35mm? If you like long lenses, plan accordingly.

 

Feel free to get in touch if you like; I'm also still getting acquainted with the system, but have done a lot of research into it.

 

Regards,

Danny Burk

www.dannyburk.com

[roger_michel]

just a random tip: i was at hunt's photo in malden mass tonite buying some chemicals and saw that they have a used but apparently mint gx680 kit for sale. i am sure it is marked with a high price, but in my experience the used equipment manager, steve g. (don't deal with anyone but him!!!) will accept any reasonable offer -- meaning around 50% of the marked price. i have gotten some amazing deals on used gear at hunt's and it is all guaranteed. tel 781-662-8822. seemed like a coincidence, so i thought i'd mention it. needless to say, i just glanced at the camera, so you would need to confirm condition, etc.

[patrick_drennon]

I have a 680III. I would guess that Dave has either a 680 or a

680II, anyway, you don't need to worry about the AA pack with a III.

It uses regular old CR123's and mine has had +/- 40 rolls

without needing a change. I agree with Dave about lens

selection, it is purely personal, either one you list will be

outstanding. It is one of the quirks of the system though to have

so many focal lengths so close together.

 

I haven't had any trouble at all changing bellows but the regular

bellows (IMHO) is a waste of time. With either of the lenses you

mention you will not be able to use much if any of the

movements focussed at or near infinity. The standard wide angle

bellows stays on my camera all the time now. It focusses on

infinity with both my lenses (100mm & 210mm) while still

allowing full movements.

 

This is strictly an OPINION, but the metered prism was very

poorly executed by Fuji. It has a mundane center weighted

pattern making the cost outlandish in proportion to application. I

bought a right angle finder (1/6 the cost) and stick with a hand

held meter. The remote is a great add-on. I also bought the

80mm rails and extended wide angle bellows making it a great

macro system.

 

I think you've made a marvelous choice based on what sounds

like good logic. Dave is right though, it would probably be good

idea to rent one first just to make sure.

[djphoto]

Yes, I do have a 680-I. I wasn't aware that the III takes 123 batteries.

 

One of my first accessory purchases was a wide-angle bellows, and I've never taken it off the camera. It works with lenses as long as the 210 -- I'm not sure beyond that. But I didn't find changing bellows very difficult.

 

I used RB-67s and Hasselblads for years and still have a Pentax 6x7 with some lenses. I also have a fairly complete Bronica ETRS system available to me. I use the Pentax and the Bronica for some things, but find that when I do, I usually miss the movements of the Fuji.