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What manual camera for $250?


nuno_campos1

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First of all, thanks for all the recommendations you have been giving

me. I will need one more. And excuse me for my English in advance.

 

I have been building my little and cheap system with time and no

hurries. Right now I have a FG with a 50mm, a 100mm and a 70-210mm

series E, and a Sigma 28mm. Everything used, of course. Also a SB-15,

and I think is the time for the next step. I feel that I need a

second body (that will be the main one). And that is my problem. I

have about $250 to spend in a body. But which one? I am sure that

with this I can buy a FA, FM2n or a FE2. The FM2n is a tank and it

can work with no batteries, but the programs of the FA and the FE2

would be so helpful sometimes� (well�that�s not really a problem to

the FM2n, since I have the FG�s programs).

And what about the F3? With some more $$$ I could easily buy one on e-

bay, but would that be prudent? Yes, I know that the F3 is a blasting

mechanism, and was built to last for ever, but nevertheless�

 

I am lost. So, I am asking you: what would YOU buy? And, please, be

partial and subjective.

 

Thanks for all,

 

Nuno Campos.

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If you use flash, skip the f3.

If you want AE, skip the fm2.

 

I chose the fe2 due to the above plus it was cheaper and the needle metering is

better than the led except in the dark acourse. Not too familar with the FA

though the motor is harder to find than the fm2/fe2 motor if you ever need the

motor later on.

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The FA can use the same MD-12 motor drive as the FM2/FE2. But it works better with the MD-15. You can buy the MD-15 new for $120 from B&H even today.

 

That being said, reliability of FA's is an issue. Should the electronics fail (and we're talking 15-20 year old flexible circuits here) the only way to repair it is to cannibalize another FA.

 

If I wanted to use non-AI lenses and was willing to give up flash options, I'd buy an F3. If I was paranoid about batteries, I'd buy an FM2n. Otherwise, I'd buy an FE-2.

 

What I _own_ is an FA (bought new in 1989) and an FM2 (non-N). Shows you how well I follow my own advice.

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<pre>

If manual focus only ...

F3HP! F3HP! F3HP!

It may not be the most "fancy" one, but is the

best valued manual focus camera available in 2nd

hand market.

FE2, FA? The titanium shutter curtain is too weak,

FM/FM2? No AE, Too cumbersome

FE? I frequenet found I need 1/2000, especially on slides

 

The only thing I don't like F3 is the flash synchronization,

An AS-17 costs around $80~$120

</pre>

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If you have to get another camera, get the F3. The lemmings parroting the complaints about flash synch speed notwithstanding, it's a great camera. I've used fill flash in broad daylight, so I fail to see how the flash synch presents a major problem. Use some slower speed film, that's all. The physical flash connection is quite strong on the F3. The FG is a nice camera too, I would add. I have the F3 and FG combination.<p>In your position, I would opt to get another lens than another camera body. A 24mm f/2.8 AIS will set you back less than $250 and expand your options.
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What do you shoot?

 

If you like to shoot action, wildlife or moving subjects I'd suggest the FA, FE2 or F3 because of the exposure automation. If you shoot landscapes, it doesn't matter and if you shoot in challenging weather, the FM2n might be the best choice.

 

These are all good cameras.

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Nuno

 

Faced with the same quandry, I went with the FE-2 and love it. I find it (or the FM3a)

just about the ultimate, most practical manual camera imaginable. I find the AP mode

very useful for taking shots quickly, and the needle meter readout much better that

the +/- info on the FM2. I've used it in really rough conditions (bushwacking for a

week in Alaska) without a problem. Even though I wear glasses, I find the viewfinder

a joy. Also, unlike the FM2, you can use flash and it is possible to adjust fill flash

(look on other postings for how - basically set f-stop and shutter manually and use

exposure compensation to -1 to -1.5 f-stops to adjust fill as you desire).

 

But this is a personal matter, and if possible, I would suggest seeing if you can find a

used camera store where you can get your hands on them and get a feel for the

cameras. When I looked, I was not as impressed with the F3HP, but I'd look hard at it

if I had to buy another camera -- the environment of B+H photo in NY may not have

been the best place to test its viewfinder. I would put the FM2 lower on the list.

 

Whatever you buy, I'm sure you'll come to love it. As you can see here, people are

enthusiastic about all 3.

 

Bob Yarch

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I recommend that you buy an ugly F3 or F3HP. These tanks perform well even when the external appearance is shot. I bought my F3HP on eBay for $200. Cosmetically, it isn't the most attractive body, but I take pictures with it, not of it. I had it checked out at Mack Camera in Summit, NJ and it is mechanically perfect.
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Thanks for all the recommendations.

 

Well, Robert, the fact is that I do not feel comfortable yet with the 28mm, imagine with the 24mm� Definitively, I will need more time before I decide to buy one. I normally do street, portraits and architecture photography, mainly with the 50mm and the 100mm. And a second body would really help, because I have always to pick the 70-210 for details or when I have to be discreet.

 

And, Raymond, that is a fact. The F3 prices are so low right now! I have been tracking some bodies on e-bay ant they normally go around $300. If they really are the indestructible gear that everyone rave about�

 

Right now I am slightly bent towards the F3.

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