Fixed sticking DOF lever on R6

[eduardo_pacheco]

I acquired an early R6 last week, which had a sticking DOF lever.

This got better by gently exercising the lever, but still wasn't

quite right. A few drops of WD-40 applied on the lever pivot point

did the trick, it now has a perfectly smooth movement, no sticking

whatsoever. I protected the surrounding surfaces with a paper towel,

to avoiding getting the lubricant onto the body.

[jay_.]

According to DAG, Sherry, Gerry Smith and Ernst Hartmann the reason the DOF levers eventually bind up on the R4-R7 bodies is because there is a long series of linkages running from the lever down and across underneath the lensmount and back up the other side to the actuation for the ring that stops down the lens, and those linkages (described by all of the above as the most stupid [add a cussword from Sherry]design there ever was)are made of a too-soft metal (actually, too low a modulus of elasticity)and they deform, causing them to bind at the linkage joints. The only remedy--and it's not a cure because the problem will eventually return--is complete dissassembly of the lens mount and un-bending the linkages until they function again. Furthermore DAG told me that when someone muscles the lever for a time rather than getting it fixed, the plastic bushing around the lever shaft wears, and requires replacement or else it will also cause some sticking even if the linkage has been readjusted, and a good repairman will replace the bushing if it's worn. I suspect that in your case the linkages were reset at one point and are still ok, but the worn bushing was not replaced. That is why the WD40 has had a palliative effect. Enjoy it while it lasts. The R6 is a very nice camera as R's go. I liked mine a lot and considered it a bargain. Even after it cost me $525 to get the shutter mechanism un-jammed and a second trip to Leica to get the speeds up to my standards, it was still cheaper than an R6.2 at the time.

[ronald_moravec1]

Wrong lub for this job. WD 40 has poor lub properties, but it will clean old stuff out. It`s mostly a carrier that evaporates and leaves a sticky film. Now add a light lub with a needle applicater. Model train shops sell lubes packaged by L Belle.

[eduardo_pacheco]

Yes, I admit that I was actually somewhat surprised that WD-40 worked, and would expect the effect to go away after some time. I may next try to use a Teflon spray or ACF-50, a high-adhesion aviation lubricant/anti-corrosion compound which I use on my motorcycle. This sfuff costs costs over $20 for a can, but is supposed to form a special bond with different types of materials.

 

http://www.learchem.com/Aviation.htm

[jay_.]

A proper CLA for that camera will likely run you $300, but after your DIY Jiffy-Lube seeps into the guts, you can expect an even higher repair bill. So my advice is, when you're out shopping for lub [sic], pick up a tube of K-Y for yourself for when you get the repair estimate from Leica.

[eduardo_pacheco]

I'll leave it as is for now, "if it ain't broke don't fix it". I don't use DOF except for stop-down metering with an older 90mm f2.8 lens. In any case, I'll have my R-E and R3 to fall back on if something goes wrong with the R6. If the three of them crap out altogether, then there's still the more trusty M6.

[jay_.]

An excellent and pragmatic attitude. That's pretty much what happened to me except I had more than 3 R's crap out on me.

[spontane]

Hi, I have figure out how Fix sticky leica DOF R4-R7. It is easy and you don't need to disassembly anything. Just put few

drops of special oil (sewing machine/watch oil) where I pictured it. Done! :) https://goo.gl/photos/gkecVTsshHuaCFTw9<div></div>