michael_bradtke Posted July 1, 2004 Share Posted July 1, 2004 I am looking into buying a used RB67. At this point in time I shoot 35mm and Digital (Nikon).<p> In the past I had an old Yashica D that I had a lot of fun with. <p>Now I am thinking that stepping up to the Mamiya might be fun. I would use it for landscapes and nature type stuff. SO what I am asking for is some input on what a good starter kit might be. Keep in mind that I will also be looking for a wide and a normal lens.<p> Its all hypothetical right now so feel free to go from the basic to the wild. Thanks <p> Michael Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael_bradtke Posted July 1, 2004 Author Share Posted July 1, 2004 Sorry I should have said that I already have a hand held light meter. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_seaman Posted July 1, 2004 Share Posted July 1, 2004 Michael, I have an RB67 Pro S and its a very capable camera. It is also huge and heavy... I bought a used Koni Omega Rapid 100 with the 58mm and 90mm lenses for field work. The (pre-cla'ed before I bought it) camera and both lenses is smaller (and cheaper) than my RB67 with 1 lens - and it shoots a 6x7 negative as well. The Rapid 100 is about the size/weight as my F4s with a 105mm lens on it. The RB67 is a fine camera and I use it almost exclusively in my studio but is a bit bulky for me to carry around. (This coming from someone who is 6'4" and routinely carries around an F4s with an 80-200 f2.8.) With the left hand grip it sort of resembles a vulcan rotary cannon... Some people do cary them into the field. The camera won't let you down, once you get there. The RB is handier for closeup work and it is built like a tank... Then again so is the Koni (tanklike, that is...) My advice would be to try one set up the way you would carry it and see if it would work for you. The safest advice as far as lenses go would be to stick with at least the "C" (coated) lenses and newer. I've had very good luck with my 127mm C and since I rarely venture into the field with it, that's the only lens I use. Good luck, Jim Seaman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
todd_schoenbaum Posted July 1, 2004 Share Posted July 1, 2004 I have used this setup for a number of years now and it has never let me down. It is heavy, but so what. Buy a good camera backpack, throw your tripod on your shoulder and get hiking. All that weight and strain magically disappear when you find the image you were looking for. <p> Anyway, on to the fun stuff:<br>- Pro-S or Pro-SD body <br>-lenses (I have the 50, the 90 and a 180) get the KLs if you have the money<br>-some 77mm filters (B&W or Heilopan)<br>-Polaroid back (this is the best camera item I have bought in a long time!<br>-maybe a prism finder if you want to shoot eye level<br>-an extension tube if you like close ups<br><p> I think that should do you right...<p> Todd Schoenbaum <br> <a href = "http://www.celluloidandsilver.com"> Celluloid and Silver</a> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael_bradtke Posted July 1, 2004 Author Share Posted July 1, 2004 Jim<p> Thanks for the input. <p> As to the weight issue. When I go out with my 35 stuff I bring along my F3/MD4 and a F3hp I also bring my D100 8 lens's mostly primes. The one zoom I bring is my 80-200 2.8 And of course my sticks.<p> Sometimes I think I need a pack mule...:-) So I would think of leaving the 35mm film bodys at home and bring the RB.<p> Thanks Michael Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_seaman Posted July 1, 2004 Share Posted July 1, 2004 Michael, You'll most likely not notice the weight and bulk if you carry THAT kit around already :) I'm usually carrying lots of other non-photo related gear in addition to camera stuff. Might want to think about at least carrying the F3 or digital body in addition to a couple of primes. Judging by what you are currently carrying, it will still be under weight... Its easier for me to hand hold 35mm than the RB. I typically only hand hold the RB when I've got strobes to work with and shutter speed is 1/250th or better. I will say that its hard to go back to 35mm in the dark room after doing medium format. Good luck and have fun! Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael_bradtke Posted July 1, 2004 Author Share Posted July 1, 2004 Jim Like I said sometimes I think I need a pack mule.<p> BTW I live in Florida so its not like I am going up and down mountains with all that stuff... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c.j.magson Posted July 1, 2004 Share Posted July 1, 2004 Hi Michael-I just started in MF about a year ago and aquired an RB67 and I really am glad I did-mine came with a 127 C lens as well as a 65mm and 90mm uncoated lenses- I have not noticed any degredation in quality although I use the 127 most-I have since aquired a 180mm uncoated lens that works great as well. With the left hand grip you soon get used to the heft. I showed it to a musician friend who called it a "poor man's Hasselblad"-a week later he was desperate for some photos for a printed program -I obliged, the photos were great although I had very limited experience with MF portraits,and no more cracks regarding the RB67-It is easy to double expose on these cameras by forgetting to advance the film,but other than that this amateur gives it high marks if you can get a system in good shape to begin with- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skygzr Posted July 1, 2004 Share Posted July 1, 2004 Chris - I'm not aware that any of the RB lenses are uncoated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
todd_schoenbaum Posted July 1, 2004 Share Posted July 1, 2004 Just to clarify a few points:<p> - The non "C" lenses are coated, but only single coated, not multicoated like their C and KL counter parts. <br> - The Pro version of the body (vs. Pro-S and Pro-SD) is the first version of the camera and it does not have some of the safeguards built into the later versions (i.e. multiple exposure safety, dark slide safety, and maybe a few other things).<br>- The only difference between the Pro-S and the Pro-SD bodies is that the SD model will accept the newer 75mm shift lens and the 500mm lens, and the Pro-SD backs have a slot to put the darkslide into when it is not in use. <p> Be sure to go to the mamiya website and check their forums there which are always well run and often answered by Mamiya employees. But check the old posts as most questions have been answered many times before. <p> Todd Schoenbaum <br> <a href = "http://www.celluloidandsilver.com"> Celluloid and Silver</a> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael_bradtke Posted July 1, 2004 Author Share Posted July 1, 2004 Thank you all for your great input<p>Michael Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c.j.magson Posted July 1, 2004 Share Posted July 1, 2004 I should have said "non-C lenses" not uncoated-and there is a wealth of info in the archives. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat_patteson Posted July 2, 2004 Share Posted July 2, 2004 It is a superb field camera if you don't mind the weight. I'd recommend the Pro-S body and back, and C lenses (or KL if you can afford them, as someone already said). If you want a wide and a normal, I'd look at the 65 and the 127. I have the latter and love it as a general purpose focal length. One of the great things about the RB is that it focuses pretty close without accessories (1:3 with the 127 lens, if I remember right). If you want more magnification buy a used extension tube or a 77mm Canon 500D closeup lens. You probably already have a sturdy tripod. Enjoy. . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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