Experience with Kodak T400CN

[ulrik_neupert1]

Kodak produces now a B&W film for the C41 process, available as 135 and 120 film. If somebody out there has experience with this film and can compare it with the Ilford equivalent XP2 or other B&W films I would like to hear about that.

Ulrik

[go_and]

You'll find comments and info on both of these films if you use the search function.

[adrian_seah]

Just printed some 8 x 12 print from T400CN. It is printed from a 35mm negative (my hassel is has been sent back to Shriro of Singapore for repair again). The grain seem pretty prominant under a 10x loupe. It does however seem to have a full range of tone.

 

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Comparing it to Tmax 100, I will thing that it is no where near. BTW, the picture was printed on Agfa Multicontrast Premium paper. Will try more test when I get my hassel back when I can load the Tmax 400 in one magazine and the other one with Tmax 400.

[michael_toh]

Shot two rolls of T400CN-135 and printed on Ilford MG IV RC with

Focomat V35 at approx. 7X linear mag. At my viewing distance of

about 30cm grain is not visible on the print compared to those

made from Tmax 400. I've also used the 120 version and at 5X mag.

gradation is creamy and sharpness very good.

My only concern is the film's image stability.

[tony_moats]

Not a comment, actually, but a question...

 

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I have had years of very happy experience with Xp-1 and XP-2. However, I remain reluctant to spend time with the Kodak product because (1) it applies the color mask necessary for easy, neutral printing on color paper and (2) I use mainly VC papers for printing.

 

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I have trouble imagining the color mask will not remove too much green for normal use of VC papers.

 

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Anyone done any step-wedge tests?

[wes_oh]

My results with t400cn I can say are excellent. But have a good pro lab do the processing. the mini 1 hr labs will destroy the negs - scratches all over the negs and poor chemistry regulation. With good processing these negs print great. I use an old omega enlarger and 35 and 120 negs using polymax and ilford multigrade rc papers w/#3pc filter (old filter type for polycontrast papers).

[seth_kantrowitz]

One of my customers has completely switched to this film for B&W. He shoots up to 50 rolls/week of 120 and 5 to 20 rolls 35mm. This saves him about $50.00/week in processing costs. Standard B&W is about $1.00 more expensive per roll than C41 at our lab, and paying an assistant to do it is even more expensive. He likes it better than XP2 he rates it at 250 for electronic flash. I like tis film better than XP2, because it is less prone to scratching, and drying problems in mechanized equipment, a major problem with XP2. This film has great exposure lattitude, but not as good as XP2 on the over side.

[brit]

An amateur photo mag here in the UK compared three chromogenics several months ago. Of what I can remember the Kodak film seemed sharper than XP2. It also needed to be printed on a softer grade of paper as the negs had a higher contrast (think about half a grade). What I have seen before with XP2 is its problem of high temp drying: a recess can be formed where the last lines of wash water/wetting agent resided. If this happens to your film it can be corrected by resoaking and leaving to air dry. This is a problem Kodak's doesn't seem to have. Please tell us of your findings. Cheers.

[andrew_fildes]

Just started using it at 35mm. Found the grain structure as good if not better than Delta 100! Processing at a good minilab that I trust costs me about the same as the film and I can use the prints as proofs and a printing guide. As an amateur, I save time and effort processing the film and the lab produces more consistent, cleaner negs that I can (I work in a high school - NOTHING stays clean or unbroken for long!) I'm about to try it at 120 but I suspect that I won't be bothering with the chore of processing film again and can concentrate on printing. Would appreciate any comments on the effect of contrast control filters (Ilford) - using no filter seems to give me nice, even-toned portraits but are the filter grades as for normal negs?

As to longevity? The only 20 year old colour negs I have that have survived well were the ones I had processed by a professional lab. With B&W, it may be better to print a good one on fibre paper and selenium tone it. The neg may be gone but the print lives for 400 years, I believe.

[francis smith]

I've used it for maybe 12 rolls of 120-- i've had them developed at a commercial photo place in Westport CT-- just about the only game in town-- and printed on that kodak paper which is super contrasty-- i don't recall the name. I took them up to Atlantic Filmworks in Hamden CT-- the guy there said that he feels TCN400 is a bit mushy-- has to do with a sort of bubble like with a crystal core kinda grain structure. I had just purchased thirty rolls of this film in nyc! Well, I think I will use the TCN 400 for pictures of humans-- and use a tripod with slow slow film for my landscape work. I use a plain YaschicaMat with a gossen luna lux light meter. I will be getting my first enlargements in a few days. He suggested I not go above 11 x 11-- but that may have more to do with of my need for a tripod. I will keep you informed.

[francis smith]

I got my enlargments, printed on kodak rc-- the full name slips my mind. they came out okay-- though lacking in the accutance which i love. I'm now shooting landscapes in chromes-- having learned my lesson on tcn, I have ordered a whole variety of chrome film-- I'm enjoying the process. My next thing is to look at how TCN can be pushed-- see what happens to it. since I'm not crazy about it-- or b&W right now-- I'm just gonna have fun with it-- see what happens.

[francis smith]

Kodak's spec sheet on T400CN reads well for exposure latitude. Says even without push processing, over exposing does okay. Push processing is recommended for 1600, most certainly advised for 3200. Pushing by a factor of two for the latter, or even former. But, don't take my amateur word for it-- look on their website! And please, anyone, answer my question under Mamiya:1000s-- jump or wait?

 

thanks. Francis