Mamiya 645 focusing problems

[gary_moon_lppo]

I have a recurring unpredictable problem with focusing my 645 super using both the 80mm F2.8 and 150 F 4.0 lens. I have a split screen prism viewfinder. Lens have been checked out by Mamiya, eye glasses have been re-esamined, and now camera body, both film backs and both lens are at mamiya for checking alignment. I find that if I focus on the black tux/white shirt of groom in bride and groom pose, bride and groom are soft or out of focus, and rangeof focus is located behind them. Any comments suggestins, or solutions welcome.

[conrad_wang]

Please check the focuse screen.

Maybe there is something wrong with it, and make some error when you are focusing.

[benjamin_yu2]

Maybe it is the focusing screen being installed the wrong way. I'd heard such instances before.

[howard_lester]

I had to send my 1000S to Mamiya for repair of this very problem - to the tune of $366. That included an overhaul, as well as repair to the back. I have yet to try it out.... I do notice that, when focused at infinity, the microprism grid STILL does not go fully "smooth". It's better than before, but not perfect.

 

<p>

 

Maybe this is what I get for buying a used camera.

[danny ouellette]

I have similar problems using my 35mm system, and it seems not to be

the camera, but something in the configuration of my eyes. I've had

the camera checked out, and it is fine.

 

<p>

 

The thing that was most telling for me was having friends on a couple

shoots take pictures with me using my camera. I'd make a couple shots, and then they would take a couple. Consistently, my focus would be BEHIND the subject, as yours is, and their pictures would turn out crisp and sharp.

 

<p>

 

The couple suggestions that I can offer are these.

1) If possible, use a larger depth of field. This has saved many a picture that I have done.

 

<p>

 

2) If you can, do some test shots with an accurate measure to show how much out your focus is. I find mine is about 6-8inches. I've learned to adjust this while focusing. Basically, I focus a sharp picture on the view finder, then bring the focus back a little to compensate. It's by no means perfect, but my focus has been slowly getting better.

 

<p>

 

I hope that this helps in some way!

Danny

 

<p>

 

djjo@torque.net

http://www.torque.net/~djjo/homepage.html

[mike_long]

I don't have a Mamiya 645 but, historically, a sharp focus plane behind the subject indicates a spacer has fallen out - seen more often when an uninitiated repair man opens the prism when a Beattie or other after market screen is installed.

 

<p>

 

Sending the body to Mamiya was the right thing to do as nothing will ever be right if the screen isn't shimmed correctly and calibrated for exact focus.

 

<p>

 

Mike

[david_hall]

It's possible that the problem isn't with the focussing screen but with the proper shimming of the film backs to set the correct lens-film distance. Maybe this is what needs service. I had a similar problem with a 645 Pro and Mamiya shimmed the backs!

 

<p>

 

You might test to see if the focus problem occurs at all distances. That may be a clue. Good luck! DaveinFLL

[ken_eng]

Gary,

 

<p>

 

I've had the exact same problem you have recently and after reading all the answers to your question, I'm not sure if what I thought was the solution to the problem is correct. Recently, I did a studio shoot and I had focused my Hasselblad on the model's chest and the face was terribly out of focus. I was using a waistlevel finder with a Beattie screen and a 80/f2.8 lens. My thoughts were my camera was too close to the model. I was practically at the closest focus point the lens was capable of which, in effect, reduces the depth-of-field of the subject in focus. Another thought was I was trying to focus on a dimly lit blonde haired model with no real contrast in her features to zone in on except her blouse, so in effect everything looked focused on that small screen with the magnifier down. In addition, most of my out of focus shots occured near to the end of the shoot when my eyes were tired. I was almost positive it wasn't the Beattie screen because I've gotten tack sharp photos from it before at close distance and sharp photos from the same shoot earlier when I was about 2-3 feet further back. After all, I was shooting at f11 which should bring the entire model into focus, right??? Maybe not, using an aperture of f16 at close focus the DOF is extremely shallow on earlier subjects by just mere centimeters. I don't know... I haven't tested my theory yet, but I think your answer lies in backing up and cropping the shot.

 

<p>

 

Hope this helps!

 

<p>

 

Ken

[dennis_lee]

The problem can be solved by adjusting the reflecting mirror.

[cliff_lesergent]

I just had the same problem fixed on my Mamiya 645 Super, at a cost of CDN$385 (which included a lot of unnecessary "repairs" that the Canadian service centre decided to do while they had the camera apart). Apparently the 645 Super (and possible other models) is somewhat prone to mirror alignment problems.

[olivioargenti]

I have a Mamiya 645 SUPER with 35, 80, 150 and 210 lenses which I have used for portraits and full body photos often taken in fairly low lights (I use 400 ISO, tripoid). I have difficulties with correctly focusing. I believe this was due mainly to the fact that I was shooting at f/4 or f/5.6. I also find it difficult sometimes to clearly adjust the focus as the split FOCUSING device gets black and does not allow me to see how lines get together for focusing. When this happens, focusing the eyes of the subject gets impossible, so I settle to focus on the mouth or the nose, hoping that with f/8 or f/11 I will get the eyes OK too (I have just recently done some tests but will geet the results in September due to summer vacation).

 

 

Anyone can kindly advise me on this particular issue?

 

 

I have difficulties in reading but see well in distance although I also suffer from some

astigmatism. When I use my reading glasses for shooting, I see everything blurred and

must take my glasses out. I also have prescription glasses, not to be used for reading, with

astigmatism correction. When I use them shooting in low light I only see a marginal

improvement on the clarity of the overall picture. Should I need a diopter?

 

 

Thank you

 

 

Olivio