Instead of switching the display from EV to shutter priority to aperture priority, it just cancels the last reading to zero.

So, that means that the button does something, just not the right thing.

Everything else works fine.

Any ideas about how to fix this?

This is my first post. I cannot find the correct forum for my questeions, so I choose this because of a similar post.

Ok – I hope so much that there might be a solution to my problem, since AGFA Support hasn't gotten back to me 🙄

The fixed glass and interior of my Agfa DuoScan f40 from maybe 2002 are so dirty that I'm constantly busy retouching.
I actually have a second one now, and its interior is much cleaner, but the glass panel also has a cloudy film on the bottom, the streaks of which can also be seen in the scan.

So how do I remove the cover that holds the glass panel in place? It's a separate part, but the user manual doesn't mention it. At the back, between the lid hinges, there is a recess that looks exactly like an opening mechanism, but even there – no success. I cannot press, move or somethigs else at this recess. I am attaching two photos of it.

Maybe someone here knows what to do?

I've already been through French chat rooms and even contacted Agfa support! They're probably still laughing. Or googling.

Thanks in advance!

Sophia

The fact is, a friend and I printed some 35mm photos, and since I have a medium format camera and medium format enlarger lenses, I'd also like to get some printing equipment, but I'm not sure which models to choose without spending a fortune.

For 35mm, perhaps having glass in the negative holder isn't necessary, even though we use it, and it must be said that there have been few difficulties with printing, with prints always being fairly even in the center and edges.

For medium format, perhaps glass is even more important.

Some very popular models are the Durst M600 and the Meopta Opemus Standard 2.

I found the Durst M600 with this negative holder:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DuxHj2Tj-HJBHG-7qY8yUchr9-Cw6kYj/view?usp=sharing

While I found the Meopta Opemus Standard 2 with this negative holder and condenser:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VZU_FzqTA9I7xGwJWp46Byqtbjiu2T_r/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1EaX_8i34-pT3GvdTv2lwwCIL273FAj_r/view?usp=sharing

The Meopta negative holder seems very good to me, and it comes in this format. Status:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rEArG_-CVz_Pzmes-wKDb5UX3uiVsgGL/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/12XrZAeNXmyArX-vG3P6Uxqq3GzNbmRt_/view?usp=sharing

The finish near the supporting column is a bit damaged.

The thread should be M39 for both, right?

I know that ball-heads are quite popular with other users here, but I fail to see the attraction. All of the ball-heads I've tried only have three states; namely

1. Totally sloppy but allowing free and fairly precise movement of the camera.

2. Semi-locked and supporting the camera, but juddering and stuttering under pressure and not allowing precise pointing of the lens at all.

3. Completely locked up - a good thing only if the lens ends up pointing where you need it to.

My experience is that nowhere in between totally sloppy, and uselessly juddery, is to be found at any point of rotation of the locking knob. 

Maybe I just haven't found the right head? However, I've tried quite a few, and spent considerable time fiddling with the friction adjusting set-screw in a vain attempt to find that sweet spot. I've tried greasing the ball, which helps with the judder slightly, and I've tried leaving the ball dry. But that 'just right' balance of friction and smooth movement I cannot find. 

Now I just stick with 3 way pan-tilt heads on my tripods. At least I can point the lens exactly where I want it with those.

The only exception is with a monopod. A ball-head works OK there, because I can make fine adjustments by moving the whole thing around.

So is there any such thing as a firm-yet-smooth ball and socket head?

What is the reason for that? Is it the gimbal that doesnt work or the other electronic control transmission that does not work?

Can I take photo and video with this setup? I know the R1 has the mode switcher above, but can the modes be switched in any other way?

What other good hand held options are there to help with this? Or should I not bother with this setup as it is too heavy?

I already have the R1 camera for photography and thinking about doing some video work with it also.

Mainly for small events where my customers keep asking for video help also.

What's the easiest way to solder the two wires : the thinnest wire, top one,  goes to the centre of the plug.

Thanks!

Thanks!

José

I'm about to travel to a tropical, humid climate and I'm looking for a shoulder camera bag that works well both for walking around and for transporting gear on planes and trains.

I'll be bringing: Nikon D850 + AF-S 20mm f/1.8G + 28mm f/1.4E + 85mm f/1.4.

This kit doesn’t fit in my smaller bag, but my larger one — Domke F-833 — is too big to carry around comfortably.

What shoulder bags would you recommend for this kind of setup and environment?

Thanks in advance!

retracts half-way when I focus on infinity with my Yashica 50mm f1.8

autofocus lens? It works fine with close-ups! I have no such

problems with the 35-70mm autofocus zoom lens. I just bought the

50mm lens from a dealer in England: it's old stock, but barely used.

It looks like in the instructions it is removable but the instructions aren't the best.

Does anyone have one of these that can confirm it is removable.   

Thanks

I do want to shoot some pictures out in daylight, however, finding a warming filter for this camera has been quite difficult.

It has a Baldanar 1:2.8/45 lens that works with push on filters (I think they're around 33mm). When I bought this camera it came with a size 370 Kodisk cloud filter and lens hood, but any attempt to find similar filters online have been difficult, especially 'type A' filters.

A similar type of lens filter I can use is the Series VI 1 5/16" adaptor with a Series VI Type A filter. But, all the filters that fit the bill have been in the USA, which can be expensive to buy and take some time to ship over.

I do have the manual for this camera, and it does show that Balda has its own filters but I have not been able to find any information on them.

I live in the south of the United Kingdom, and I was wondering if anyone knew some place I could go to search for any filter I could possibly use.

Thank you.

A drawback is they are not coated, causing flare when used outdoors.  Strange!

I'm looking for user reports, sharing of questions and comments, general interest.

So my questions are:
1) did any of you make similar tests ?
2) what do you think the listed 0.1s recycle time means ?
Best,
Marc

The 2x2 uses 4/5 Sub C NiMH cells. I don't actually know how many, but I have plenty on hand to do it(I ended up buying 25). If I had to guess it's either 7 or 8 but don't actually know(the original Turbo uses an 8V battery...).

In any case, it's easy enough to pull the "brains" out, but I'm stuck with actually getting the cells out of the case. It uses the same style leatherette type case as the QB1/2/Turbo, although a different size and shape. It seems as though Quantum used a double sized foam tape to secure the pack to the case.

I've gone in with a knife and thin straight edge to cut the 4 strips of tape I've found, and have twisted and otherwise manipulated the case any way I can think of. There's no way to get a good hold on the battery pack that I can see short of yanking on the wires, and no amount of shaking or anything else seems to even get the battery pack to want to budge.

Has anyone done one of these before themselves?

BTW, I'm not a stranger to re-celling in general and once I can get the pack out and use it as a template I'm equipped to "do it right". I have a spot welder, a selection of nickel strips to weld the batteries together, and plenty of shrink wrap for battery packs in different sizes. I just need to get the pack out!

problem with the auto focus function.

The auto focus works and so does the manual focus. The problem is that

the auto focus drifts. When the first slide is focused manually the

projector will then start to shift the focus, it won't remain in the

sharp focus setting. It continues to drift the focus until it

ultimately pushes the lens completely out of the projector body. Once

in awhile it can be focused manually and the focus will not drift but

as soon as a slide change is made the drifting starts again. The

slides are mounted in Gepe anti-newton glass mounts.

If anybody has any info that can help me out with this problem or

knows someone or a place that can help please reply to this message.

Thanks much..........John

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

PS - there was also a Gossen Sixtar (Super Pilot in the USA) which apparently needs a 1.35 Mercury battery. I've fitted a 1.5V cell and surprisingly the readings are accurate, and the needle goes exactly to the battery check mark when operated. Perhaps a previous owner had it adjusted, or am I just lucky?.

Ozeck II MC 28-100 mm f3.5\5.5 will be appreciated. Thanks.

I am incredibly torn over using any sort of lens protectors on the cameras.  I understand the arguments for and against protection, but I am also concerned with any diminished photo quality.  
Does anyone have experience with using protectors on their iPhone cameras that can share a bit how photo quality was or was not impacted?  Thank you.

Anyone know what this Fuji accessory is used for? Thank you/Brian

For a few reasons, though, I'm looking to complement it with second AS ball head. I'd have no hesitation about buying a second B1, but I know the Z1 is newer, improved, and has some compelling features(even if I've not found the B1 lacking).

I've found a fair deal on a used Z1, but it comes with a lever lock. I know AS is adamant about only using their plates with ball heads, but their selection is also limited. Most of my cameras have RRS plates or L brackets with a few Kirks mixed in, and all of my big lenses with replacable feet have feet from these companies(2x RRS, 1x Kirk). I do have a few generic no-name AS plates, although my use of them is pretty limited. I don't think my X-T5 has ever been on a tripod, but I have a Smallrig grip on it that has an AS-compatible dovetail in the bottom.

I know that basically any dovetail plate I drop in my B1 will fit and be secure as long as I either slide it in or open it up wide enough that both sides drop down into it, and then of course tighten it up enough.

The manual for the Z1 of course is adamant that only AS brand plates be used, and does not cover whether or not there there are any available adjustments. I've been reading on and off the past day across old threads on this site and elsewhere, and some reference adjusting the lever clamp and others talk about swapping it out completely for an RRS clamp.

Can anyone speak directly to the compatibility of RRS and Kirk plates, feet, and L Brackets with the lever lock Z1 plate?

If there's an issue with them, I'll just get another B1 with a screw lock. I'm a bit afraid to try, though-my B1 is one of the revised ones(gray tension knob) that's supposed to be less prone to locking up, and mine never has on me. I hate to throw a second into the equation, though, know the possibility is there.

thanks

Anyone have any clues on how to repair that viewfinder? 

Any help would be greatly appreciated 

632LCD flash unit?

Thanks

However with B+W filter is what confuses me and can't find enough information about it. First confusion is price. BHphoto sells them (77mm <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?atclk=Circular+Sizes_77mm&ci=115&N=4077634526+4291599900+4294954537+4294955264">link)</a> in a range of 100-200 $ (depending on version) and Schneider optics <a href="https://www.schneideroptics.com/Ecommerce/CatalogSubCategoryDisplay.aspx?CID=530">link</a>, which is wholesale, sells it in a range 300-500$! Another confusing thing is mount. Schneider optics offers next mounts:<br>

- <a href="https://www.schneideroptics.com/Ecommerce/CatalogSubCategoryDisplay.aspx?CID=692">Standard F-Pro Mount</a><br>

- <a href="https://www.schneideroptics.com/Ecommerce/CatalogSubCategoryDisplay.aspx?CID=1818">XS-Pro Digital Mount</a><br>

- <a href="https://www.schneideroptics.com/Ecommerce/CatalogSubCategoryDisplay.aspx?CID=736">Slim-Line Mount</a><br>

Which one do I need for the use mostly on Nikkor 10-24 DX lens? Seems that Slim line is the slimmest but doesn't have front thread, which means it is not possible to attach another filter in front of it. Am I correct?<br>

That opens new question about ND filter which I also want to buy, probably Hoya NDx400. Does anybody use ND in combination and if so, I guess it comes on top of CPL? Also, what about stacking linear polarizing in front of CPL to reduce amount of light? Can't decide is it better to have one ND filter, or Liner polarizer to get variable ND reduction?<br>

I know the best thing is to have whole bunch of accessories but can't afford it so I'm trying to make best possible combination which I can afford. Thanks for help.</p>

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