Zone Focusing Techniques

My area of experience and skill is with SLR cameras, and I can use

these fast with accuracy (many years of 35mm wedding photography!).

 

My retirement gift to myself is a Leica M2 with a couple of lenses.

I have not used one of these camera since the 1960s.

 

I find rangefinder focusing slow, and i need much practice.

 

I saw a photo of Bresson using an M camera with a piece of tape over

the small rangefinder window. It is my understanding he used zone

focusing extensively, and the split image was distracting to him.

 

I like to do zone focusing when using a 35mm lens, and I usually set

the aperture at f/11 or so and use the depth of field scale. A few

members of this forum indicated that such is not always accurate.

 

Does anyone have any suggestions and hints for fast "street style"

photography using zone focusing with a Leica? Most appreciated.

when using a leica, i use zone focus almost exclusively. with a 35mm lens, i set the lens to 3 meter mark and then shoot at f8 or f11. i have gotten very good at knowing when people are in my focus zone and have taken most of my best street candids this way. i should add that until i got an m7, i used all my leicas, including m6, with one of the voigtlander vc meters. this allowed me to meter without putting the camera to my eye if i wanted to. in truth, most of my daytime outdoor street shooting is done by guestimating the stop. i find that this is quicker and easier than using a meter and then making a correction for backlighting, reflectivity of subject, etc.

The problem with "street photography" using a wide-angle lens and a small aperture is that you really need an uncanny and instantaneous sense of composition because so much in the shot will be in-focus. Most such images I've seen (including those by some of the "greats")leave me searching for just exactly what the subject is. Candids made with longer lenses and wider apertures, the selective-focus is a tremendous help to both viewer and photographer in creating a striking image. However I have never gotten the hang (if there is one to be gotten)of doing that kind of photography with the Leica due to the central focusing.

yes, it does take practice. it is also the case that not everyone will appreciate even the best environmental portraits. that is why there is such a variety of cameras, lenses, and work product. however, when i look at a shot like HCB's famous photo of the denunciation of the nazi collaborator, i realize that the effort required to make good environmental candids is worthwhile.

IMO, it's also a waste of expensive new Leica glass, if that's what you're using while zone focusing. There are a lot of old lenses that are just fine @ f/11 (although the newer lenses do handle flare better).

 

As to focus tips, especially using real (not zone or hyperfocal) focus, I don't really have any. I've gotten a lot better in the last year or so, but am still slower than the AF on my G2 (which isn't a particularly fast AF). For moving subjects, I do often use the technique Andy Piper calls "trap focus," where you focus ahead of your subject & wait until the subject comes into the pre-focused area. I think it helps to have years (or the equivalent of years's worth of exposures) to practice, as Todd has had w/SLRs, & also to stick to as few lenses as possible so that it becomes easier to previsualize DoF & instinctively associate visual distances w/turns of the focus helical/tab, etc. Then again, some folks never get the hang of quickly focusing a RF--in contrast, I couldn't (manually) focus an SLR quickly to save my life!

 

FYI, if you go to the archives & look under the "Technique" heading, you'll find many threads on focus techniques, like this 1:

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=002d5Y

 

-----

 

"The problem with "street photography" using a wide-angle lens and a small aperture is that you really need an uncanny and instantaneous sense of composition because so much in the shot will be in-focus."

as for whether it makes sense to use a leica for this kind of photography, i would say: (1) there are other things about the leica that make it suited for candid street photog besides just the qulaity of the glass (quiet, compact size, reliable, quiet, easy to adjust focus, can be focused quickly if you want to, good lens line up, quiet); (2) the quality of the leica lenses reveals itself not just in terms of sharpness, but also in terms of the tonal palette (for b&w); and (3) you can actually get quite good at zone focusing, to the point where you would be unlikely to do much better with a moving target even if you did use the rf -- especially where a 3D subject is involved.

i don't really zone focus. i use hyperfocal on occasion. i also guesstimate distance; say w/35 in daylight w/100 film, i will set the lens at 10 ft, sneak up on my subject, lift the camera and shoot when i'm at 10 ft.

At least 70 of the 78 "street" images in my

<A HREF="http://4020.net/everyday">Sydney Everyday Life</A>

project were zone focused.<P>

 

Over the years I have taught myself how to accurately estimate

three distances: 1.8m (for use with the 35mm), 2.5m (for use

with the 50mm) and 4m (again for the 50mm). I do it by simply

looking at the ground between myself and the subject - after a

while you can eyeball just how close you have to stand (or back

off).<P>

 

At first my "guestimates" were usually way off, but 4 years down

the track I can get them close enough to shoot at f2.8 with the

50mm and have the subject in good-enough focus.<P>

 

It just takes time and practice and patience and luck!

> I couldn't (manually) focus an SLR quickly to save my life!

 

hmmm ... look through viewfinder, turn focusing ring till sharp.

If you always keep your lens focussed near infinity when carrying your camera it quickly becomes second nature to turn the lens, always in the same direction, until the images come together. If you go slightly past shoot anyway! This saves the hassle of always trying to figure which way to turn the lens. I've known photographers (in the good old days) who removed the infinity latch from the focussing tab so a straight pull withou pushing the button would move the lens. If you do this, save the parts. Makes a major impact on resale value! With a 35mm lens outdoors it's hard to be truly out of focus. You can walk around the house practicing this technique. Film isn't needed.

A friend of mine bought an M1(no RF an very cheap) for this purpose, he uses it with a 24mm with finder. He always takes an M3 with him also. Shoots at f8-11 and has focus near infinity(5m i think). He says you have to keep at least 2-3 meters distance from subject to keep pics sharp. Pics look great, and hes really happy with the cheap body($450 mint!), hes always nagging about the price of a M 'shutterbox'.

 

Greetings,

I use zone-focusing often with my Leica M. I find the 35mm lens works very well because besides the additional DOF over a 50mm lens, it also has a unique property for true "blind candids". With a 35mm lens, the long side of the negative is equal to the distance from the subject. If you can eye-ball the space between you and the subject, and rotate it 90 degrees, you can frame pretty accurately without viewing. Now if you can do this, and your lens is set for a zone of say 5-12 feet, you can capture some interesting images without drawing attention to yourself.<P>

 

I shot this by just walking through some crowds with my M6 with zone-focused 35mm Summicron hanging around my neck at chest level. I laid my thumb on the shutter release (looking like I was simply keeping my camera from bouncing around), and shot when something looked interesting in front of me within that range. I like that nobody in the shot is reacting to a camera, and this would be impossible to achieve while rangefinder focusing.<P>

 

<center>

<img src="http://www.photo.net/photodb/image-display?photo_id=949706&size=lg">

</center>

Hi, Todd:

 

I have experienced a lot with zone focusing and it works for me most of the times so I'll tell you how do I do but guess that you'll have to go through your own trial and error process until you feel reasonably satisfied with your new ability.

 

In first place, I seldom use the much praised 35mm for street photo but my prefered 50mm Cron but the mechanics to follow is the same: as Al says it helps to keep the lens focused to infinity so that you always know what way to rotate the focus ring and if you practice enough looking at the distance scale while you rotate the focus ring through different angles you will became able to zone focus without even looking at the lens, provided you also practice long enough at guessing distances, setting them in the focus ring and checking out how close/far you guessed. This exercise may be a little frustrating at the beginning but pays by itself. You will soon notice that it doesn't extend until the end of the time because you'll need to learn how to guess and adjust your focus through a distance range that will not exceed the one metre to 4 - 5 metre range. It doesn`t make any sense beyond that range as you'll find out from the marks on your focus ring; specially in connection with street photo because of self evident reasons. Moreover, this excercise can be done entirely indoors so that you don't look silly trying it in the middle of Main Street.

 

If you suceed in doing this you'll soon be able to quickly step at the right distance from your subject (so that you won't need to look through your viewfinder), guess what distance that is, adjust the focus ring to that distance without looking at your camera and shoot in just one mostly unnoticed movement. My main problem so far is that my images are not always are stright enough.

 

Best regards

 

-Iván<div></div>

Fast RF focusing and zone focusing are skills I want to learn. I am horrible at estimating distances visually. Again, it is all practice.

 

I often use vintage folders like Nettars, Isolettes, and Kodak Tourists, and none have rangefinders. I have three hand rangefinders and none of these agree with each other even after adjusting them! Just like: "no two meters ever agree." This can be humorous if you really think about it..."photographic truths" like "falling lenses are attracted to rocks," or "photographers do it in the darkroom, alone."

 

Anyway, I need to estimate distances wherever I go, just for practice, and I really like the idea of shortening the strap and keeping the camera chest high...photography without looking! I have seen many photos of Leica photographers carrying the camera chest high. I'm going to trim my strap right now.

 

I appreciate the sample photos of zone focused portraits. I love to look at other photographer's photos anyway, regardless of the subject or technique.

This is a quick digital self-timer image of me by my porch using Alfred's idea of a chest high strap with zone focusing and minding my own business, taking photos all along the way. See how un-photographic I appear! Much thanks.

Oops...here's the photo (never said I'm brilliant!).<div></div>

Dang it, Todd! If you want to sneak around un-noticed that ain't the shirt for it! As far as the lenses not all giving the same distance reading? They don't have to. With the advent of auto-exposure electronic flash about 30 years ago the need to divide a "guide number" by the distance to find the f-stop became obsolete. Guide numbers became obsolete. I can't think of any reason for a distance scale on SLR lenses beyond tradition. On rangefinder point-and-shoots it's not real critical; depth of field will cover your butt when you're mostly talking 4x6 prints. I think you'll find high end optics to be more accurately marked, especialy on rangefinder cameras like Leica, but 99.9% of the time nobody would notice if they were off the mark. Most people only care that the lens' focus point matches the rangefinder's.

Well Al...you caught me. I usually dress in rags and tatters, but that was a quick shot in my How-are-ya shirt. I like to wear an old safari shirt as a light jacket and hide my camera under that.

 

I'm not an engineer so I just don't understand all this tech-talk I've been given...hey, I'm being totally honest. I even needed a distance/aperture/strobe output "cheat sheet" glued to my Norman 200B when I used that for weddings.

 

I need things veeeeery simple! Like: set the 35mm lens on 15' on a bright day at f/11 with 400 film and stay within such and such a distance and you should be ok...see how stupid I am?! ;>)

Jay,

 

The subject matter in a street photograph is everything within the frame. This idea came about early in the 20th century, with the advent of modernism, which applies also to painting. A 2-D design class teaches the basics of composition, which usually has something to do with the fact that an image is more interesting if the eye is directed through the entire frame and back again, and doesn't just settle on one point, like a face in the center of the picture.

 

As for shooting without looking through the viewfinder, sure, that's OK on occaision, but I don't think it should become a standard mode of operation, because then it's a cop-out, and a half effort at making a photograph. Face the subject, move quickly, give a greeting, but behave as if you know what you're doing and you have a legitimate reason for doing it. Don't pretend and hide by keeping a camera on your chest. It looks more obvious than you might think anyway.

No duh! I obviously know how to focus an SLR, it's just that w/an

SLR there are so many variations between sharp, sharper, &

sharpest that I tend to waste my time tweaking the focus (&

*then* checking DoF w/the preview, that being 1 of the main

advantages of SLRs, after all). With RFs, focus is binary--the

split image either matches up or it doesn't, & I can do that a lot

faster.

--------

 

"> I couldn't (manually) focus an SLR quickly to save my life!

 

hmmm ... look through viewfinder, turn focusing ring till sharp."

Christopher, with an SLR you may find it easier to start from minimum focus and increase focusing distance until the image appears sharp. If you go past the sharpest point, start over from min. focus. This is the SLR quick-focusing technique recommended by respected LUG & LEG member Ted Grant.

 

Todd, you're not stupid (at least, if you are, you have yet to prove it). :-) BTW, your shirt looks like batik and you're not holding the camera level. :-)

I suspect that there are a lot of photographers who can pretty much judge what's going to be in the frame when they're not looking through the viewfinder. I know that I can judge what's going to be in frame with a 35mm or 90mm lens at a certain distance, pick up the camera when I'm at that distance, and only have to move back or forth a few inches from there to frame properly. We already put up with about a 40mm discrepancy in viewpoint between lens and viewfinder in an M and compensate quite nicely. I know guys who shoot pistols who can close their eyes with the gun at their side pointing at the ground and then raise the gun and hit the target. Maybe not consistant center-of-the-bullseye, but good enough that I wouldn't want them shooting at me! If a street photographer is getting good well framed shots that make him or her happy who are we to judge? A lot of really great photos have been cropped out of not-so-great negatives in the darkroom. 24mm x 36mm is not a sacred shape.

Al,

Thanks, but I'll look through the viewfinder, frameline discrepancy or not. I don't like to depend on darkroom cropping to have to make something out of a weak shot. It rarely happens successfully. I don't say that shooting from the hip can't work for some, sure, to each his own. I suspect though that more often than not this method of working yields extremely boring results .

IMO, zone focusing is an integral part of Leica technique. <p>In 1932

Model II, Leica introduced the first couple rangefinder in camera history. At the same time, Leitz began to put depth of field scale

on lens barrel, which clearly indicate that zone focus technique as

well as rangefinder technique is part and parcel of Leica photography.

<p>The strength of M is that it has a more precision rangefinder than

SLRs, if you need it. However in many circustances, where split second

reaction means a photo taken or loss, there is just not enough time

for rangefinding,(like many HCB masterpieces ) no matter how fast you can make the two images supperimpose.

<p> About fast technique in Leica rangefinding, I remember reading some where that Ralph Gibson always set his M at infinity, when

a picture opportunity arises, he quickly take his M to eye level

and focus in split seconds.

ray -- virtually none of my favorite street candids could have been obtained had i put the camera to my eye. i think you are simply unaware of how good one can become at determining what is in the frame without looking thru the VF. indeed, i now often feel very contrained when i put the camera to my eye -- so much of the potential scene is blocked from view. if you think of the amazing things people can learn to do with lots of practice, i think you will realize that learning to guage what's in a vf from hip level is not so difficult in the scheme of things (learning wrist vibrato -- finger was easier -- was a far greater challenge).