A common problem with this camera series is the battery test light shows permanently in the view finder - and is draining the battery fast. The cause more often than not is - under the test button is a little metal tab.When you press the button - the tab is pushed against the test circuit - thus completing the circuit. When you release the button - the tab springs back into the open position - the simplest switch in history in reality. However - the tab if depressed too hard can instead of just bending down - can also bend "across". The tab's"L" shaped and upside down - so imagine an upside down "L" - your button is pressing on the L horizontal. Under normal use - just that horizontal plate bends - but sometimes (usually because someone pushed too violently) the vertical part of the "L" (the upright part) bends over too - and when that happens - the horizontal tab is pressed permanently onto its circuit contact - thus the red light remains on. To fix:- Pull back the tab AND put a small piece of plastic/hard foam/sliver of rubber - between the upright section and the circuit board (there is a gap and that why it bends over). (now the upright can't bend over) To get to it is actually VERY easy - (despite what some money grabbing repairers will tell you - I rang a repairer and was told the cameras finished and not repairable !!! ) REMOVE THE BATTERY The left hand side of the camera where the button is - does NOT require any other sides to be removed first. Peel off the leatherette. (Its very thick and no way can tear unless you are just a clumsy idiot) (Run a scalpel blade along edge first several times and then carefully start to tilt the blade under the leatherette and it will slide easily under and you can then slide it across and under the leatherette and then peel it all away with your fingers.)(Use Pliobond to put it back on AFTER you clean the old glue off with thinners) ( Adhesive, Pliobond 1oz Tube | eBay ) Under the leatherette are several tiny 1.3/1.5mm round head screws. Warning - on MANY Bronicas - these screws are very tight AND these screws are pretty SOFT - so DONT use any old small screw driver to remove them. IF you want to fix this camera "easily" and fast - very carefully test the tightness with a "000" phillips or JIT screwdriver - NOTHING bigger. (you've been warned ) They are available on ebay. IF you do not already have one - do not buy one in screw driver form - because IF the screws are glued in - the small shaft on a handle on this size screwdriver will not give you the torque/grip to remove and they WILL slip and wreck the head in one immed movement. If you do have one - and the screw does not turn easily - do not persevere with a screwdriver - you will wreck these soft heads. INSTEAD order (on ebay) a number of "000" phillips or JIT screw driver BITS with normal hex shafts - that you can use in either a hex ratchet driver or a mini socket set with wrench handle. The bits fit perfectly into a 1/4" mini socket) Then - pressing down really hard - with the handle/lever gripped in your hand - carefully turn a small way. The torque now exerting works EVERY time., The sealed screws just can not resist this torque. BUT press down hard into the fresh screw head. Once it turns - just use the bit in your fingers to unscrew. (Im so fed up with glued in tiny screws on cameras I now ONLY use this method first up to remove screws) Remove all the screws - depending on the model - there are 5 or 6 screws and depending on model in different positions !! (WHY??) Then remove the shutter speed selector dial/knob. Its easy - also depending on the model - there is either a chrome plate on the top or a piece of leatherette. Remove either and under thatwill be two more screws holding the actual knob to a small round turning plate. The round plate is also then screwed to the actual dial selector (brass) cam which you do not need to touch and so your shutter speed remains in place for this job. PLEASE NOTE:- TAKE PHOTOS over every step of removing this selector dial. NOTE which tiny screws go with which piece - some are round head some are counter sunk. Some are even different sizes. Use white out or a bright pen - anything to marlk the positions of each piece relative to piece they are covering and SET THE SHUTTER SPEED TO 500 BEFORE you start. It will just make reassembly very easy if you are methodical first. With the screws from the little round selector removed remove (On some models only) the remaining brass SLOT head screw sitting to the side and lift off the cover. CAREFULL - a little steel pin with a round flat head will drop out - so better to turn the camera at this point upside down so the cover is under the camera as you take it off. (it comes off very easily). If you forget and the pin falls out - it goes intothelittle shaft on the back of the flash socket on the side. Use a tiny bit of Vaseline on the head to keep it there when putting the side back. Now - with the side off (all this takes only about 20 mins BTW) - you can see the tab under where the button sits pressed against its circuit connection. Carefully bend it away and back to the upright position and super glue a spacer between its upright part and the edge of the circuit board and reassemble the camera.