Zeiss Ikon Nettar folder lens question

I've just acquired a 1940s Nettar 515/2 folder with a Nettar-

Anastigmat 105mm F3.5 lens. The format is 6x9 so it is a sizeable

negative.

As this is my first venture into medium format photography I am

wondering whether the angle of view is equivalent to a 35mm camera's

standard 50mm lens.

Can anyone tell me what sort of result I should expect given that the

optics appear clear, though they are uncoated. I assume that

originally this cameras would have been expected to do little more

than produce 6x9 contact prints, so is it unrealistic to expect any

greater degree of enlargement?

The camera has a Compur-Rapid shutter which appears to be functioning

correctly.

I am looking forward to putting my first film through it and if

anyone can recommend a reasonably priced mail order processor for 120

film in the UK, preferably one that does contact prints, I would be

glad to hear it.

Thanks, Simon

Simon, I have never used a medium format camera, that, when properly adjusted, hasn't impressed me greatly in terms of image quality when compared to my 35mm gear.

 

The only way to find out about image quality of your camera is to have the film processed. You can definitely expect to make substantial enlargements (assuming that the camera is okay).

 

Do you want b+w or colour film processed? If you answer I can make some U.K. recommendations

Simon, I've not used this particular lens. The Nettar 515/2 was made from 1934-1938. You'll find that the lens is roughly the same "normal" view as a 50mm lens. However, the field of view is much wider. That is, you get extra room on the sides.

 

I would expect that once you stop down to f/8 or smaller, the camera should yield very acceptable results, as long as the lens standard hasn't been knocked out of place at some point in its 66+-year life. I would think that you could easily get A4-size englargments.

 

As with using any 6x9 camera, the most critical factor is stability. A tripod will help, but if that isn't practical, keep your elbows against your body. If you're using the waist-level finder, keep the camera against your body.

 

Best of luck to you. Post some results in the "Classic Cameras" forum, if you get a chance.

Simon, the Nettar was the Zeiss medium quality folder, not the cheapest nor the most expensive. As above stop down to achieve best results. Remember to focus carefully using the scale as the depth of field for this lens will be much the same as other 105mm lenses. The angle of view should be visible in the finder though these were never wonderful (depite being called 'brilliant' finders) and are often now cloudy.

Hi Andy, The simple answer is both but as I've never had much success having B & W processed commercially I will probably try colour first. You can email me at debrux(at)aol(dot)com if you would like to pass on your recommendations. Thanks, Simon

Simon, I have emailed you.

 

Re. B+W it can be better to get a specialist hand developer/printer to deal with your B+W work than commercial labs. It need not be too expensive. I'm sure many commercial labs are fine, but I find that B+W work can benefit from the personal touch.

Most importantly, use a lens hood. The old lenses are prone to flare.

Simon, I have the same camera although with a Tessar lens, but do have other Ikonta folders with the Novar lens. I agree with Colin and Raid.

 

The 6x9 technically can yiels superb results due to today's film quality and can be enlarged for quality prints of very large size. You are certainly not limited to contact prints.

 

Some tips from my experience (I have had 6x9 and 6x6 folder negs drum scanned at the time of developing as well as prints done):

1. The lens you have (sure it is not a Novar?) will be an uncoated lens - so it will be prone to some flare and is not optimised for colour film. BUT, I have never had a bad result with my Zeiss-Ikon mid and lower end lenses in these pre-War folders. They can render very good detail that is made so with the help of today's great films. But I take care not to shoot too directly into the sun. I only notice flare shooting into the sun.

2. Your lens is a "standard" one like a 50mm in 35mm format. Your's is, for its day, fast - so for best results shoot 2 or 3 stops down.

3. On the lens/shutter you will see a couple of red dots near the aperture numbers and focus distance scale. These are telling you the optimal settings for "quick shooting". This is to say that if you're shooting in the street, a setting of those distances and aperture will render a sharp image.

4. 6x9 is difficult to get printed - most labs do not have 120 carriers that hold 120 larger than 6x7. So that's why I get mine scanned mostly. When I look at shots on my computer at 100% print size they are huge and beautiful. Of course you won't get Zeiss/Hasselblad or Leica sharp and detail but very very good anyway.

5. Take your Ikonta to a service guy who knows old cameras and ask him to service the thing - test and clean the shutter. The slow speeds are the first to deteriorate and you can tell (if your model has one) by using the delay timer (small switch on top of the shutter housing) if it runs more than 10-15 seconds then the slow speeds are out - most often just dirty. The shutters need regular exercise - so after it is serviced fire them off regularly. He should check the bellows door and frame alignment - should pop out smoothly into place when you push the release. They are simple good quality cameras and should not cost much money to have serviced. Here in Australia I just had all my old cameras checked and serviced and the average cost was $30 - great to know they are ship shape again.

6. It is worth adding a UV and a hood but they are hard to hunt down.

7. These bodies are light (but tough) so with the bellows extended they do catch even the slightest breeze - when shooting slow on a tripod, be sure to watch for breezes that may soften your images.

8. They are good to use as point and shoot cameras too and your shutter has a good range of speeds and when serviced is quite accurate.

Have fun

A tripod and cable release are the best ways to boost sharpness.

 

If sharpness is an issue then you can plan on doing 5x7 prints all day without to much distraction. Sharpness issues aside, even an 11 by 14 of the right subject can be pleasing when slightly soft. 8 by 10 will allow for a little cropping of the image and 5x7 provides even more wiggle room.

 

Assuming the camera has been serviced, one can expect f/11 to be sharper in resolution than f/16, which will in turn be sharper than f/8.

 

The lens hood provides an extra boost with regards to contrast and protection from serious flare.

Yes, an image can be very pleasing without having high acutance (sharpness). My Rollei Automat from 1954 gives great enlargements even with the lens fully open. The grain is difficult to see even though the perceived sharpness isn't as high as the same camera at F8. Sharpness isn't everything. BTW, at F8 - F11 the Automat gives enlargements with better sharpness than does any of my 35mm gear.

Some of the oldest 515/2's have Nettar Lens on them, not Novar. Maybe the same thing, maybe not. I don't care for my 515/2, it sits unused much of the time. Issues with film flatness, and lack of contrast.

 

YMMV but there are too many good cameras to deal with a kinda lousey one.

 

Find yerself a 517/16 or 518/16 with a Novar lens or the 520 series with the Tessar. Amazing things can and will happen with those cameras.

 

tim in san jose