Zeiss Ikon Contaflex Experiences?

I'm thinking of picking up a Zeiss Ikon Contaflex - they seem like

really nice cameras and they sell for next to nothing. Has anyone

here had much experience with them? If so, what models do you

prefer? I talked with a camera technician who felt that a Model 1 or

2 would be best because the 45 mm tessar lens is very sharp. The

later models, however, have 50 mm tessars with interchangable front

lens elements that provides greater flexibility. Opinions? And

could you post some photos taken with a well-functioning model?

 

Thank you.

I have a later model Contaflex Super (second type) and the recomputed 50mm pro-Tessar. I suspect it may be the sharpest 50mm lens I own (Nikkors, Takumar, Nokton notwithstanding).

 

I like the 35mm f3.2 and 115 f4 lenses.

 

If you have tried a Contaflex then you are aware that there is no instant return mirror, which is a very different experience. The mirror stays up until you advance the film and cock the shutter, i.e., you are blind until you advance the lever.

 

I should use mine more. The meter is very accurate. I like the solid feel and construction. I plan to use this camera more over the next two months.

 

There is some issue of compatability between early models and later models.

 

Ivor Matanle sheds some light on this in his Collecting and Using Classic Cameras, giving a good list of models, but he does not offer definitive information about lens incompatibility. Pacific Rim has some more information.

I've had a decent amount of experience with them...both from a use and a service standpoint. I would say models I and II are the most reliable, and I'd really suggest you find one that has been serviced recently (within the past 2-3 years). It won't be cheap, but it should be reasonable. With Contaflexes, the devil is often in the aperture. This is an area sellers seldom check, or maybe they don't know how to check it. If the aperture is sticky, your pictures will be overexposed and will have a "halo" of blur at the edges. This is caused by the blades still moving...they are trying to close as the shutter opens/closes, and their movement is recorded in the picture. To work right, they have to quickly shut to their adjusted limit before the shutter ever opens. Personally, I'd get a model I or II, a Teleskop 1.7x accessory and I'd leave it at that. If you like macro work, pick up some Proxar lenses. The 45mm is fine for general work, and the 1.7x Teleskop brings it up to 76.5mm, which is very nice for portrait work, or for bringing an image in a bit. If you have more specific questions, please feel free to contact me directly.

 

Jon

The aperture sticks frequently on these old camera. I've got a couple that have this problem. They look great on my shelf.

The ones that sell for next to nothing are not working properly in almost every case. If you can find a I or II which is working properly in around the $50 range you will have a real bargain which will give you a fine photographic experience. Either version of the Tessar lens is a fine performer by any standards. The Pantar equipped models are OK but there are plenty of Tessar models so it's not really an attractive choice. Yes, there are several interchangeable front components for some Contaflexes but they are expensive and don't offer much in speed or performance. If you are looking for a vintage SLR with interchangeable lenses this is not your best system.

I'll fix models I and II with sticking apertures, but I don't work on the other ones. Here is a picture taken with a model I...just for fun. Copyright, J.Goodman 2001, all rights reserved.

Thnak you for sharing your experiences with Contaflexes. I'm assuming that any camera that I buy will need a thotough CLA and am factoring that into the price. Even so, I should end up with a very nice camera for less than $200. That is a good deal!

Jon,

 

Why do you only work on models I and II? Are the later models more complex and difficult to repair?

I really like shooting with the Contaflex. I have the early Contaflex super (with the ISO dial on the front). One of the good things about the Contaflex is that there is a limited number of things that you can get for it. It really is possible to obtain everything that was ever made for it! I am only missing a few filters, the M1:1 macro lens and the close-up steritar but, other than that, I have everything else.<P>

I have had good results shooting with it and have posted a couple of folders of Contaflex shots (including stereo shots made with the Steritar 3D attachment)<P>

<a href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=338581" >Contaflex - Black Creek Pioneer Village </a><P>

<a href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=338584" >Contaflex - Vegetarian Food Fair</a><P>

<a href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=344868" >Contaflex TMax100 City</a><P>

<a href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=348423" >Stereo Contaflex Toronto</a><P>

All in all, it is much more satisfying to shoot with it than with the all auto cameras. The meter in the camera is still reasonably accurate (but I still have a Sekonic for a second opinion)and (even though I have some small separation on a couple of the lenses) the quality of the shots has been more than acceptable.<P>

The only sore point (for me) is that the super doesn't have X synch for the flash and so I am forced to use the IkoBlitz and actual flash bulbs (which I have only a limited supply of) rather than my trusty old Vivitar 238.

There's a tradeoff: the most reliable and easiest to keep running are the ones with front-element focusing because the shutter is solidly fixed to the body and the cocking mechanism is more secure. But the best lenses are on the ones with unit focusing which are less reliable.

<br><br>

The choices are:

<br><br>

Front element focusing:

<br>I, II (fixed 45/2.8 Tessar);

<br>Alpha, Beta, Prima (interchangeable 45/2.8 Pantar; 30 and 75 available)

<br><br>

Unit focusing:

<br>III, IV, Super (all versions), Rapid (interchangeable 50/2.8 Tessar; 35, 85, 115 available)

<br><br>

I've had a I, a II, a IV and a Prima, and I've repaired pretty much all models (not every variation of the Super). I kept the Prima as the best compromise of features and reliability, though I know that the lenses are not as good as the others (they're not bad though).

<br><br>

rick :)=

My first Contaflex was model I with exposure meter flip up cover, 45mm

f2.8 front focusing tessar. My current Contatflex Super Flashmatic

has a unit focusing 50mm /2.8 lens, with automatic exposure<p>

I like the Super Flashmatic better, once the lens is put on 'A'

for automatic, it works like a shutter priority camera, hence simpler

to use<p> With the older model, you need to manual turn the shutter

speed dial in order to match a loop needle which changes with shutter

to the exposure needle, like Zeiss Contessa, a bit slower to use.<p>

There is no hot shoe on my Contaflex flashmatic, instead there is

a pc connect in front of the accessory shoe.

Rick Oleson succinctly answered the question. I don't enjoy repairing models other than I and II, because as the Contaflex models progressed, they became more complex and difficult and frustrating. Elements in their design led to failures, as I see it. I suppose it boils down to the thought that I'm not as comfortable that I can do as good of a job on the later ones. Actually, I just don't think the later models were made with the same spirit--maybe it was a matter of corporate culture or an attempt to turn the camera into something different than the original designers envisioned. Personally, I enjoy and admire the simplicity of the first models in the same way I admire a Chevrolet 235 six-cylinder engine or a rotary dial telephone or shaving with an old fashioned double-edged blade. I think they were designed like a fine jeweled watch movement...capable of outliving their owner if maintained correctly. I really can't say that of the later models. Don't know what else to add. They're remarkable cameras, and I think everyone interested in 35mm photography would find something to like in them. They were not cheap, by the way. Some years ago, I was fortunate enough to find one that had been bought new and left virtually unused in the box with the sales receipt and manual. In 1955, a model I sold for $155. A 1955 Chevrolet Bel-Air with that 235 six I mentioned? A sticker price of about $1,750, as I recall. Pick a basic Chevy of today...Malibu, maybe. Sticker price of what, about $22,000? How many 35mm cameras do you see selling for over $1,900 today? Sort of makes paying $100 or so for a good one seem more interesting, doesn't it?

 

Jon

I had bad experience with Contaflex I, the shutter failed many times.

<p> Also in second hand camera shops in Toronto, 70% of the Contaflex model I has jammed shutter.<p>

I actually bought a Contaflex I before I bought the Contaflex super<p>

 

Unfortunately, the Contaflex I shutter jammed after two rolls of film,

luckily the shops that sells me the Contaflex I had warranty, so I

return the model I, and exchange for a Contaflex Super flashmatic,

and paid the price difference.<p>

One more thing about Contaflex I: it has no film/shutter advance lever, instead, it has a large milled knob, which is extremely tight,

I had to bite my teeth and turned the camera body in order to advance

film. Super is much better

Martin, there was something wrong with your Contaflex I. The wind knob in this model is normally not at all hard to turn, and the shutter is certainly no more prone to jamming than the ones in any other Contaflex model, and it's easier to fix than the later ones if it does develop a problem.

 

That said, the later models are more versatile and their lenses are marginally better.

 

rick :)=

Rick, you are right in saying the early models are easier to repair,

becaust that is the only one camera which I repaired successfully

myself, twice<p>

 

I had used two Contaflex I, all with die hard film winding knob.

I love my IV. The classic camera experience, but with SLR

viewing.

 

Slow shutter speeds have stopped working on mine. I don't use

the meter, even though mine is still active. Last year I mailed

KEH to get a repair estimate. Their quote was $150 for a

complete CLA.

 

Don't worry that the lens is front-cell focusing only; the pictures it

produces are gorgeous. I'm judging this quality based on prints

up to 8x12", on Frontiers.

 

My knob film advance is firmly-silkly-smooth. Not as easy or fast

as lever advance, of course, but I don't mind it.

The Model IV is not a front-cell-focusing lens; the interchangeable Tessars in the III and later models are unit focusing. and very good, especially in the later Supers.

i have the Contaflex ii , and it never gave me a problem,only fantastic results, had it CLAd recently , and i'm sure it's going to outlive me alright . very happy with the color rendition this 45mm 2.8 Tessar lens produces. i mostly use asa 200 films in it.

 

i'm so glad i got this model,one of my favorite go anywhere cameras. cheers ! pc

Members,

 

from my sight the Contaflexes from zeiss-ikon were mechanically highlights. The touch and feel of such a camera, no plastics, but

sound and solid metal makes me feel good to work with.

 

As This stuff was made in the Sixties,not always properly stored or neglected, there can be some trouble from overstorage and stiff and hardened grease.

 

With my Super(old model) the shutter speeds below 1/3o are to slow.

My Super B`s are just wonderful, the Selenium photometers are just fine and the Automatic works just to thze point. Remember, all pure mechanics from steel,brass and leather,no electronics!

 

With my Super BC the problem is finding true PX 625 Mercury cells

voltage 1,35 V.

The Pro-Tessar are great,with the 3,2/35 being my favourite.

 

Remember using sunshields and filters, Icolor C for colour,green and

orange and blue for B/W work.

Then there is good fotography the next fifty years,until the cameras are around a hundred years old.

 

Always have good light Georg Scheck

I have a III and love the 50mm tessar and tiny size (for an SLR).

 

These are wonderfull cameras but they are often found all gummed up. Mine works flawlessly above 60 deg and slows down below that coming to a grinding halt at about 30 deg. CLA's on the III and up, are close to impossible and I have not found anyone that would consider doing it..Some partial disassembly did help and I have been able to use it more extensively...

 

Find one you like, set the shutter to 1 sec and close to 22 and watch the action. Typically many are sluggish to close to 22 slowly (if at all)and this obviuosly leads to over exposure. Also check how long the shutter delay is, many times it is significantly slow. Shutter lag should be just a tad longer than a modern SLR.

 

If you find a good one buy it up! This is the camera that started me down the road of camera collecting. Zeiss Ikon cameras are wonderful instruments and the Contaflex has all the attributes of their more famous family members without the collector price.

I plan on having any Contaflex I buy CLA'd. Lubricants that are 40+ years old have got to be removed. Henry Scherer, the person that is overhauling a Contax IIIa for me, recommended Z-V Service for Contaflex work. Contact info follows. He'll service all versions except the Contaflex I with the MX shutter. Later MXV shutters are servicable.

 

W W Umbach dba Z-V Service

1410 Seafarer Dr; P O Box 754

Oriental, NC 28571

(252) 249-2576, FAX (252) 249-3924

<p>I still keep my Contaflex Super B</p>

<p>I have a Contaflex Super B and Super BC, with the wide, normal and tele lenses. I'm a Zeiss Ikon fan, so my view is biased!<br>

I like the feel of the cameras and their heft. Although they are inferior in my view (in bulk, quality of feel and results) to the Contarex and its wonderful lenses, I'm quite happy with the results from the Contaflexes. I was lucky in that mine did not need a CLA. The Super BC meter doesn't work, but I just work around this. They are certainly good value, provided (as many of the others have commented) that they are in working condition.</p>

Zeiss Ikon Contaflex Super B flash-matic

Carl Zeiss Tessar 50mm F2.8

Shutter B 1 2 4 8 15 30 60 125 250 500

Aperture stop 2.8 4 5.6 8 11 16 22

Film winding and shutter clocked by lever