Your favourite B&W film+developer for landscape and why.

<p>I start with b&w photography and do not have experiences to share with my preffered films and developers yet. Share with yours and why it is your favourite.</p>

<p>FP4 in Rodinal. I tried FP4 in Rodinal many years ago (about 15) and didn't like the results. That was my fault - my technique was off. So I went over to Delta 100, but recently I've come back to FP4 in Rodinal, rating it typically at 50 ASA and devving in Rodinal 1/50, 20C, 8.5 minutes.<br>

I've come to have a great respect for FP4. It is very sharp and has a 'gutsy' tonality - punchy midtones, yet subtle highlights and luminous shadows.<br>

Rodinal has been my developer of choice for 25 years. It is uniquely robust and reliable - it has never let me down. It majors in sharpness and so complements FP4 perfectly. And incidentally, the Rodinal formulation is the world's oldest commercially available developer, currently in its 118th year of production. (Anyone got a bottle of the original? - bet it still works.)</p><div></div>

<p>Tri-X @ 250 in Rodinal. Good for low-contrast, cloudy days here in Oregon. Love that grain!</p>

<p>I like Diafine. It takes one of the parameters out of contension.</p>

<p>T-Max 100 in Microphen. The film is virtually grainless with dramatic tonality. The developer helps minimizes the difficulties of using TMX in bright sunlight. Not my first choice for all purpose b&w photography, but I like it for landscapes.</p>

<p>D-23. Simple to mix, and effective for bringing out small details. Works well with a variety of negatives.</p>

<p>Used in 1+3 dilutions, 1L of D-23 stock is also economical. The 1+3 also yields convenient times for warmer temperature adjustments. It's one of those that made me think, "Why did someone try to improve upon this?"</p>

<p>My favourite film for landscape used to be Kodak technical pan -now discontinued but a replacement and a near copy of this film is available from silverprint ,like tech pan it has an ASA rating of 25 it is an extremely fine grained film and each roll is suplied with a bottle of developer -if only I can remember the name of it! but if you visit silverprints websit and look under the film section you will spot it no problem.<br>

Tech Pan was originaly formulated for scientific and medical work but landscapers soon hooked on to its fine grain and many said it gave medium format quality from a 35mm film - quite a contrasty film so technidol was the developer that worked best and I presume that the new films developer is also a copy of technidol,<br>

I was anoyed when kodak discontinued it and I have ordered some of the copy from silverprint who say its characteristics are virtualy the same. because of the slow film speed and small apetures req for landscape a tripod is a must! as you are almost certainly going to be into timed exposures.</p>

<p>Hi again with regarde to my previouse post the name of the film is:</p>

<h3>Adox CMS 20 check out the specification at silverprint.co.uk<br /></h3>

<p>Lots of interesting choices! I used to like APX 25 in Rodinal, and APX 100 in Rodinal or P'cat HD, but alas, APX films are no more. Efke 25 (if you can deal with the imperfections), in P'Cat HD is good. Also good is FP-4 in P'Cat.</p>

<p>Tri-X in PMK Pyro.</p>

<p>Fuji Acros and XTOL. Why? Low reciprocity failure corrections, great tonality, fine grain, and excellent sharpness.</p>

<p>If you can give a photo example as Chris did. Do not forget about infrared films.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Fuji Acros with Rodinal and Xtol combination with stand development. Expose for the highlights and develop with stand development for the shadow areas, and you'll get a lot of really fine detail with nuances you otherwise would net get, even with low contrast images like this one.</p><div></div>

<p>HP5 with ID11 at 1+3 because that is what I am used to.<br>

Everybody seems to have a different suggestion. You will just have to search until you find the one that suits you.<br>

There are no short cuts.</p>

<p>Format can play a role. For landscapes 35mm tmax 100 is up there with the best because of it's low grain and superb sharpness. I just started shooting 4x5 and am using HP5+. Not my favorite in 35 but on big film I find that it being a true 400 speed film it gives me the extra shutter speed I need. Even on a bright day like today I was shooting at 1/15 and F22 with a deep yellow filter. The grain won't be a factor at the size I print.</p>

<p>Michael Axel that's a beatiful shot.</p>

<p>Michael Ferron,<br>

I expose HP5 at 200 ASA who cares if there is grain? I like the result that I get.</p>

<p>Rollie ATP 1.1 here.</p>

<p>400 TMAX in Xtol 1:1. Sharp. Small, tight grain.</p>

<p>Tri-X (E.I. 200) in D-76 1:1, developed at 68F degrees for exactly 5 minutes, agitate the first 5 of every 30 seconds. Classic look.</p>

<p>Michael J Hoffman</p>

<p>When I was using medium format, Kodak Panatomic-X and Kodak HC-110. When I switched to 4X5 (20+ years ago), Kodak TRI-X and Kodak HC-110. Lately I have been experimenting with FP4+ and HC-110. I like the control and scale I can get from HC-110, very versatile. I find the FP4+ has finer grain in the sky and clouds (the tone is smooth, less mottling). </p>

<p>Paul</p>

<p>Norman says "I like the result that I get." That's all that matters Norman. I'll need to try it again in 35mm.</p>

<p>back in the day....it was Panatomic X in Microdol X....but seeing as that is no longer an option.....</p>

<p>....Tri-X in PMK Pyro....but HC110 is good in a pinch.</p>

<p>oh....by the way.....i'm talking medium format for those film developer combos. If it was 35mm film.....not really sure what I would use these days. but, in 35mm i think digital is actually the way to go....for film its medium format.</p>

<p>I just bought 3x 120 rolls for my Graflex 6x9 for try: Hp5+, Hp4 and Fuji Acros.<br />Will see the results and differences.</p>