Your favourite B&W film+developer for landscape and why.

Discussion in 'Black and White' started by piotr_stanislawski, Jun 19, 2009.

  1. I start with b&w photography and do not have experiences to share with my preffered films and developers yet. Share with yours and why it is your favourite.
     
  2. FP4 in Rodinal. I tried FP4 in Rodinal many years ago (about 15) and didn't like the results. That was my fault - my technique was off. So I went over to Delta 100, but recently I've come back to FP4 in Rodinal, rating it typically at 50 ASA and devving in Rodinal 1/50, 20C, 8.5 minutes.
    I've come to have a great respect for FP4. It is very sharp and has a 'gutsy' tonality - punchy midtones, yet subtle highlights and luminous shadows.
    Rodinal has been my developer of choice for 25 years. It is uniquely robust and reliable - it has never let me down. It majors in sharpness and so complements FP4 perfectly. And incidentally, the Rodinal formulation is the world's oldest commercially available developer, currently in its 118th year of production. (Anyone got a bottle of the original? - bet it still works.)
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  3. Tri-X @ 250 in Rodinal. Good for low-contrast, cloudy days here in Oregon. Love that grain!
     
  4. I like Diafine. It takes one of the parameters out of contension.
     
  5. T-Max 100 in Microphen. The film is virtually grainless with dramatic tonality. The developer helps minimizes the difficulties of using TMX in bright sunlight. Not my first choice for all purpose b&w photography, but I like it for landscapes.
     
  6. D-23. Simple to mix, and effective for bringing out small details. Works well with a variety of negatives.
    Used in 1+3 dilutions, 1L of D-23 stock is also economical. The 1+3 also yields convenient times for warmer temperature adjustments. It's one of those that made me think, "Why did someone try to improve upon this?"
     
  7. My favourite film for landscape used to be Kodak technical pan -now discontinued but a replacement and a near copy of this film is available from silverprint ,like tech pan it has an ASA rating of 25 it is an extremely fine grained film and each roll is suplied with a bottle of developer -if only I can remember the name of it! but if you visit silverprints websit and look under the film section you will spot it no problem.
    Tech Pan was originaly formulated for scientific and medical work but landscapers soon hooked on to its fine grain and many said it gave medium format quality from a 35mm film - quite a contrasty film so technidol was the developer that worked best and I presume that the new films developer is also a copy of technidol,
    I was anoyed when kodak discontinued it and I have ordered some of the copy from silverprint who say its characteristics are virtualy the same. because of the slow film speed and small apetures req for landscape a tripod is a must! as you are almost certainly going to be into timed exposures.
     
  8. Hi again with regarde to my previouse post the name of the film is:
    Adox CMS 20 check out the specification at silverprint.co.uk
     
  9. Lots of interesting choices! I used to like APX 25 in Rodinal, and APX 100 in Rodinal or P'cat HD, but alas, APX films are no more. Efke 25 (if you can deal with the imperfections), in P'Cat HD is good. Also good is FP-4 in P'Cat.
     
  10. Tri-X in PMK Pyro.
     
  11. Fuji Acros and XTOL. Why? Low reciprocity failure corrections, great tonality, fine grain, and excellent sharpness.
     
  12. If you can give a photo example as Chris did. Do not forget about infrared films.
     
  13. Fuji Acros with Rodinal and Xtol combination with stand development. Expose for the highlights and develop with stand development for the shadow areas, and you'll get a lot of really fine detail with nuances you otherwise would net get, even with low contrast images like this one.
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  14. HP5 with ID11 at 1+3 because that is what I am used to.
    Everybody seems to have a different suggestion. You will just have to search until you find the one that suits you.
    There are no short cuts.
     
  15. Format can play a role. For landscapes 35mm tmax 100 is up there with the best because of it's low grain and superb sharpness. I just started shooting 4x5 and am using HP5+. Not my favorite in 35 but on big film I find that it being a true 400 speed film it gives me the extra shutter speed I need. Even on a bright day like today I was shooting at 1/15 and F22 with a deep yellow filter. The grain won't be a factor at the size I print.
     
  16. Michael Axel that's a beatiful shot.
     
  17. Michael Ferron,
    I expose HP5 at 200 ASA who cares if there is grain? I like the result that I get.
     
  18. Rollie ATP 1.1 here.
     
  19. 400 TMAX in Xtol 1:1. Sharp. Small, tight grain.
     
  20. Tri-X (E.I. 200) in D-76 1:1, developed at 68F degrees for exactly 5 minutes, agitate the first 5 of every 30 seconds. Classic look.
    Michael J Hoffman
     
  21. When I was using medium format, Kodak Panatomic-X and Kodak HC-110. When I switched to 4X5 (20+ years ago), Kodak TRI-X and Kodak HC-110. Lately I have been experimenting with FP4+ and HC-110. I like the control and scale I can get from HC-110, very versatile. I find the FP4+ has finer grain in the sky and clouds (the tone is smooth, less mottling).
    Paul
     
  22. Norman says "I like the result that I get." That's all that matters Norman. I'll need to try it again in 35mm.
     
  23. back in the day....it was Panatomic X in Microdol X....but seeing as that is no longer an option.....
    ....Tri-X in PMK Pyro....but HC110 is good in a pinch.
     
  24. oh....by the way.....i'm talking medium format for those film developer combos. If it was 35mm film.....not really sure what I would use these days. but, in 35mm i think digital is actually the way to go....for film its medium format.
     
  25. I just bought 3x 120 rolls for my Graflex 6x9 for try: Hp5+, Hp4 and Fuji Acros.
    Will see the results and differences.
     
  26. Tri X in HC 110 with added sulphite. Gives roll film quality from 35mm
     
  27. Piotr, thanks for asking the question.
    Michael, stunning shot.
    D
     
  28. FP4+ in Prescysol. Just because I like it.
     
  29. Nothing beats the reliability of KODAK TMAX 100 and D76.
    www.johnreef.com
     
  30. >>>Bill Symmons Tri X in HC 110 with added sulphite. Gives roll film quality from 35mm<<<
    I've never heard of adding sulphine, but I'd like to hear more.
     
  31. Ilford Delta 100 or Fuji Acros in 510-Pyro because I like the results. Now get busy and find out what suits you!
     
  32. In 60's and 70's, Tri-X in microdol-X,
    Now HP5 in Ilford developer.
    Best regards,
    /Clay
     
  33. TMX (T-Max 100) in D-76 1:1 for 12 minutes (+ or - 10%). Formulary also makes some fantastic developers.
    Bruce
     
  34. KB 14 and Rodinol at 125/150 to one. consistant each run if a little soft for some folks. I also like diluted microfine and pan x or plus x. I have taken KB 14 up to 20x24 with great grain and contrast. I use all type of Resin and Plain paper Kodak and Illford
    Try it out to define your ASA and Range. I have also taken D76 on @ 1/4 up to 7 feet.
    Leon
     
  35. Tri-X in XTOL 1:1. 7 minutes at 75 F. Agitate 30 seconds in the first minute, and 10 sec every minute after that. I shoot it at 400 and get good shadow detail, but how you meter affects that along with how you rate it. You can only get XTOL in packages to make 5 liters, so I make a batch and put it up in completely full 250ml glass bottles. I always use it within 6 months and never have a problem. I think you will find the advantages of this combination are full film speed and minimum grain. You might prefer the tonality of an older developer like Rodinal. To emphasize what others have said, you have to pick some combinations and try them. I think it's fine to try a combination used by somebody whose work you love, but you might not get the same results because they may do other things differently. I do urge people to try working at 75 degrees unless they live some place really cool in the summer. It's much easier to warm up developer in a water bath than try to hit 68 degrees in the summer where I live.
     
  36. I really like Arista Premium 100 (rebranded Plus-X) in Microdol-X 1+3. It just has a unique look.
     
  37. Nobody else using Arista/Plus-X with Rodinal? It's a bit too soon since I've started doing my own B&W again (after a long post-college hiatus) to have formed strong opinions on film/developer combinations but I think it works quite well, and the Arista being half the cost of name brand films is certainly helpful these days...
    [​IMG]
     
  38. Kodak T-Max 100 and D-76 1:1. TMX has never let me down, and I do a lot of dusk shooting where the reciprocity is helpful.
     
  39. Fomapan 100 in Beutler
    [​IMG]
     
  40. Ilford all the way! Delta 100 when the light's available,rated at 100 in dd-x.Delta 400 in lower light,rated 400,500,800 and sometimes even 1600,all in dd-x.For long exposure night shots it's back to Delta 100,I've exposed it for up to an hour with great results.It's trial and error and personal preference.Have fun!
     
  41. 400 TMAX in Xtol 1:1 at 21°C, small grain
     
  42. man, seeing so many different combinations can make your head spin and confidence weak. i sue ilford delta 100 @50 or pan f+ @25 and develop in ddx or perceptol. but recently i used some d-76 thinking i was skimping because i was out of ddx and,well...we used d-76 in college over 20 years ago...can't be any good...hahaha. i was very surprised, especially with a roll of fp4.
    but, shooting the way i do, in deeps woods, almost all white water, waiting for "crappy wather" but good soft light...i really need to explore stand development.
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  43. Get an Easy available film, like Ilford HP5+ or kodak tri-X
    and an easy available developer and stick to it so that you get to know the combo inside out. Also use the film at box speed in the begining so that you know how it wil behave on standard use. Later you can start to experiment.
     
  44. IMHO, what's most important is staying with a film/developer combination to really unsersatnd behavior. Some folks seem to change weekly.
     
  45. Fuji Across in Rodinal 1+50 (12.5 min) works well for my landscape work.
    I more or less agree with Erwin & Robert: I try to limit myself to just a few films (across in rodinal for good light/tripod, delta3200 in microphen for handheld indoors). Want to start experimenting with IR as 3rd choice of film...but don't want to extend/change more...
     
  46. Lately, it's been Acros 100 (rated @ E.I. 80) in HC-110.
     
  47. EFKE 25 in Rodinal or the Dr5 process.
    Anthony
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