yet another lighting question...

I asked a question a few days ago about studio lighting and I got some amazing

answers so I was hoping I could get some great answers again.. I have been

trying to find the best studio lighting I can get for my studio on my budget..

I am a stay at home mom that does photography on the side.. I do mostly newborn

and small kids? I do my bigger fam shots on location? I was thinking that I

wanted strobes, but now I am not so sure? I can buy a lower quality strobe set,

that will last God only knows how long or a higher quality cool continuous

lighting set? I am working with some homemade studio lighting (2 clip on work

lights with daylight balanced bulbs and a piece of parchment paper to defuse

the light, and I am getting some amazing lighting since I use natural lighting

with it) ( I have 2 windows in my small studio) but I want more light so I can

do shots during all times of the day, and also do maternity shots (window

closed) I am thinking I want 2 continuous cool lights (not sure of the wattage

but I am think prob 200 watt a piece at least) I am thinking of shoot through

umbrellas to defuse the light.. What do yall think? I love my continuous

lighting I have now.. I just wish it was stronger? I love set ing it up and not

having to worry about if the kids moves to much this way or that way? I like

overall lighting.. (I hope I am making since..) plus I am worried with the 1-2

sec recharge time of the strobe I will miss a shot.. So my question is would u

rather have a higher quality continuous cool lighting system, or a lower

quality strobe? I know I will have to replace the bulbs more often, but I would

rather do that then have to buy all new equipment in a year? I have a VERY

small photography business.. Just 2-3 photo shoots a week (I want it this small

since I am a stay at home mom and I want to stay that way until my kids r in

school) now in the next few years I will do more and more photo shoots on

Saturday, but I am keeping it to just that one day since I have to do all the

developing while my princess is asleep? do any of yall know of any good brands

for continuous cool lighting? Is the wattage the same as if I had a strobe?

(would 400 watts work fine for lighting up a 10x10 room?) sorry there is so

many questions, the internet has so many different info out there and they

usualy do not match up..

here is a few pix from the lighting set up I have now..

 

not enough lighting for the backdrop..

<a href="http://s200.photobucket.com/albums/aa140/jesusaves03/?

action=view&current=IMG_4763_edited-4.jpg" target="_blank"><img

src="http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa140/jesusaves03/IMG_4763_edited-

4.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

but perfect for a black backdrop.. just need a hair light..

<a href="http://s200.photobucket.com/albums/aa140/jesusaves03/?

action=view&current=IMG_4488_edited-1.jpg" target="_blank"><img

src="http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa140/jesusaves03/IMG_4488_edited-

1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Nicole Everson

you want electronic flash.

 

The mid-range gear -- Alien Bees and other Paul C Buff gear, the cheaper Elinchrom, Dyna-Lite, Speedtron Brownline, Novatron, and Calumet gear -- is a worthwhile investment. Cheaper stuff Stuff like JTL, etc. is more iffy.

 

At a shutter speed of 1/60th second electronic flash is about 15 times more efficient at turning electrical energy into light than the best continuous light systems and at shutter speeds shorter than that the efficiency just goes way up. Most electronic flash systems have a real world motion stopping t0.1 flash duration of around 1/250 - 1/300th of a second at full power.

 

Tungsten and Fluorescent lighting also doesn't make optimum use of your cameras iamge gathering technology -- the CMOS or CCD chip you'll see people referring to - -and yields better and more consistent color.

Nicole,

 

The main problem with 'cool' (fluorescent) lighting is that it doesn't contain the full spectrum of colours. As a result, not all colours can reproduce accurately. Exactly how bad it is depends on the Color Rendition Index (CRI) which should be stated by the manufacturers and sometimes is.

 

Other people will jump in and say that TV studios use fluorescent lighting - yes they do, but their budget is probably bigger than yours and they pay to get very high CRI values that simply aren't available to people on amateur budgets.

 

The other big problem with all forms of continuous lighting is lack of controlability. This may not matter to you at the moment but hopefully you'll progress past shoot through umbrellas, and then it will matter to you.

 

Then of course we have the other well known problems, lack of power, the need to use high ISO settings and the effect that the bright light has on the subject. I wouldn't subject ANYONE to bright continuous lighting, let alone newborns.

 

To answer your question in a nutshell, I suggest that you get ONE good quality studio flash. Once you understand the principles of lighting you'll be amazed at what you can achieve with one flash. If you can't afford that and don't want to save up for it, get a budget brand such as Alien Bees, a lot of beginners swear by them.

 

And learn about lighting. We have a Lighting Themes section here that is well worth your careful study. Unfortunately, in the absence of any moderators on this forum, the section is in a bit of a mess but here is a list of the Lighting Themes. http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00BjHh

>>Is the wattage the same as if I had a strobe?

 

No, not nearly. You really really want electronic flash. Anything else is wasted money.

 

The 400 watt continuous would be vaguely the same power as a 400 watt second flash (not really, there are some serious ifs and buts about efficiency) IF AND ONLY IF the shutter speed were 1 second.

 

Because, the flash units are rated as watt seconds (like the kilowatt hours on your electric bill). If the 400 watt continuous light used a one second shutter speed, that would be the power rating of 400 watts x 1 second = 400 watt seconds. Which would compare to the 400 watt second flash, if the continuous lights used 1 second (ignoring that the flash is about 4 times more efficient converting electricity to light). Which can work well for motionless table top or product photography, but you cannot use 1 second for kids.

 

If the shutter speed were 1/100 second, then this would be the useful power of 400 x 1/100 = 4 watt seconds from the 400 watt continuous light. Which is not much, and which is why you must put the hot light very close (3 or 4 feet) and shoot at 1/30 second at f/2.8 with ISO 400 or more. The shutter speed simply decimates continuous lights. There is little left.

 

The flash duration is more like 1/1000 second, which is much faster than any shutter speed, and therefore, shutter speed is simply not a factor for flash. Repeat, shutter speed is not a factor for flash. The flash duration is finished long before the shutter finishes, and it really does not matter to the flash how much longer the shutter might stay open after the flash is finished. The longer shutter will however pick up more continuous ambient light in the room. Or with flash, we can use a fast shutter to block it out.

 

Look at http://www.alienbees.com for inexpensive but very good lights, which will last many years. Will NOT be wasted money. If in four years you knock one over and break it, they are in the USA and can fix it conveniently. These are used in manual flash mode, so the camera cannot meter them. You can meter them with a handheld flash meter.

 

Or if manual flash mode is no go for you, then camera flash like Nikon have their automatic remote wireless TTL flash system which the camera can meter. You could put a couple of them in remote umbrellas and shoot away, automatically. Like point and shoot, but TTL automatic wireless remote multiple flashes. Canon may have something like it, but I am only familiar with Nikon. Camera speedlights are less powerful than studio lights, perhaps they compare as about 60 to 80 watt seconds, but a couple of them would normally be enough power - and would be a jillion times stronger than the continuous lights.

Nicole,

check out ebay. you can get some good light (strobe) kits for 200.00-350.00. They usually come with 2-3 strobes, stands, umbrellas, softboxes, etc. They're great for a low budget and small area, like I have. Also try amvona.com. you can get some great deals if you have patients in there auctions. Blessing

Nicole, you want strobes, especially for shooting children. Think about a monolight, which are usually much less than a pack and head system. I'd go with a reputable name brand if you are working with paying clients. You do not want stuff that will fail on you or not be powerful enough while a client is waiting.

 

You could also go with a couple of speedlights, and use an umbrella clamp to attach them to lightstands with umpbrellas. Not as powerful as studio strobes, but cheaper, faster and easier to use than hot lights.

 

I second the advice to get one light to start and learn how to make magic with one. You'll be amazed at the results you can get with one light. Then add to your kit as necessary. Get yourself a light meter and get the book, Light, Science and Magic, too.

"if the continuous lights used 1 second (ignoring that the flash is about 4 times more efficient converting electricity to light)."

 

That isn't correct. The average electronic flash is about 20 times more efficient than a tungsten or Quartz-Halogen light and about 15 or 16 times more efficient than a fluorescent tube, watt to watt-second. In continuous light sources by far the largest slice of the energy pie is converted to heat not light.

Nicole

 

I agree with everyone, strobes are the way to go.

 

However everyone seems to be suggesting new equipment. There are lots of sets of older 500 to 800 w/s packs and lamps on ebay at pretty good prices. Normans, Speedotrons, Novatrons, lots others. These old packs are great, the various light modifiers are relatively inexpensive, the flash tubes generally don't cost much and they do the job.

 

I am just a hobbiest, and when I was learning studio shooting with film and no real instruction it was a slow process as your feedback was a week away. Digital has really helped me in the studio, just the ability to instantly see what I was doing, how changes to the lighting was effecting my shot.

 

You are a vary creative shooter, you would have a lot of fun with a $250 pack and a set of lights.

Thank you all for you help.. it has really helped.. And continue to give me more info if u have it.. I think I am going to go with the lower end strobes from ebay.. I know I can do one strobe and a reflector, but honestly that is not the way I want to go right now.. if I get a 400 dolor strobe set off of ebay, I can switch out the strobe heads and stands and such in time right? I am only going to by either a used set, or a new set that comes with a warranty, and can be repaired.. I think for my situation a low end strobe set will work just fine, and as I get more into it business wise I can upgrade..

*I think I am going to go with the lower end strobes from ebay*

 

Most of the cheap stuff on Ebay is cheap for a reason, it's total rubbish...

Inadequate range of adjustment, inconsistent power between shots, inconsistent colour between shots, slow recycling, useless modelling lamps and, worst of all, non-changeable reflectors that make it impossible to fit any type of modifier other than an umbrella.

 

Things are beginning to change, lighting equipment is coming in from China now that actually works, fitted with Japanese capacitors and German flash tubes, and some top manufacturers (which I'm not going to name) are getting their products made in China too, but the cheap and nasty stuff is as nasty as ever.

 

Save your money and get the real thing. it takes a lot of skill to get good results from poor equipment.

>>>That isn't correct. The average electronic flash is about 20 times more efficient than a tungsten or Quartz-Halogen light and about 15 or 16 times more efficient than a fluorescent tube, watt to watt-second. In continuous light sources by far the largest slice of the energy pie is converted to heat not light.

 

Suit yourself, but it is the 20x that is wrong. :) Am curious how do you compute that?

 

Large studio type incandescent lamps probably do not achieve 4% efficiency. Flash tubes might make 15%, which is my 4x. However, this is not clear cut, both do have many efficiency variables, esp voltage).

 

Efficacy (lumens/watt - not same term as efficiency) is about the same ratio as efficiency, perhaps 60 lm/watt for xenon, and 16 lm/watt for large incandescent... also about 4x.

 

Best references I can find quickly:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Incandescent_light_bulb (near bottom)

http://members.misty.com/don/contxe.html#e (page bottom)

 

Yes, the remainder of the power goes to heat.

 

Above is as regarding electrical efficiency, regarding light output.

 

But the above really is less important, because there is so much more to it than this simple efficiency computation.

 

Regarding the real world of photographer's practical considerations of usable light due to shutter speed. Even if by some magic able to give equal efficiencies and equal watt seconds, the difference in 1 second exposure (continuous watt seconds) and a reasonable or typical 1/125 second exposure (practical flash watt seconds) is 7 stops, or about 1/128 power, or less that 1% as "useful" (if magically otherwise equal watt seconds and efficiency were possible, which they are not).

 

Shutter speed decimation of continuous light is the overwhelming factor, regardless of efficiency.... the fact that the shutter might only be able to use 1/125 of the continuous light, but 100% of the flash light. If we are able to use 1 second shutter, we can be happy anyway. If we need 1/125 second, we are very much less happy with continuous.

 

If we could sync a faster shutter speed, there is even greater difference and advantage for flash. Many flashes are much faster than 1/1000 second (t.5, or about 1/330 t.1) - and yes, a few are slower too. For example speedlights at 1/16 power might be 1/10900 second (Nikons SB-800 specification, and it goes to 1/41600 second at 1/128 power). This is very real world usable to stop motion (in dim surroundings). No maybes about it, and due to their IGBT (thyristor-type) cutoff, t.5 and t.1 are essentially equal.

lol OMG ALL THIS MATH IS MAKING MY HEAD SPIN... LOL

*lol OMG ALL THIS MATH IS MAKING MY HEAD SPIN... LOL*

 

You don't need to understand the maths, all you need to know is why you should be

1. Using flash

2. Using a flash system that works

>>lol OMG ALL THIS MATH IS MAKING MY HEAD SPIN... LOL

 

Try this math then Nicole... you mentioned $400 on Ebay. Those have no return address, no phone number, no warranty, no brand name, no nothing except your money.

 

$450 will buy two brand new Alienbees B400 lights, 160 watt seconds each. One light will give f/5.6 at ten feet at ISO 100, but we typically use umbrellas much closer, normally easily f/11 at ISO 100. Plus we usually use two of them.

 

Plus $113 for two umbrellas and stands (many choices, but like this:)

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/250348-REG/Smith_Victor_401484_UK2_Umbrella_Kit_with.html

 

That totals under $600, but all these people have phone numbers and addresses and warranties. This is mainstream stuff with great reputations and jillions of very satisfied users. I have four of them myself. The Alienbees have a two year warranty (60 days no questions return if you wish), and they have fantastic service and can also repair them after that if ever needed. If there ever was a day and night difference, this is it.

 

There are many other good mainstream brands too, but you pay quite a lot more. AB has no middleman markup. Half the lights sold in the USA at Alienbees. They are an inexpensive brand, but are still excellent lights.

 

Again, be aware these are manual lights, and the camera cannot meter manual lights. You need a flash meter (another $250 or so). Need that with the Ebay lights too. And there will be more expense, background fabrics and stands, background and hair lights, etc.

 

Would you by a noname Chinese camera from Ebay? One with the principle virtue that it is cheap? The lights are a precision instrument too, needing great stability to give consistent exposures. When you trigger the shutter, we dont want to be worried if the flash is going to work right or not, or give the correct exposure or not.

I have only been looking at lights with a warranty.. this is one that I am seriously looking at.. what do u think?

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/880W-S-PHOTO-STUDIO-LIGHT-KIT-2-SOFTBOXES-BRITEK_W0QQitemZ200069801613QQihZ010QQcategoryZ30087QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem

 

This lighting kit comes with a 1 year Britek warranty (excluding bulbs and flash tubes) and 100% satisfaction guarantee. If for any reason you are not satisfied with this product you can return it within 25 days of your purchase. We will replace,credit or refund your money (less shipping cost) no questions asked. We have been in business since 1989, providing photographic equipment to advanced amateurs and professional photographers worldwide.

I have never used those, so what can I say? But the name is known as an el cheapo Ebay brand. From Taiwan I think, and generally only available on Ebay or online. Your link says: "These strobes sell for over $700 in professional camera stores." Can you find them in any such store? I never have. Not in stores with phone numbers. :)

 

I dont find any information to evaluate about the HS-2000 when searching google.com for Britek flash, but try searching for Alienbees. Then maybe the lightbulb ought to come on. :)

 

http://www.briteklight.com/hs2000.html

 

That appears to be more detailed specs (probably from another online seller).

 

Alienbees is also an online seller, but the big difference is that they are also the designer, the manufacturer, and the support, who answer the phone and choose to sell direct instead of through dealers.

Their guy, Paul C. Buff... I would not say odd ball, but he simply does things differently and has a long history of that. :) It seems a plus to me. Search google for Paul Buff too.

 

It is clear there are no raves on google about Britek.

 

Call me very biased (I am, I have four AB). There are many other good conventional brands, typically more expensive, and my opinion is that AB is THE inexpensive starter brand that you start with for a few years, from which you trade up after things are going well. Many users will never need any more. If you are doing work for hire, you want some reliable lights.

 

My reaction the Britek HS-2000 specs is this:

 

# 440 W/S (J) OUTPUT

 

Watt seconds is electrical input, lumens is output. Light output depends on efficient factors, not all brands are equal.

 

# 1, 1/2, 1/4 POWER

 

Can only turn them down two stops, three possible stops range. Alienbees go down to 1/32 power, 6 possible stops range. My AlienBees 320 watt second lights are not used above 1/8 power, often at 1/16 power, so if truly 440 w/s, the 1/4 power limit would seem a real usability problem. This is a biggie (if actually a true 440 watt seconds).

 

# GN 60/M, 200/FT, STANDARD REFLECTOR

 

Standard reflector not included, says $15 extra. It is required for umbrellas or direct. Alienbees includes it. AB has 80 or 50 degree reflectors. Umbrellas want 80 degrees. What is the angle spec on the Britek reflectors?

 

# SLAVE, SYNCH, TEST TRIGGER

# 1-3 SEC, CHARGING TIME

 

320 w/s Alienbees ($280 each) is 1 second maximum recycle, but all are faster at lower power, near instantaneous at 1/8 power. This is the time you wait for the next shot (at full power), even during that magic time when everything is going just perfect with your model.

 

# 100W HALOGEN LAMP G6.35 BASE, LIFE: 1000 HRS

 

Alienbees use a regular household 100 watt modeling lamp , which many people replace with a 150 watt halogen (obtained locally, Home Depot, Lowes, Target may have it from time to time) that costs maybe $3 instead of $20.

 

# M.O.D. LAMP ON/OFF

 

Alienbees modeling lamp can track and follow the output power range, or not, your choice.

 

# PRO TYPE PLUG IN UV QUARTZ FLASH TUBE

(LIFE: 10000 TIMES)

 

Alienbees manual page 6 http://www.paulcbuff.com/manuals/ABMANUAL(march2007).pdf says "well over 100,000 flashes" and "typically "over 250,000 flashes". Mine are three years old and still going fine. Replacement for $35 instead of $55. Also need to determine in advance where you can get them.

 

 

# CHANGEABLE REFLECTOR SYSTEM

# SLAVE SENSITIVITY: 15M (50FT).

# FLASH DURATION: 1/900 SEC

 

Alienbees is 1/3300 second duration for 320 watt/second model, and 1/6000 second for 160 w/s. These are t.5 numbers, this standard is time for light to fall to half (one stop down). For stopping action the t.1 numbers (falls to 1/10 output) are always about 3 times longer than the standard spec t.5 numbers.

 

Specs at http://alienbees.com/specs.html

 

Sorry, still day and night to me.

 

Not sure why I am stuck on this, but I think you want better lights.

 

If you must buy cheap lights, look at B&H for Interfit monolight kits, some of which are sold under the B&H Impact house brand, so I really mean those.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=search&A=search&Q=&ci=0&sb=bs%2Cupper%28ds%29&sq=asc&ac=&bsi=&bhs=t&ci=2251&shs=&at=Brand_Impact&basicSubmit=Submit+Query

These are cheap too, and I make no claims about quality, accuracy, and reliability (I dont know), but at least B&H is reputable and will stand behind them. They cannot be too bad or B&H would shed them.

 

ok yall ahve convenced me... I was looking at that brand and they were 469.00 +tax and shipping.. so I looked at the bees again and I saw that I could get 2 400 bees for 602.00 and that includes tax and shipping... so now I jsut need to convence my hubby to dubble my lighting budget.. lol but I think all of these specks will help a lot!!! thanks... hopefully in a few weeks I will be getting my new lighting and discovering why everyone saies they r so darn great!! lol

Sounds right to me. :) You will like it a lot. Two B400 are $450, so your $602 may be a package, but note that you can add and delete items at will in their shopping cart, and the same discount deal still applies. It need not be their exact package at all, just any combination you desire. For example, my own opinion is that their radio triggers are an unnecessary expense. But I use a tripod and a sync cable is no issue for me. I can see if you move around with the camera, the radio trigger would get rid of the wire.

 

If your camera does not have a PC connector for a sync cord, and if you intend to use a sync cord, then you will need a hot shoe PC adapter to add a PC connector to the camera. AB has one (HSA) on their Hardware/Parts page. Frankly, I prefer the Nikon AS-15 for that, because it has a clamp to hold it without slipping around.

 

And again, your camera meter will not meter manual flash, so it will be a different world. A good flash meter is a wonderful thing, used to adjust each light to the power level you want it to be, and to meter for the camera aperture too. Or there is one pretty good method without a flash meter, see the White Towel Method at http://super.nova.org/DPR/#Histogram

thanks I will check that out.. to be honest I have no clue what u r talking about.. lol I am very new to my DSLR (I bought it in jan.) I shoot in manual and everything but I do not understand all the lingo yet... I have a canon rebel XT so I am not sure how to tell if I have the corect thing or not.. lol it is going to take YEARS to understand all of this.. lol but it is so much fun learning.. lol

If you shoot in manual mode now, then that's good, you understand it and you won't have any problem with flash. Not true of everyone. :) Studio flash will still be manual. You do have to set the power level of your lights now, but you can set them any way you wish to give you what you want. You just cannot meter it without a new flash meter. You set your lights power level to match the aperture you want to use, more so than setting aperture to match the lights.

 

At ISO 100, some people prefer the B800 model, which is one stop stronger, however for those with a ISO 200 camera (which is me), the B800 is a bit much (and I ended up with two of each). You might have a preference if you generally want to shoot more up towards f/11 or with the lights more distant sometimes, then the B800 may be better for you at ISO 100. Of if the preference is shooting down towards f/5.6 or with the lights always more close, then the B400.

 

The AB specs page has a chart showing the maximum exposure (full power) that you might expect for a few standard situations. Read the fine print under the chart about the distance specifications. In practice, your lights will likely be about half of their distances, which is (roughly) 2 stops stronger. Each step of half, of Full to 1/2 to 1/4 to 1/8 power is one f/stop less light. For pictures like you posted, your lights should be close (to give the softest possible light) and I'd guess a B400 at not more than 1/2 power at f/8 at ISO 100 (and might as well use 1/200 second max shutter too). Depends on how close, but close is always good.

 

I dont think your camera has a PC sync connector for a flash sync cord (which you might or might not use). Not so many do anymore. The sync cord comes with the lights, but you have to have a place to plug it into the camera. The camera probably only has the hot shoe for flash, but you can add the HSA hot shoe adapter from AB to provide the PC sync cord connector on the camera. That is, if you will want to use the sync cord, but I assume there will be times you will. You could instead use hot shoe radio triggers instead (a purchase option not otherwise included in the box), to avoid having the wire attached to the camera. I like the sync cord, but I have the camera on a tripod, not moving around.

 

Hope that helps.

"I know I can do one strobe and a reflector, but honestly

that is not the way I want to go right now.. "

 

I think you are making a typical mistake with this logic. These guys are pros for a reason

and they are giving you really good advice. Even if you do purchase two lights, you are

really better off learning how to use one light properly before adding another. In addition,

a reflector becomes the second light when used properly, so if you buy two and a

reflector, you have a pretty effective setup. Personally I think one of the most important

things you need is a meter. Grab a secondhand Sekonic off Ebay and start learning about

ratios. Everyone wants to jump in and do 4 light setups from the get go, but I'm betting

everyone here started their education with one light. That's how they do it in photog

school, and it's for a good reason. I'm not telling you not to get the second light, but you

need to learn about the main before you start adding the fill.

 

I have access to as many lights as I want, but many times, I choose just one. One light

portraits:

I agree completely about the Sekonic flash meter, but am not sure I agree about the one light as an only solution. I know it is always said that we might learn more with one light, much like we are supposed to learn more doing math with a pencil instead of a calculator. :) I must not have learned so much because the reflector is harder, it has to be up pretty close, or else it is ineffective. It must be positioned just right (angles of reflection, etc), or else it is ineffective. And it is often a darker, more moody picture, not the same bright cheery look as two well placed lights.

 

The second light is simply easier to manage, more like a shotgun. We can aim it anyway we like, instead of how it has to be to get there. We can turn it up and place it back a little farther from the active kids that might get into it.

Wayne, I think you missed my point a little bit. When one knows nothing about light, or

ratios, or f stops, or anything else, it's best to start with one light. Even if Nicole never

uses one light with a client, I think she should -practice- with one on an object or person.

She should learn about how that one light affects objects based on its position, about how

power, f stops and distance are related, learn about shadows and texture, etc. THEN add

that second light and see how that changes things. Sure she could set two lights at the

same power and distance and fill the heck out of her subjects, but would that be

interesting lighting? If you don't know how the main affects the subject, you shouldn't

add the fill until you do.

 

Seriously, get the book I recommended, it will help a lot. Another great is the Master

Lighting Guide for Portrait Photographers.

Whatever you do stay away from the cheap garbage on eBay. If money is an issue, go to eBay but look for used professional equipment instead of the toys. I have four Novatron M240S monolights, for example, that cost about $100 each used on eBay. Recycling time of 1-2 on full power and quicker on low power (which is as fast as it gets with studio strobes). Add some $50 Bogen stands and $30 umbrellas from B&H and you're set. Start with one as suggested by others and build your way up. Also look at www.strobist.com to see how to use shoe-mount flashes like studio strobes. Not as much power and recycling isn't quick but a huge improvement over your homemade lights.

If the budget is as tight as it is, I don't think a flash meter should be a priority.

 

Nicole, you can chimp away and look at the histograms on your dSLR to check exposure.

 

I've always found 1 light to be too limiting for learning. Yes, it's good education to figure out everything with 1 light, but judging by the intended subjects, one of the primary looks in kid photography is the high key, white-on-white look, and I would say 2 lights are a must for that. You have also expressed interest in a hair light, and again, 2 lights are needed for that.