Yellowish image from FD 35 f/2 S.S.C

<p>The lens, FD 35 f/2 S.S.C was just bought from a camera shop recently. When I put it on my old F-1, I I notice the image has a yellow tone in the view finder. The seller told me it is normal for FD lenses since they are old. But I never notice that in my older FL 55.<br>

So I am here to ask, 1.) Is the seller telling me the truth? 2.) Should I give up this lens?<br>

Thank you,<br>

Kevin</p>

<p>Sounds like <a href="http://www.photo.net/canon-fd-camera-forum/00AveV">thorium</a> glass.</p>

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<p>The seller told me it is normal for FD lenses since they are old.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>No. Only those lenses with radioactive, rare earth thorium glass of which there are only a few. Most FD lenses do not yellow.<br>

Despite the color shift, these are still excellent optics. A month of direct exposure to sunlight will lighten the yellowing. Or, like me, you can reserve it for B&W shooting only. If the yellowing is only slight, you may be able to shoot color and just compensate for the cast in the scanning software. If you google around you'll find a lot of information on this issue.</p>

<p>I also had a 35mm Canon lens which was suffering from the same problem. Color pictures sucked, but it wasn't noticeable in black-and-white. I only paid $5 for the lens, so I wasn't overly concerned with the problem.</p>

<p>My 35mm f/2 has a concave front element. i bought it because it looks interesting. The minium apterure is f/16.Is there anyone who own this lens?</p>

 

<p>The yellowed glass will affect slides. With color neg film, the color correcting action of printing machines should take care of the color shift. If you shoot black-and-white, it's like using a yellow filter, boosting the contrast somewhat. If you scan your negs or slides, the scanning software, or imaging program, can be used to tweak the color balance. If you got this lens for $5, you got a deal. If you have the concave front element and an f16 minimum aperture (chrome nose or SSC), you've got the real thing. Here's a shot with this lens:<br>

<a href="http://www.dougnelsonphoto.com/-/dougnelsonphoto/detail.asp?photoID=366484&cat=9096">http://www.dougnelsonphoto.com/-/dougnelsonphoto/detail.asp?photoID=366484&cat=9096</a></p>

<p>Louis is correct, Kevin. The yellow cast is normal for that lens because of its thorium element. The lens also happens to be one of the finest, rarest, and most valuable lenses in the FD line-up.</p>

<p>If you're not planning on doing much B&W work, you might want sell it and pick up a New FD 35/2, which is also a very fine lens, and more suitable for colour photography. I did just that myself and couldn't be happier.</p>

<p>This lens has been discussed a lot-- the concave 35/2 chrome nose or SSC are considered excellent lenses for black and white work.</p>

<p>A couple of years ago I posted a comparison of my three 35s for color rendition: click <a href="00K6VZ">here</a>. The concave 35/2 has a readily visible color cast, probably in the ballpark of something like an 81B color balancing filter. It would be a pain for color slide work, but the experts say you can bleach out the 'browning' of the glass by exposing the lens to strong sunlight. I've never bothered.</p>

<p>Yes, I have it.<br>

This is may best FD lens. I use it only for B&W.<br>

I do not have any L lens...</p>

<p><em>It is a very good lens.</em> I use a pale blue colour correction filter (B+W KB1.5, etc) with mine if I need to shoot slide film, otherwise the colour has very little effect. Very few FD lenses have thoriated glass, so the seller is not particularly well-informed.</p>

<p>However, with some older lenses, <em>brownish </em> discolouration is often due to the decomposition, or physical failure, of the Canada balsam (a natural organic resin) that was used as cement between lens elements and, ultimately, lens separation can occur. That often makes the lens close to worthless for most purposes - other than artistic effect. Separation is a known problem with a few older FD lenses, I don't know about FL lenses.</p>

<p>Congrats ... you have a thoriated FD 35mm f2 Concave. That yellowish tint will make it great for Black and White. If you want to rid yourself of the tinge, you can run strong sunlight through the lens for prolonged periods. This worked on both my Canon 35mm f2 and my old 35mm f1.4 Nikkor. </p>

<p>I don't am not a frequent slide user, but I think I should get a Light blue filter for colour correction. I paid $90 for this lens. The lens is still in good shape, no element separation nor visible physical damages on the body.<br /> It is my first time to hear about thoriated lens present in newer FD series lens. I have a FL 58mm f/1.2, which is a well known Canon thoriated lens too. The FL does not turn all things to yellow as same as this one.<br>

I just shot a roll, and the film is still in printing process. I can't wait for it. I better resevered it for indoor shooting. How many FD lens is also using thoriated elements?</p>

<p>Alan C mentioned the discoloration seen on some FD 55mm f/1.2 SSC Asphericals, I once received one so browned it had a rootbeer bottle appearance.</p>

<p>DON`T expose the lens to UV rays to get rid of the yellow tinge! You don`t want to get rid of it. For black&white it`s priceless. You have all the advantages of a light yellow filter without the two extra glass/air surfaces and interferences. I never use the lens for slides though. Get a newer FD(n) 35/2 for that purpose!<br>

In my opinion the 35/2 concave chrome nose is one of the two best FD lenses (the other being the FDn 85/1.2).</p>

<p>I know the advatages of getting yellow for B&W, but I take colour photos mainly.Yellowish-brown lens does brother me. The newer FD 35/2 seems much expensive than the onw I am having.<br>

I like FD 85 f/1.2 too, but it is far too expensive for me. </p>

<p>I have the f2 Thorium lens and left it on my bedroom widow ledge for a couple of months and it did the trick, this is the best lens I own and is rarely off my camera.</p>

<p>I bought a pocket UV lamp for this trick but the lamp dead within an hour. The battery are hot wich I really don't know what happened. <br /> My place is raining through these several days. I don't know when the light will come.</p>

<p>P.S. don't forget to wear your lead lined boxer shorts, Thorium has a halflife of 70,000 years !</p>

<p>I exposed my 35/2 FD SSC (concave front element) to a CLF lamp with aluminum foil under it for several months continuously. By now it's fine even with slide film. I have four examples of the 35/New FD. This is also a fine lens but it is not as sturdy mehcanically as the older lens. The only fast slide film now available is the 400 speed Fujichrome. If I'm shooting in good enough light for 100 speed slide film I can always use a 35/2.8 New FD. I just picked up my third example of this lens. It went for about $8 on eBay and is a very decent performer. </p>

<p>Kevin, you are a lucky man; I'd been hunting for this lens all over the place.</p>