Yashica FX-3 Super 2000 compatible Body

Discussion in 'Classic Manual Cameras' started by behosam, Jul 3, 2018.

  1. Hi All,
    My dad has an old camera (Yashica FX-3 Super 2000) that he really loves, and wanted to upgrade without loosing all the accessories/lenses he has for it. Is there a newer camera body that would have some of the new features and would still work with the lenses from his old Yashica FX-3 Super 2000 camera?

    Thanks in advance
  2. Yes, the Contax S2!
    behosam and ben_hutcherson like this.
  3. Actually, whilst that previous post is correct, the S2 is rather expensive, and typically the Contax cameras are purchased to be able to use the very nice Carl Zeiss lenses that were made in the Contax/Yashica lens mount. I’ve not owned one, but I believe the Super 2000 was a well respected body, within the Yashica range. There were later ones, but they are all getting a bit long in the tooth now. I might look to a Contax RX or possibly an Contax Aria which were a few years later and might have more longevity. You would probably lose the ‘program’ mode function, as the later Contax bodies were made with slightly altered lenses to enable fancy metering, but the lenses will fit. If it were me, I’d spend the money on a Carl Zeiss lens to go with your super 2000.That would be a nice thing indeed.
  4. The FX-3 Super 2000 is so light that a Contax Carl Zeiss 45mm f 2.8 makes a nice addition. With that lens attached the camera will fit in a jacket pocket.
    The Aria would of course be a nice step up if you want some automation, but to get the benefit of shutter priority and program modes you'll need lenses with the MM designation (either Yashica or Contax). The Contax 139 is inexpensive, but most of them have had the leather covering wear off over the years.
  5. The 139 is a nice camera. You can get a new 'leatherette' cover for them through eBay.
  6. Likely for even less money than the 139 is the Yashica FX-D. Of course it has the same "peel away" covering as the Contax.
    stuart_pratt likes this.
  7. My 1983 version is still going strong, but like you say, the covering disintegrated decades ago!
  8. Thanks Stuart.
  9. Many good suggestions here. I think the FX D and its first cousin the Contax 139Q are both excellent choices. Most all of the noble cousins from Contax support the later MM lenses. This allows for a certain amount of program automation as well as flash TTL etc. So virtually any "Contax" SLRS would be step up. The cool thing about the "2000" is it has a manual shuitter... works without batteries. All the Contaxs need batteries other than the first mentioned S2. In fact many complain how expensive the S2 is.. and settle for the FX3 2000 so ..it's all about what you want.
    The RTS/II/III as well as the RX and the 159 etc will be compatible with any other lenses your father has only some of the automation might not be available. All MM lenses of course will work just fine on the 2000
    BTW... I just won an auction for this camera with an ML series 28mm for not a lot of money!! :)
  10. Another advantage of the FX-3 2000 is when the self timer is activated the mirror goes up rather than the instant before the shutter opens. This allows any mirror induced vibration (that might affect slower shutter speeds even on tripod) to dampen out. When I use my 2000 on tripod with 400 or 500 preset lenses it increases my number of sharp images when using speeds like 1/15 second or similar. Think of it as a "poor man's" mirror lock up.
  11. I thought most, if not all, cameras worked that way when you use the timer. Is that not so?
  12. I've mostly been a Nikon/Canon user, but the only cameras I own and use that do it are the Nikon FM and FE series cameras(along with the FA). I'd have to check the FG-it MIGHT but can't say for sure one way or another. Nikons with "real" full time MLU(single digit Fs, Nikkormats, the EL2) don't prefire.

    My Canon experience is primarily limited to R/FL/FD mount bodies, and I don't know for sure of any that do it. The only POSSIBILITY I can think of is the T-60, which on the same basic Cosina CT-1 chassis as both the FX-3 and the FM-10. I've never seen one in person, much less handled one, though, so can't say.
  13. The Cosina made match diode cameras (Yashica FX-3 Super 2000, Ricoh KR-5 Super II, Vivitar V50, Olympus OM 2000, and Nikon FM-10) as far as I know all offer that feature. I think the Konica TC also locks up mirror at start of self timer cycle. None of my Minolta gear (SRT, XE, and XD) do. Not sure about my Pentax MX, though, as I've never tried its self timer.
    If I had to guess regarding unfamiliar cameras I'd say that those where the self timer cycle begins by pressing the shutter release are more likely to lock mirror up at beginning than those that have a separate button to press by the self timer lever (like the Minoltas do)
  14. My TC is actually loaded at the moment(for the first time in several years) so I can't test it readily. I'll try to do so tomorrow.

    The Cosina-built T60 seems to have an electronic self timer, as there's a large LED on he front and no lever as is present on other Cosina CT-1 cameras, so I don't know about it. In any case, I've never used an MF Canon that has it(and the T60 is the only one I've never owned). Plenty of Canons, including the FT, FTb, TX, TLb, EF, and original F-1, use the "wind up lever" on the front for the self timer, and all activate it by pressing the shutter button(unlike on an F or F2). I suspect this is a deliberate omission as all Canons I know of with this style self timer(excluding the Pellix for obvious reasons) integrate MLU into the lever also-you push it toward the camera body for DOF preview(and stop down metering), and a small tab under is "clicked" one position to lock the camera in stop down mode and then "clicked" again to raise the mirror. The caveat with this system is that one must remember to set the self timer before locking up the mirror, although in use it becomes second nature.

    Also, I found one reference stating that the Nikon EL2 does prefire also. Both of mine are loaded, so I can't check(I seem to have a problem at the moment of a lot of loaded cameras...). I just checked the very similar Nikkormat EL and it does do it. I don't have an older Nikkormat handy(I have a few FTNs) but will check them also.
  15. My understanding is that this useful type of mirror pre-release is a common (but not universal) feature of mechanically timed, vertical travel, usually metal bladed shutters such as the Copal Square and its many later versions or derivatives. These do indeed typically start the timer by pressing the shutter release rather than a separate button. It's very unusual in cameras with horizontally travelling cloth blinds – in fact I can't think of any off-hand.
  16. Well the heritage of the SLR beginning with the Contax S and its followers have this (cough cough) feature too. If you are careful or just unsure etc, you can trip the mirror release without releasing the curtains. I can do this too with my Exaktas. Frankly I've never used this in this manner ...on purpose!
  17. The Canon EF doesn't do it, although it's only half mechanically timed :) (I forget where electronic speeds take over-if it's below 1/125 or 1 second). There again, though, pre-fire doesn't seem to be a feature that Canon particularly liked, and the EF also has full time, independent MLU.
  18. I take some of the blame for drifting away from the original post. I do think than an FX-D or 139 would work and not need the MM version of the C/Y mount to use all their functions. The Contax Aria or 167 would work in aperture priority or metered manual as far as I know. My point in adding more about the Yashica FX-3 Super 2000 that if it still works it's valuable back-up since it will function without a battery. If price and compactness are not an issue there's the Contax AX which by varying film plane distance will autofocus any C/Y lens (MM recommended).
  19. I wonder if that might be a usable rule of thumb.
  20. There's also the Yashica FX-103, which provides two program modes as well as aperture priority auto and manual, plus TTL dedicated flash and winder connections. It's a bit more basic than the Contaxes (and suffers from the same "leather" problems), but it doesn't need MM lenses for the program modes so all the OP's lenses for the FX-3 will work.

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