Yashica electro 35 dsn

<p>Just got this camera! I'm looking to poduce photos as seen on lomography.com</p>

<p>In regards to vignetting, i'm wondering how to enhance that effect on this camera?<br>

Also what films would you recomened?<br>

Can you add a fish eye lens onto this camera and where can these be purchased from? Plastics ons pref.<br>

Also under/over exposing, how does this effect the final image with this camera?</p>

<p>Very new to photogrpahy, i dont know much!</p>

<p>The GSN is designed to make sharp images, with no vignetting. So if you want the kind of blurry images that fit with the 'lomo' trend, you might be better off spending a lot more money on a brand-new Holga. They are garunteed not to make sharp images. And you also get the added bonus of random, unpredictable light leaks.</p>

<p>As understand it, the lomo trend is a derivitave sort of pop culture marketing phenomenon. If you want a really retro 1950s look, then get a 1950s box camera for 4-5 bucks. You might have fun with it .....and your blurry photos will be much more authentic :)</p>

<p>Do You mean Yashica <strong>GSN</strong>?<br /><strong>Well, Yashica GSN is a great camera with excellent lens. It's not camera for Lomography, it would be like using vintage Jaguar XJ for a cab...</strong><br />Probably You need cheap camera with plastic lens, that You can at thrift store in the box.<br />Lomography is not only a crappy lens, most of all it's about cross processing (google will help).<br />All the best for You, and keep Yashica for pictures where the Quality is needed. I am using Yashica with Fuji Reala (Color) or Ilford XP2 (B&W) with great results.<br />M.S.</p>

<p>Thanks both for your responses. If you have any gallerys with top yashica electro photos, it may inspire me!!!</p>

<p> I had this camera for a while. I still don't remember why I sold it... Maybe because it was difficult to control the shutter speed (changing the ASA setting is the only way) Here are poor scans, the lens on this camera is really a gem<br>

http://www.photo.net/photo/5461789<br>

http://www.photo.net/photo/5466089<br>

http://www.photo.net/photo/5705989<br>

http://www.photo.net/photo/7727372</p>

<p>There are a number of cheapie plastic 35MM "SLR" cameras out there recently. They have a lead weight in the base to make them feel like quality, but are really SH**. They have names like Cannon, Benz-Gant, Nekon, Olympic. You get the picture--pure scam-cams. I'll bet you can get some real Lomographic pics from any of these</p>

<p>Here You can find shots from my GSN loaded with Reala.<br /><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/harlemshuffle/tags/yashicagsn/">http://www.flickr.com/photos/harlemshuffle/tags/yashicagsn/</a><br>

And <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/harlemshuffle/tags/gsn/">http://www.flickr.com/photos/harlemshuffle/tags/gsn/</a><br />You are welcome to see all my gallery, note that I am using many different film cameras :)<br />M.S.</p><div></div>

The GSN users manual mentions auxilliary lenses. It's possible these may offer some of the (lack of) quality you want.

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<p>There are a number of cheapie plastic 35MM "SLR" cameras out there recently.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I have both a Yashica Electro 35 GS and an Olympia GM8426 fake SLR. Here is a sample image from the Electro:<br>

<a href="http://www.pbase.com/maderik/image/115071224/original.jpg">http://www.pbase.com/maderik/image/115071224/original.jpg</a><br /><br />and one from the Olympia:<br>

<a href="http://www.pbase.com/maderik/image/127202141/original.jpg">http://www.pbase.com/maderik/image/127202141/original.jpg</a><br /><br /><br>

Yes, they are a wee bit different. Neither vignettes - if I want this effect I use the Lens Correction filter in PS.</p>

 

<p>Wow, that Olympia GM8426 is really crappy! I want one! Can my 5DII take pictures like that?</p>

<p>I apologise for not knowing S*** about photography. - I posted this forum for advice not to be told that the look I was aiming for is crappy and being questioned on why i would want that. As I said I knew NOTHING about this camera. Now knowing what its particular use is, I will not aim for the lomography look now. We all have a 'personal taste', I think its unfair for mine to looked down upon.</p>

<p>So now if you have ntyhing useful about this camera. Tips on its fault, what type of films work best, where to purchase add ons and anything you think should be known about this camera then go ahead. But please don't put my interests down.</p>

<p>You can always get filters to achieve the desired effects, such as possibly a soft-focus filter. I commented on the availability of the auxiliary lenses on your other post. I am pretty sure that would also add to the desired effect.<br />Many people love these cameras, I for one have owned about 8 of them at one time or another to include just about every version and, can only say that I am done with them. Too many age related problems, broken wiring, sticking shutters, rotted (so-called) pad of death, tedious adjustments, the list goes on. IMO they were a poorly designed camera as compared to many of the fixed lens rangefinders of that era, like the Konica Auto S2 or the Canonet QL17 GIII (any of the Canonets for that matter). If you are willing to spend the money or, like me, are willling to attempt the repairs yourself (or just get really lucky and get a good one) they do have very sharp lenses and can take very good pictures when functioning properly.</p>

<p>Lomography is hot button issue among classic camera aficionados; sorry you stepped into it. Part of the problem is that the Electro is not well suited for common lomographic-type effects - it can be done but takes a lot more effort. So do you want to learn to use the Electro for what it's designed for (e.g. sharp photos with DOF control and/or exposures up to 30s) or how to make it do other things?</p>

<p>If you want to explore optical effects, the Electro takes common 55mm screw in filters. There is a huge variety of such filters: a search for "55mm filter" at B&H returns over 500 results. The issues using filters on the Electro are that neither the metering nor the viewfinder will show any effect from the filter. So if you are using a filter that changes the amount of light, you will have to manually adjust the exposure. (Other cameras, including later Yashicas, put the metering cell inside the filter ring just for this reason.) Similarly, when using a fisheye adapter you will have to just guess on the field of view. Large filters may even obstruct the view you have. (This is why the inexpensive SLR eventually decimated the mid-level RF market: ability to see the effects of filters and lenses.)</p>

<p>It's hard to recommend a film without knowing what you want to do and what resources you have available. With it's fast lens and stepless shutter, the Electro can handle anything from an ultra-slow ISO 25 ultra-fine grain B&W to ISO 800 color for available light. If you want to experiment with B&W films, the easiest to use is Kodak BW400CN or Ilford XP-2 which can be processed in the same equipment by any local lab that does color film. The effects of over/under exposure depend on the film and not the camera. The auto-exposure on this camera is pretty good so it's not a big issue.</p>

<p>BTW, my own experiences with Electros is that they are neither better or worse in reliability than the Konica S2 or Canonet GL's - but they are more common and perhaps less valued and thus more abused. All of these cameras are pushing or past 40yo and condition will vary depending on how they used, maintained and stored. </p>