xtending chemistry shelf life

<p>I keep my film in the fridge...should I keep my developers/fixer etc in the fridge...will it help extend the life of opened but unmixed liquid concentrates (ilfosol -3, dd-x) , will it help with mixed powders (xtol). I had a slight yellow tinge to some ilfosol that had only been opened for about 3 weeks...didn't know if it was bad, but didn't use it just in case.</p>

<p>Putting liquid chemicals in a frig is not good. It can cause participates to fall out and not redissolve. My Xtol sometimes seems yellow when I mix it up but clears in a few hours. I keep all liquid concentrates in a cabinet under my sink and never have had a problem. Open bottle of HC-110 lasted over a year Rodinal over 2.</p>

<p>Thanks, Larry...I appreciate your reply....I guess I'll just have to buy more film to keep the fridge full!</p>

<p>You can do like me. Get a separate freezer just for the film and keep beer in the frige. :-)<br>

You are very welcome.</p>

<p>With developers, the enemy is oxygen more so than warm temperatures. Liquid concentrates as Larry mentioned generally have long shelf lives anyway. For those developers that seem to oxidize faster, try separating them into smaller containers that can be sealed. Also, another trick is to put glass marbles into the container to bring the level back as close to the top as possible. I don't think you would find that necessary with fixing solutions as they will likely be exhausted long before exposure to air would do them harm. <br>

FWIW, even though HC110 and Rodinal have very long shelf lives, I decant it into smaller containers anyway, mainly for convenience. The developer that I used that really seemed to go bad quickly if not separated into smaller containers was Paterson FX-39. I would divide it and use marbles to get better shelf life. Not an issue now since no one in the USA seems to carry it anymore.</p>

<p>And the funny thing is it was made in the U.S.A. for the longest time in the same place Clayton was being made. Yes Mike I break my Xtol down to one liter bottles filled to the brim. I have used the marbles too but I cave that up as you have to clean and boil them.</p>

<p> As for breaking down concentrates HC-110 and Rodinal I have broken them down into cough medicine bottles. Now things like TMAX developer I find they don't work break down very well into smaller bottles as as soon as you break the seal they seem to start losing life.</p>

<p>Rodinal is a special case. I asked about the longevity of Rodinal a few months ago. The concensus is it lasts "forever". Here is a link to the thread:<br>

<a href="00YGF4">http://www.photo.net/black-and-white-photo-film-processing-forum/00YGF4</a></p>

 

<p>HC-110 is not forever but it is close. :-) And breaking it down into smaller bottles with narrower tops might make it close. :-)</p>

<p>Keep your chemicals at room temperature (~20C). I did the marbles thing a long time ago and it got annoying. Butane gas (BBQ lighter) works well to keep oxygen from photo chems.</p>

<p>Seems some Cheap Butane has oil in it if it comes from China so check that. Same with using any canned air/gas. there are no regulations if it is not for human consumption.</p>

<p>I put D76 in small bottles and refrigerated them. Not good as the salts settled to the bottom. Acufine on the other hand looks fine.</p>

<p>I have had the same acufine in a gallon jug for 2 years now. I replenish it and the replenisher is also as old. I add as directed but if I don't use it in a time I just withdraw some and put replenisher in it to yhe top of the lid. </p>

<p> I just squeeze the replenisher jug to keep the o2 out. </p>

<p>marbles are heavy,hard to control,squeezy bottles leak air - butane is cheap and handy.<br>

Refrigeration is problematic. Looks like butane wins.</p>

<p>If the butane is pure. Lately it seems to have oil in it. Stuff from China.</p>

<p>Tetenal has Protectan, a mixture of Argon and Butane.<br>

About the lifetime of (Agfa) Rodinal: Indeed forever. Due to the (HD) Silar plastic bottle you do not need to keep it on glass. After about 3 years it will form some crystals which is normal. In about 5 years the solution has gone from Yellow to Brown to almost Black. But it doesn't matter, it will still work.<br>

The fact that HC-110 keeps so long is that it doesn't contain water. For HC-110 it's a good idea to keep it in smaller glass bottles. In this way you will have the longest lifetime because it won't attract water/air which oxydize the developer.</p>

<p>About the temperature 10-15C is ideal for keeping developers, fixer. The fridge is too cold for most of them. Then crystals are formed and for some of them it's difficult to get them back into the solution.</p>

 

<p>I agree with you Larry but only if it is maintained as a concentrate. The minute you dilute it, it has a shelf life.</p>

<p>Lynn </p>

<p>Lynn what post are we talking about?</p>