Wrecked IR

OK, so I shot some Kodak HIE, rated at 50ASA using an 89B Wratten gel filter. Metered before the filter.

Everthing seemed pretty normal, until I processed it. Edges are exposed, and the whole roll is WAY

overexposed. Totally un-usable. I use my Canon FD system, D-76 straight for 71/2 min@69?. My only

question is; is the jobo tank safe? I used the small 2 reel unit and agitated by hand. Opened and loaded

as well as unloaded the camera in the darkroom. I know, it sounds like it should be perfect. Any ideas?

Thanks.

It's been some time since I processed Kodak IR film, but I do recall that there is an issue with plastic tanks. My suggestion is that you do everything identically with the first time, except use a metal tank. Since your Canon FD system will have some years on it, make sure all seals are in good shape. Your time and temperatures seem logical, as does your EI. The curling of the film drove me nuts. Good luck. Jim

Not all plastic tanks are bad. I've processed a lot of IR film in plastic tanks (not Jobo though) and never had any sort of problems with the film fogging, but in theory it's possible I guess. I know that some people do use Jobo plastic tanks with no problem, but I guess all Jobo tanks may not be the same. I'd be very surprised if they passed IR though. Very surprised.

 

Your exposure should be ballpark OK (within a stop anyway), but even if it were way off, the edges shouldn't fog. Development sound about right too.

 

Maybe the film was bad. Was it fresh? Had it ever gotten hot?

 

See also http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=002aVR&tag=

did you meter through the filter? That could be it. When I shoot HIE I set my meter to 400iso and meter through a red 25

I may be totally wrong, but I heard certain Canon cameras are unable to use IR films. I have only shot IR in Nikon F3's.

Robert, I know that w/ pro digital cam it doesn't work well but how a regular slr canon 35mm couldn't work with IR... The lens is coated anti IR? I used my Nikon Fe2 and had good result with the same developer than Gary but hand developed for almost the same time and my neg were really nice... Did you bracketed Gary?

 

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I've had great luck with Patterson plastic tanks.

 

Everything sounds good except for the "rated at 50 ASA". I would suggest ignoring ASA / iso / any meter and simply shoot f8 1/125th with the 89B. Bracket some. I always use a 25A and shoot f8 @ 1/250th. That always works for me. I'm guessing the 89B needs another stop, therefore suggest bracketing and taking notes.

 

I know the concept of not using a light meter and replacing it with a consistent aperture / shutter speed is hard for some to swallow. But it works much better.

 

Kodak has a great tech pub on HIE. I suggest downloading and reading it. Especially the part that tells you why there is no such thing as an ISO for HIE and why your meter won't work right.

the new canon EOS series, ie Elan, Rebel, EOS1 series are unuseable because they advance frames by counting sprocket holes with an IR light, the old FD systems should be useable provided the camera is mechanical advance.

I hate to see incorrect advice given. Yes the FD series has no issue with fogging the sproket holes. Yes the EOS series has an IR sproket counter but to call it unusable for infrared film is not correct. How many of us here when printing an image include the sproket holes in our final prints? I do not recall printing one image with the sproket holes in the image. So what does it matter if the sproket area is fogged? Too much is made of this issue.

 

You metering sounds right with ISO 50 without the filter. But you will find HIE is more of an art than science. My best advice is to practice and refine your process. Next time try metering at ISO 200 without the filter and see what happens since your first roll was overexposed.

 

I shoot through a Hoya R72 filter and set the meter to ISO 400, metering through the filter. My meter seems pretty accurate this way but everyone is not so lucky. If I am shooting in heavy vegetation, I will back the ISO setting off to 800 ot 1600 or otherwise I end up with bullet-proof negatives.

I've had success with rating it at 400 and metering through a deep red (#29) filter.

 

Russ<div></div>

You should be at 1/250 at 6.3 for summer sun. My cameras are set to EI 800 and I meter thru the filter, 89 b. Never found a camera or hand meter with the filter in front of the cell where this did not work. The cells are over sensitive to IR, hence the inflated EI.

To be honest, I no longer bracket exposures or even meter in the sun.

1/250 6.3 is it. Cloud in front of sun 1/125 6.3. Deep shade, use the meter.

 

If you meter thru a filter, don`t meter a tree or grass that is supposed to come out white just as you do not meter snow and expect it white. You get grey snow.

 

 

I take it you metered EI 50 and added the filter without any further compensation. Don`t put addition correction on top of 50. Use whatever EI makes it come to 1/250 at 6.3 or 5.6.

 

If the whole roll has fog, you either let the leader get light and it light piped the whole roll or it was exposed in your darkroom. Don`t even open the can in light. The Jobo is fine for IR. Load/unload camera in total darkness.