Workflow: Giving Digital Images to Clients

Discussion in 'Wedding and Event' started by chimera_h, Jun 13, 2009.

  1. I posted this in another forum, but no responses, so I thought I'd try here.
    What is your process for saving images for print?
    I have a new computer where I am having to click on "Convert to profilfe..RGB-sRGB" before posting on the web. Otherwise, the image quality is awful. However, I'm wondering what I need to do to save these images for print.
    On my old computer everything was set and I just saved the image as a JPeg. How should I save the digital files so a client can print their images from any company?
  2. Workflow:
  3. What image software are you using? The age of your computer has nothing to do with your workflow for outputting digital files for printing.
    However, in general you would want to save as a jpeg at 300 dpi for printing. Outputting for the web usually gives you a 72 dpi file; not so great for printing. Whether you size to specific print dimensions depends on what you agreed to provide your clients. For example, if providing a file for a 4x6 print, you would size the jpeg to 1800 pixels on the long side at 300 dpi.
  4. Give it too them in sRGB color space and jpeg format as that is what photo printers use.
    Give them one full size file of each image and let them or their printer resize for required output. Use the least compression or greatest quality your program will allow.
  5. Thanks. I edit in CS3...completely forgot to share that. I just can't figure out if I have to Convert every single image.
  6. Also, I edit in 8 bit and only because that seemed to be the default. Not sure if that makes a difference.
    Do I need to tick "ICC color profile" upon saving as a Jpeg?
    Thanks again.
  7. "Also, I edit in 8 bit and only because that seemed to be the default"

    Makes a difference. A lot of detail is lost.
  8. For CS3:
    1. Open your RAW files in 16 bit mode. (See bottom left of ACR dialog).
    2. Edit in 16 bit mode only.
    3. Save your edited files as PSD's with layer info intact. That way you can make changes later without starting from scratch.
    4. Make a batch action to save your PSD files as hi-res JPGS for the client - suggest you include 'convert to 8 bit', 'save as JPG', 'include ICC profile'.
    5. Make a similar batch action to save your PSD files as lo-res versions - use 'image resize', 'save for web' with 'include ICC profile' checked.
    BTW - I'm assuming you know how to record and run batch actions. But if you don't, then you're probably ill-prepared for doing any kind of post-processing in Photoshop. There is too much effort if you do everything manually. If you need help get a book on Photoshop and read it before going any further.
  9. I would just add to Neil's point (2) - I do any cloning last, after converting to 8 bit mode.
  10. What Neil says pretty much.
    I am guessing your new computer is set to adobeRGB 1998 or something. If you work in sRGB and don't need the extra headroom of color gamut (range), then switching your cameras, computer (photoshop/LR2/software), and anything else you edit with to sRGB will work well.
    The web is typically seen in sRGB, so an adobeRGB color space shows up flat and with shifted colors. I learned that about 5 years ago on this very forum.
  11. Thanks so much everyone! I appreciate the help! I'll do exactly what was suggested above.
  12. If you didn't have color profile conflicts before, I'm assuming that your camera's setting are set for sRGB and that your current software isn't. If somehow your camera's in a different mode, then set it accordingly. And if you're working with Photoshop (or some image program), go to Edit > Color Settings (in Photoshop, in other priograms, find that equivalent) and in the pulldown menu for RGB, select the sRGB option. Then between your camera and your software, everything will be the same color profile and you shouldn't get any warnings to the contrary.

    As for 8 bit to 16 bit, they have to be 8 bit to be made into JPGs, and I know there's way more color variants available per hue for 16 bit, but for the life of me, I can't see any practical difference.
  13. I would just add to Neil's point (2) - I do any cloning last, after converting to 8 bit mode.​
    Lindsay, why do you do cloning only in 8bit? what's wrong with 16bit?

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