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Wimberley Arca-Swiss Style Plates, Clamps and Micro-Nikkors.


david_h._hartman

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I think the time has come to put shoes on the feet of some of my

Nikkors. The candidates are the AF 70~180/4.5~5.6D ED Micro, 200/4.0

IF AI Micro, 300/4.5 ED-IF AI (often used as a macro with PN-11

and PK-13) and AF 80~200/2.8D ED. Ill probably have to

start with two plates and one clamp so the macro lenses are most

important.<br>

<br>

I think I like the idea of using the plate and clamp as a micro

slider.<br>

<br>

I like the idea of double safety stops for use with macro lenses.<br>

<br>

The Wimberley plates are designed to accept Kirk Enterprises

flash brackets of which I have the FB-9 and FB-10 Macro

Flashbrackets.<br>

<br>

Which plate and champ do you recommend for the lenses listed?<br>

<br>

Any thoughts or suggestions?<br>

<br>

Thanks!<br>

<br>

Dave.

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Hi David,<p>I'm trying to use a crippled browser from my hotel room in Scottsdale, AZ, so please bear with me. I use the Wimberley clamp and the smallest flat Wimberley plate for my 70-180 macro zoom. I have also had a machinist make a custom block for my PN-11, so that when the PN-11 is mounted on this block, the bottom of the Arca Swiss plates form one contiguous surface to serve as a macro slider. Wimberley safety stops front and back prevent the rig from sliding out of the clamp while adjusting focus.<p>I would paste a link for you showing the setup, but I can't seem to get any such function on this hotel browser. If you look up my review of the Nikon 70-180 lens in the ezshop section of photo.net (product id=44), then click on the link "Camera & Lens", you'll see my setup.<p>I highly recommend the Wimberley system, as it prevents having an expensive macro lens slide out of the clamp onto the hard nasty ground! This is a case where acquisition IS good!
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Good start, but you might be better off with a 2-d macro rail.

 

I suggest this because I'm much happier using a Panagor 2-d than I was with the 1-d Novoflex Castel it replaced. Adorama sells a 2-d rail so much like the Panagor that I suspect the two come from the same machine shop. Also you might be happier with a geared rail than with a slider.

 

Cheers,

 

Dan

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Robert,

 

Which clamp do you recommend and why? I�m leaning towards the C-30.

 

Thanks!

 

---

 

Dan,

 

I haven�t been able to find the Panagor 2-d slider. Can you give me a link? I checked Adorama and found used products of that name but no slider.

 

Ok, I just reread your post. I'll try again. If you think of the name that would help.

 

Thanks!

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David, look at this:

 

http://www.adorama.com/catalog.tpl?op=details&sid=1068469513391428&sku=MCFRS

 

It is badged Adorama, seems to be what I bought used badged Panagor.

 

FWIW, I do most of my macro work with flash. Out-and-about with a 105/2.8 AIS I shoot handheld. But with my little Speed Graphic, handheld is impossible so I use a tripod with the rail. I like it a lot.

 

Cheers,

 

Dan

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Hi David,<p>For the 70-180mm lens, I obtained the Wimberley P-10 plate ($52). I wanted the anti-twist nubs. I had previously had a bad experience with the Bogen QR plates, in which the lens almost twisted itself off the plate. Thus, anti-twist is a critical feature with these lenses. I did call Wimberley first to verify that this was the recommended plate for this lens (it is).<p>I went with the C-10 clamp ($79.00). Initially, I was tempted by the longer length of the C-30, but when you actually try these extra long clamps out, they are not as nice as you would think. First, once clamped down, the standard C-10 is immensely strong. I don't think the C-30 is any stronger, as it is the same screw mechanism that does the locking. Second, the longer clamp can run right into your motor drive, if you're overly zealous in sliding the lens forward, or let go when the clamp is slightly loose. The shorter clamp clears my F3+MD-4. Third, if you use the safety stops, the clamp has to be opened wide enough for the entire plate to fall into the jaws, then tightened down. Trying to get 2.5" of plate into the clamp jaws is enough annoyance for me. Trying to get 4" of plate into the jaws is a recipie for insanity. Last, I'm a real cheapskate, so I use whatever will do the job at the least cost. The clamp and plate together cost me around $140 when S&H is tallied up.
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Thanks for the help guys. I�m going to go with the Wimberley Arca-Swiss style C-10, P-10 and one of the longer plates.

 

I think I�ve seen the same 2-D slider locally under a different name and I'll check it out. I�ve got a slider but if that one is more rigid than the one I have I may get a new slider and sell the one I have. I book marked the Adorama page. I think the he slider I have may be more prone to vibrations.

 

All the best,

 

Dave.

 

---

 

Dan,

 

I had a little Century Graphic once with an 101/3.5 Commercial Ektar. The lens even had a bubble! I had a 57 x 82mm RH8 back and rigged a Nikonos (aerial finder?) for hand holding. I mostly use the camera on a tripod. I wish I�d never sold it.

 

Regards,

 

Dave.

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Dave Hartman wandered off topic thusly: " I had a little Century Graphic once with an 101/3.5 Commercial Ektar. The lens even had a bubble! I had a 57 x 82mm RH8 back and rigged a Nikonos (aerial finder?) for hand holding. I mostly use the camera on a tripod. I wish I�d never sold it."

 

101/3.5 Commercial Ektar. Must have been a long time ago, I don't think there is such a thing.

 

More seriously, when I use good lenses on my 2x3 Graphics I get better pictures than I can possibly make with my Nikon gear. Yes, Graphics have limitations, but where they can be used 2x3 beats 24x36. There's no comparison.

 

Used 2x3 Graphics are still available and prices seem to be falling. If you really wanted to, you could get a Century or a 2x3 Pacemaker Speed for not that much, complete with 101/4.5 Ektar, which is a pretty good lens. Other lenses can be fitted. I have a 65/8 Ilex Acugon that makes infinity on my 2x3 Speed and is great. And a 38/4.5 Biogon that doesn't cover 2x3 but makes infinity on my Century and is greater. At the long end, well, there's not much one can do with 2x3 Graphics. My longest is a 12"/4, which sees the same view as a 135 on 35 mm. I've been thinking about making a "Baby Bertha" but that's too too absurd. As I said, Graphics are more limited than Nikon SLRs.

 

Cheers,

 

Dan

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