why dont I get blue skies

I recently (JUNE 2003) bought an Elan 7e and I have used around 6

reels. I am new to SLR photography. I have not been sucessful in

getting blue skies and get a proper exposure of the foreground. I

get blue sky when I meter the sky, and get a dark foreground. When I

meter the tree then I get good green color, but the sky is WHITE. I

have no idea what can be done to get both blue sky and green color.

I guess I am not metering properly. I try to take photographs in the

evening and not in the harsh mid-day. I am using a HOYA circular

polariser.I am using snapfish to develop my photographs. I am

currently using negative film. I am thinking of changing to slide

film, hoping to get a better color contrast. Thanks a lot for your

help.<div></div>

You need to use a graduated neutral density filter. It darkens the sky and, as a result, decreases the contrast in the scene. Kam

The probably you are having is the exposure latitude of the film is not wide enough to capture both the bright blue sky and the dark shadded trees, and I actually think slide film will just exasperate the issue. I am not that into landscape photography, but what you need is a split neutral density filter (or you can take two exposures (one for sky and one for trees) and blend them in photoshop).

 

Another solution is to wait until the trees are front lit by the sun so the exposure latitude is within the film's range.

 

Hope this helps.

Yep, a split or graduated neutral density filter is the way to go. A split will give you half clear and half "gray" with a clear distinct seperation of the two. A graduated will start clear and fade into a darker gray color. I prefer the graduated as it is more versatile. I find a split to be a bit more limiting.

Hrishikesh...if you metered just the foreground you would end up with a reading of <i>something like</i> 4 seconds at f8 but if you metered only the sky your reading would be <i>something like</i> 1/60 at f8. That means there is a 7 stop difference in the exposures. Film can not record that much of a range...it does not have that much latitude. If you expose for the sky the foreground goes dark. If you expose for the foreground the sky goes white.<p>As mentioned you could use a split neutral density filter. The top half of that filter will hold back 1-4 stops of exposure (depending on which filter you use). It's bottom half is clear. Metering off the bottom of the scene using a 4 stop split neutral density would still give you a reading of 4 sec at f8 but the top half of the scene would now be 1/4 ay f8 a four stop difference. That difference can be recorded on film.<p>Two other comments...neg film has much more latitude then slide film. If you think you have problems now then you'll have nothing but disasters if you switch to slides.<P>Why are you using a polarizer? I doubt very much if it would anything in this situation except suck up light that you don't have. I suggest you check around on how and when one works. A good place to start may be

<a href="http://www.schneideroptics.com/filters/filters_for_still_photography/polarizers/more_information/">B&W Filters</a> (although there must be better sites around).

NDs grads are the solution for most nature photographers. I like the rectangular filters that allow you to place the light to dark transition where the horizon is (otherwise you have to center the horizon on every picture).

 

A polarizer can help in some situations as well and is well worth the money if you enjoy nature photography.

<cite>

Why are you using a polarizer? I doubt very much if it would anything in this situation except suck up light that you

don't have.</cite>

<p>

Au contraire!

<p>

<center>

<img src="http://webs.lanset.com/rcochran/sab2/medres/bristle2.jpg">

<br><cite>Bristlecones in the White Mountains</cite>

</center>

<p>

I don't own a ND grad. I used a polarizer to darken the sky

in this shot, taken around noon. Admittedly, this was at

high altitude (around 10,000 feet), so the polarizing effect

was strong. I think I overdid it with this shot, and it would

probably look better if I had rotated the polarizer for less

darkening than the max possible. But anyway, it demonstrates

how a properly used polarizer will darken the sky more than

it darkens the land.

<p>

In the original shot, it looks like the photo was taken late enough

in the day that no direct sunlight was shining on the land. At

that time, the sky is much brighter relative to the land. At

midday, the land is illuminated better, but the sky isn't that much

brighter, so there's less difference between the two.

<p>

In any case, this thread is probably miscategorized. You're not

likely to use artificial lighting equipment to light the sky, so

the discussion isn't really relevant to lighting equipment and techniques. It may be more appropriate in the general or nature

forum.

Looking at Hrishikesh's picture, it appears that the polarizer isn't really set right anyway, its peeking through in the L/H upper corner of the sky. As for the graduated filters; when the pick is developed, it will look like a graduated filter, unless you can shoot the picture in such a manner to hide the transition.

Nobody mentioned it, but maybe it's too simple to consider. You will get more blue sky (and less contrast) if you are shooting with your BACK to the sun.

 

That may seem simple and obvious, but my physician, who's a sharp guy, showed me a whole role of vacation film, and kept wondering why he had no sky, except in the few where, accidentally, he faced away from the sun. Surprise: All those smiling faces with the sun behind them were shadowed out too...

Ray Hull

Ray,

 

I mentioned it. Read my post =)

A graduated ND filter will help in this type of situation. Firstly the grad ND will darken

the sky and secondly the clear zone will allow you to properly expose the shadowed

forground. The net result will be a nicely exposed foreground and a nice dark blue

sky. Cokin has a variety of garduated ND that fit their P-holder. If you would prefer a

higher quality ND filter as well as learn a bit more about them, then I would suggest

the following web site,

http://www.singh-ray.com/grndgrads.html

Good luck

If the expsoure differential is beyond 3-4 stops, then a grad ND filter will not be enough. They can be stacked, but you are just adding mud to the water. The only time I would even want to try stacking 'grads would be to smooth out moving water with a long exposure.

Another tip on polarizers - they are directional. Rotate the filter in front of the lens and see the affect it has. You will see the darkening of the sky change. Their usefullness is really in cutting reflection of off-angle light hitting the lens (most affective for windows, smooth water etc...)In a standard landscape shot, a polarizer will always darken the sky, and sun glinting off of leaves and such will be reduced, but its affect will be minimal everywhere else in the photo.

Choose a different time of day/weather, or, the only other solution is to take two pitcures, one exposed for the highlight, and one for the shade, scan them to digital and combine the two in Photoshop.