White, white, and more white :(

Discussion in 'Canon EOS' started by mls, Nov 2, 2008.

  1. mls

    mls

    When in manual or no flash modes, the vast majority of my pictures are coming out either mostly white, or all black even after resetting to the default settings and regardless of lighting. I don't know if I have changed a setting somewhere or what but it's getting very frustrating. Rebel xt; 10 months old Happens using both my 18-55mm and 75-300mm lenses and with or without UV and polarizing filters Images look normal through viewfinder but not on LCD after shooting I also seem to be having trouble focusing properly, especially with the 75-300 mm lens but this may be secondary to the severe overexposure issue (I assume that's what the white is...) Anyone have any suggestions? Thank you!
    00RMtG-84829684.jpg
     
  2. Are you 100% sure you don't have exposure compensation set?
     
  3. Hi Marrisa,

    You need to move the shutter speed and aperture settings to match the meter, then change them to allow for needing more or less light in relation to your 18% grey meter reading.

    What settings are you using and how do they compare to a reading in P mode?
     
  4. Bob exposure comp is not relevant in manual surely?
     
  5. Marissa, you need to give us some more info. What is your shutter speed, f stop, and ISO setting? Was it outside on a bright sunny day or was it overcast? Once we know these things we can help you figure out the problem. Right now it looks like a classic overexposed picture but until I know everything I cannot say for sure. Maybe your shutter is hanging up.
     
  6. mls

    mls

    Wow thank you all for the quick responses!

    How do I see if I have exposure compensation set?
    I'm pretty sure I had the shutter and aperture settings set right, but I may not have. I'm just venturing away
    from using auto for everything.
    P mode has normal lighting but it has quite a delay when trying to take a picture and still doesn't focus well.
    I have at least 80 similar shots now, from dawn to dusk and full sun to cloudy and everything in between.
    ISO is 800 but I've tried 200-1600.
    fstop is 5.6.
     
  7. Marrissa,

    Take a picture in P mode, look at the shutter speed and the aperture that it uses, then select M and put in the same shutter speed and aperture values, the picture should be the same. Like I said exposure compensation doesn't work in M mode so don't worry about that yet, I suspect that you have the other two set wrong.
     
  8. I agree with Scott.
    In M manual setting the picture should be exposed properly (according to the meter) when the hash mark on the scale below the numbers is exactly in the middle. If it is to the right of that center hash mark then you are overexposing and the shutter speed setting is wrong and needs to be increased.
    I don't know where you are at this moment but its dark where I am. You can still try this and take some shots indoors. Give it a try and take note of where the meter mark is on the scale below the numbers in your viewfinder or below the numbers on the info screen.
     
  9. mls

    mls

    Ok, I matched the aperture and shutter speeds in M to what they are in P (4.5, 1"3) and the images look the same. In M, to see anything the shutter speed has to be very slow. Otherwise it's all black.
     
  10. mls

    mls

    The meter is at -1 now and it's usually in the middle.
     
  11. At -1 in manual is it totally black? and what is your shutter speed telling you? Don't worry about a blurry picture we are trying to figure out the white and the overexposure right now. The other thing I would like you to try is to go into 1600 ISO and the switch your camera to AV. After that dial in whatever f stop you want 4.5 is fine. Then pressing the shutter button half way tell me where the hash mark is now?
     
  12. mls

    mls

    No, at -1 it's not black. I switched to ISO 1600, AV mode, fstop=4.5 and the hash is back in the middle and the shutter speed is 0"6.
     
  13. okay take the picture and tell me if its white. If its blurry thats cool, 6/10th's of 6 seconds what ever it is, is too long for sharpness handheld. I just want to know if its still white.
     
  14. Something tells me that something is blocking the light going in. Or that there's an issue with the in-camera meter. Marissa, have you tried using Full-Auto?
     
  15. mls

    mls

    ok, it's not white.
     
  16. The picture Marissa posted (quite artistic in its own way) is not +/-1 EV. I would say that it is not even +/-2EV.

    Marissa
    If you are taking pictures during day, set your ISO to 100 or 200. Set your aperture to 8. Then take the picture. If the picture is too dark, decrease your shutter speed. if it is too white then increase your shutter speed.

    If you are shooting in the evening, set ISO to 800, set aperture to the lowest number possible (4/4.5) and then take the picture. f the picture is too dark, decrease your shutter speed. if it is too white then increase your shutter speed.

    Hopefully this should solve the problem.
     
  17. Sweet, now we are getting somewhere! Now go to manual and dial in the same exact settings. 1600 ISO. f4.5, and 0"6. You should get exactly the same results. Remember shoot pointing in exactly the same direction and lighting.

    Next to test the theory you can dial in a shutter speed of 3 seconds (3" I believe on the camera or is it 3' ?)
    If that looks overexposed or white then your camera is working properly.
     
  18. mls

    mls

    ok, it's the same in manual. At 3.2 it looks slightly brighter than at at 0"6 but not all white like before. It won't let me do anything between 2.5 and 3.2.
     
  19. Marrissa- It looks brighter at 3.2 because you are opening the aperture up more and letting more light in. Another way to do this is to increase the time of exposure which is what i was getting at with changing the shutter seed from 0"6 to 3 seconds. It should get really bright then. I suggest that you play around with your camera in manual and begin to understand the relationship between shutter speed and f-stop(aperture). To get a balanced and properly exposed picture you need to find the settings in these two areas that make the meter reading on the scale centered in the middle, aka the hash mark will be in the middle not to the left - or to the right +. Once you have learned how to balance your exposure the white should go away. Good luck and keep working away at it. It will all work out just fine if you keep trying and also reading up on photography online and in books.
     
  20. mls

    mls

    Argh, I meant 3"2, sorry. The 3"2 is the shutter speed. The f-stop is still at 4.5. The picture isn't all white like before though.
     
  21. http://www.picturecorrect.com/photographytips/ExposureBasics.htm
     
  22. Yeah you might have been way over 2 stops overexposed outdoors, and at 800 ISO in your other pictures. As you are in manual watch that hash mark if it goes all the way to the right and then starts blinking then you are way overexposed and somewhere past +2 steps overexposed and it will look white big time. Hey, I saw your lillypad picture. Very nice. Good luck playing around with your camera and figuring out all of the manual features. Once you have mastered those, it is very freeing and you will be even more successful then you are already. Happy shooting!
     
  23. mls

    mls

    Thank you, and thanks for all your help Johnnie!

    And thanks to everyone else too!
     
  24. Well done Johnnie and Marissa, it was kinda like hearing a plane being talked down :) Glad you are getting it sorted, I didn't want to confuse the issue.

    Take care, Scott.
     
  25. I quite like ultra-high key myself... there's no harm in exploring that look further in my opinion...
     
  26. One thing which wasn't mentioned was looking at the histogram.
    After you understand the mechanics of how each camera function effects the exposure, Tv, Av and ISO, you must learn about using the histogram display. It is your friend for exposure.
     
  27. mls

    mls

    So I've been playing with it all night and the aperture doesn't go any lower than 4. At Av 4, the shutter speed still has to be more than a second to get any kind of image and it's impossible to get focus at that length of time handheld. Something just doesn't seem right at all. I should be able to adjust them so that I can have a "normal" shutter speed shouldn't I? Even in P it's setting the Av at 4 and the shutter speed at 8 seconds.
     
  28. Marissa,

    The low end of the aperture is limited to the lens capability. You most likely have an f/4.0 lens on your camera. Look
    at the front of the lens and it will tell you. What lens are you shooting with?
    In low light, you will have to increase the ISO to say 800 or more to get an image. What is the light condition?
    It is all about the amount of light hitting the sensor.
     
  29. Marissa,

    You are getting such long shutter speeds because it is dark, in the daylight the shutter speeds will go up, a lot. f4 is a comparatively slow lens, lens speed is very important, there is a good reason people pay lots of money for a lens that is just 1 f stop faster than a much smaller, lighter easier to use one. The third variable is your iso setting, if you have to take a picture in a dimly illuminated space and you only have an f4 lens and you have to hand hold and don't have IS then the only way to get your shutter speed up is to raise your iso setting, but you will get lots more noise and less detail.

    Keep going, Scott.
     
  30. mls

    mls

    I'm using a Canon EF 75-300 mm lens and the ISO is at 1600. I have every light on I have. I'll try it outside again today in the sun and see what happens. Thanks.
     
  31. Hi, I have been watching this thread, seems a misunderstanding of basic, 1st ISO is the sensitivity of the sensor in simple term, normal light outside 100~200 bright sunlight dull day 400. Inside 400+ but when the shutter speed is below 1/30~1/50 you`ll need flash or a tripod. Av/Tv will meter ambient light so a slow shutter speed in low light. try pop up the flash while inside in `P` 800ISO or `M` mode speed 1/60 f4 800ISO be aware the flash is only good for bout 10 feet. Outside in sun 200ISO `Av` F8. should be in the ball park move on. Have you read the MAnual ? :)

    HTH
     
  32. I missed something, use the 18 55 for slow shots, your tele will be hard to hold still without support like tripod in low light :)
     
  33. yes you did miss something. This is not about focal length or blur. Her problem was overexposure. You are right about reading the manual though. They can be very helpful.
     
  34. "I have every light on I have."

    Normal room lighting is quite *dark*. Your eyes and brain work much better than the camera and f4 - 5.6 lens. And now you know why some people like f1.4 primes. :)

    ...which are not without their own problems.
     
  35. mls

    mls

    I have read the manual, and everything was fine until a couple days ago. Sorry if I don't know the lingo the adequately explain the problem....I'll try a picture with the settings used. :) P, outside, mostly sunny, ISO 400, f/5.4, 0"3
    00RNCZ-85009684.jpg
     
  36. I think this is a metering issue personally, either a problem in the camera or a problem with the metering mode used. ISO 400 @ f/5.4 for 0.3 seconds seems like way way too long of an exposure for daylight. Try some shots in different modes (aperture priority for instance) and see if there is a change. Then try manual, decreasing the exposure as necessary and see how far the different settings are off.
     
  37. "P, outside, mostly sunny, ISO 400, f/5.4, 0"3"

    Very unlikely you would be getting those readings outside in daylight conditions if the camera was functioning
    properly.

    Have you tried flash, just to add more information to this mystery.
    I am leaning towards a trip to Canon by your camera. I donโ€™t believe the meter is working properly.

    Set the camera on M and use the settings above but change the Tv to 1/125. Tha should produce a decent picture.
     
  38. Sunny 16 rule would work here. Use the manual mode. Set the iso at 100 and shoot at 1/125th or 1/100th sec with aperture at f16 on a sunny day. Aim at a normal view with a normal or slightly wide lens. Check the histogram or view the image. If it is too light like you posted then send it out for repair.
     
  39. I'd try a shot in full auto. If the pic looks "normal" or what you think it should look like when reviewing then hit info a few times until you get the screen that tells you all the info on the picture. It will display ISO, Shutter speed, and aperture. Use that as a base guide.

    If in full auto mode your camera is still overexposing then you probably have a repair coming.

    One last thing I can think of. Is the sun hitting the front of the lens? You may have a flare problem and need to shade the front of the lens.
     
  40. It would be really, really, *really* helpful to have some in-image Exif to look at...
     
  41. `yes you did miss something. This is not about focal length or blur. Her problem was overexposure`

    Thankyou Mr Walker, I was fully aware the OP probs, The sample could well have been too high an ISO and night shots spot or partial metering the darkest point (no EXIF). If the camera does not function in the simplest basic task, then either a setting is out (EC or ? )or a malfunction. the use of the 18 55 far better to determine in low light than a 300mm. I have had this before when a diapham unit failed and remained wide open. To testwas to put on f16 and press DOF button VF should darken. I`d now suggest to visit a nearby trusted fhoto store :)
     
  42. May I suggest to take a look at your lenses. It happened once to me with my lens that the aperture ring was stuck and all of my shots were over- and underexposed at various shutter speeds. If you take your lens off the body, there might be a small lever on the back of your lens that you can move. I just realized, however, that you probably won't have this lever, as I have just checked my own Canon lenses and they don't appear to have one but there was one on my Nikkor lenses. Not sure if there is something on the body that would control the aperture setting, as I am not certain of the mechanics of your camera. Maybe someone else could shed some light on that part, as it seems that you have tried all kinds of things without much success. Could be the mechanics, as this happened to me. I think there was some sand lodged in the lever. Just my 2 cents. Good luck!
     
  43. Nanette, its how I described using the DOF button while the lens is on body

    Cheers :)
     
  44. Take it to a camera store, and see if they can help you in person. If not, the camera is probably defective. happens more often
    then you'd think.
     
  45. Hello, I did not read all the posts so I may repeat something here. I had the same problem a while ago and could finally debug the problem down to the damaged Sigma lens. The Aperture was stuck at wide open, so even the machine calculating f8 and some speed the real aperture was f2.8. Some of my images have been ok if I had a shooting situation which needed f2.8, all other have been overexposed.

    Simga was fixed and now it's ok.

    To debug I set manually f22 and looked in the lens for a test shot and saw that the aperture remained open while shooting.

    Maybe that helps.

    Regards Axel
     
  46. mls

    mls

    Sorry, I got caught up at work. I guess I'll take it in and have someone look at it. Thanks for all your help!
     
  47. Just reading a sample of these posts it sounds like either the lens it not stopping down to the correct aperture or the camera is not recognizing the flash gun (i.e. it is taking the photo as if there is no flash). this will cause overexposure if the flash fires. Do you get a flash symbol in the viewfinder
     
  48. I had the same problem today, but after I put my XSI on live view it returned to normal. Not sure why.

    Please keep us updated so that we know what recourse you had to make in order to fix the problem.
     
  49. (P, outside, mostly sunny, ISO 400, f/5.4, 0"3)

    I cant understand why the meter is reading so far overexposed.
    With sunny 16 using 400 iso, her exposure settings should be:
    f4 at 1/6400
    f5.6 at 1/3200
    f8 at 1/1600
    f11 at 1/800
    f16 at 1/400 all using 400 iso.
    Maybe a bit longer shutter speed due to "partly sunny"
     
  50. Hi Marissa,

    You might want to simply reset the camera completely to factory defaults, see it that clears up the problem.

    Here's how:

    Remove the main battery. Look for and remove the little silver "memory" battery too. Leave the batteries out of
    the camera for an hour.

    Reinstall the batteries, set camera to P, ISO to 100 and go shoot something outside on a sunny day.

    Doing this clears all the settings in the camera, possibly including something you've set by mistake.
    Unfortunately it will also clear any Custom Function or other special settings you've made in the menu, and
    you'll need to reset the date and time.

    A "reboot" or complete reset of the camera like this is a good idea before sending a camera in for repair.

    Also, if there is a local camera shop or you are part of a camera club, you could have someone take a look at it
    locally before shipping it off. They might spot an incorrect setting you've missed.
     

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