Which screen for F3HP do you find most useful?

Just aquired an F3HP and I haven't popped the top yet to see what's under the

hood, but the focusing screen seems to be all just fine micro-prism. Since I

am a bit near-sighted, I really like having a split prism to help with more

distant focus; i.e. beyond 10 feet or so. I have an FE2 with a vertical split

prism, that I find I am often turning the camera sideways to see the split, I

am guessing I would be best off with the "L" screen with the 45 degree prism?

I generally use f2.8 or faster lenses, so the darkening effect is not usually

a problem. Thanks for any advice you can offer.

The grid screen with no rangefinder or microprism patch.

Edward is referring to the E screen. I often use also a "P" screen, which has a grid as well as a split-image rangefinder. The slopes of the wedges of the P screen are less than usual, so they don't black out with lenses as slow as f/4.5.<p>For macro work, I use the 6X finder and the M aerial focusing screen.

I have always preferred split-image focusing for most shooting situations.

I use the B screen which I think is the E screen without the grid. For me the K screen split image was harder to focus.

 

Rick

Never liked split-image patches whatever the angle simply because they slow-up candids.Then there's the "black hole" problem with macro and small apertures...The J screen isn't bad.But the E is my fave and I've fitted it to every Nikon I own that'll take one.

E screen, followed by the B screen; always removed the standard K screen ASAP.

If you like a split image, you'll probably like the K screen. It is the one on my F3. Some like the P screen, its at a 45 degree angle. See http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonf3ver2/screens/index.htm

for more info.

I've been using the E grid screen for years. The image is bright and crisp enough for focusing at night if there's only a reasonable amount of light, such as under a partial moon.

 

But it's not as quick as a split image aid in some cases. Depending on the subject I might need to do a little more back-and-forthing to nail the focus. For me, the slight inconvenience is worthwhile for the grid screen.

Thanks for all the info. I finally got a look at the screen and it is an H2, which seems to be somewhat general purpose, maybe not so much for longer lenses. My lenses are 28 f2.8 AIs, 35 F2 AIs, 75-150mm 3.5, 105 2.5 AIs, and a 200 F4 AI. Thank you Paul for the link, I will definitely give that a good look over before shopping for a new screen.

Donald,

Changing screens won't solve your nearsightedness problem. What you need is a corrective lens for the finder. Nikon makes them. SLR cameras are designed to a distance of one meter. Take the camera to your eye doctor, or a dealer if you have one nearby who stocks the lenses. Once you can see clearly, you may not want a split image. My personal preference is for the E grid screens.

Hi, dear friend. I use, in my Nikon F3 (not HP), the "P" focusing screen. I find very useful the simple cross grid lines and the 45 degrees split image rangefinder. I also own the "R" focusing screen, with normal split image rangefinder and the classic vertical and horizontal grid lines, but i find this screen not too useful, because the split image rangefinder of the "R" screen support few lenses.

The "E" type focusing screen, with vertical and horizontal grid lines without any focusing aids, i mount on my Nikon FE-2 and F100.

Ciao.

I always hated the original "K" screen. I replaced it on all my MF Nikons with the "B" one. I have been using the B screen successfully for more than twenty years; then, I returned to the original K screen as my eyesight gets down. The horizontal split image (like in rangefinders) works to me.

 

I feel more assured with the aid of a split image, which I really need with medium to wide lenses, specially at dim conditions. The B screen is now almost useless to me.