Which Nikon DSLR would you recommend for me?

Discussion in 'Nikon' started by rexmarriott, May 16, 2018.

  1. Rex, the OP - remember him? - made no mention of an interest in video.

    So why are we trying to push 4k video on him?

    FWIW, I do have a 4k TV, and there is nothing presently broadcast in UHD. I'm sure that'll change, but I'm also pretty sure it's going to be a slow process. In fact a great deal of content shown consists of old repeats from before HD was even thought of, which has been digitally upscaled and enhanced!

    The 4K TV is great for viewing still slideshows on though.

    And if you make prints less than exhibition size, 12 Megapixels is still sufficient. To paraphrase some famous photographer or other: If the picture is good enough, nobody cares what camera it was taken with.

    Besides, more and more people are viewing content on tiny portable screens, where 4K and > 12 Mp is just total overkill. 4K on Youtube? LOL!
  2. Just to be clear, I'm not pushing 4k as a high priority feature for most people - I wasn't rushing to get the D850 because of it (and it's only 30p anyway) - it's more useful to me as a way of getting a very high frame rate at moderate resolution.

    Since it's been so long since I used terrestrial broadcast at home (the CRT from my bedroom, with its DVB receiver, is due for recycling this weekend and hasn't been turned on for years) I've not followed the terrestrial broadcast situation - people in my office are involved with BT.2020 and BT.2100, but what that means for reaching the market I don't know, and I'd just be quoting Wikipedia. Even so, the D850 is only just on the acceptable limit of quality for broadcast, and I'd expect many more people to be generating 4k content for other reasons.

    Few phones have a genuine 4k screen (hi, Sony). It does bug me that most high end phones have a resolution that necessitates softening 1080 by rescaling. Still, for VR, more pixels really matters, and probably viewing on 4k computer displays is a better case than TVs. I vaguely plan to update my MacBook when Apple finally put a 4k screen in one.

    For stills, on the other hand, I think the "enough megapixels" argument went away when we gained the ability to pan and zoom interactively. 12MP might be good enough for a decent 300dpi print, but not necessarily for a 100dpi monitor!
  3. "For stills, on the other hand, I think the "enough megapixels" argument went away when we gained the ability to pan and zoom interactively."

    Hmmm. So you're saying that viewing, say, Adams's 'Half Dome' in quarter frame chunks, or panning around it, is the same as seeing the whole composition at once? I don't think so.

    Is composition an outmoded skill then? And should we just stick the widest-angle lens we can find on the highest resolution camera we can afford; letting the viewer meander about the image 'til they find a bit they like?

    If that's the future, shoot me now!
  4. Widest lens crammed with megapixels rapid fired onto a huge card and hours and hours on a computer should cover it.....;)
  5. Not at all, Joe. I view the whole frame as well. But given a large print of Half Dome, in addition to looking at the whole, I tend to peer closely at details. (Maybe less so Half Dome than Clearing Winter Storm or The Tetons - Snake River.)

    With a large physical print I move my head closer, to where I absolutely can't see the whole frame comfortably. I do the same by zooming with my fingers or mouse when viewing electronically. And I can zoom back out just as easily. Such is the age we live in - if you only ever want people to look at your composition of the whole image, you're kind of limited to 6x4 prints.
  6. Greetings! I have a question as to the D1X, I recently grabbed a mint D1x outfit,ie; new battery,charger and lens. The question is that I never pull a CF card from any of my cameras, but use communication cables to prevent pin damage. I grabbed a firewire to usb cable for this and when hooked to my usb computer drive got an alarm saying to much power is applied to the drive and shut it down, Anyone else have this problem or is the factory cable power throttled. Thank you in advance, Jim.
  7. This might be best dealt with in its own separate thread, but I've never had a lot of luck getting D1 series cameras to "talk" via FW.

    If I'm not mistaken, you need the wall power pack for the camera to do anything when connected to the computer. I've not played with it a WHOLE lot, but it's a good starting point at least. This seems a bit strange to me given that Firewire itself can supply surprisingly large amounts of bus power(45W IIRC) but none the less if you intend to use D1 series cameras you should have the wall pack.
  8. Why exactly did you buy a camera about to celebrate it's 20th birthday? Sure the D1X was 2001, but yippee 5.3 Mega Pixels!
  9. For the same reason I would buy a '55 Chevy before a new one, it's about style and design. I have 5 other modern shooters, but enjoy this classic....:)
  10. Thank you, I will try my power pack, just thought the camera would operate on the same voltage either battery or power pack, will try.
  11. D1 series batteries had notoriously short lives back in the day(you can find plenty of internet reviews from the time that recommend users of these cameras have several charged for a day of shooting) and time hasn't done them any favors. I have probably a dozen packs, and they range from completely dead to maybe lasting 20-30 shots, to the best one maybe being good for a couple hundred. Using image review for much more than a casual peak or really doing much of anything other than shooting will zap them a lot faster than that.

    I suspect that Nikon deliberately locked out certain features that would use a lot of power(like connecting them to the computer) so as to not inadvertently run down the battery in the middle of them.

    Even though the D200 used much, much better EN-EL3e Li-Ion batteries, I still had to buy a wall pack for mine so that I could clean the sensor(since having the camera shut-off and the shutter close in the middle of the operation can be catastrophic). Even my fairly recent cameras that use EN-EL15 batteries want basically a fully charged battery before they will allow you to update the firmware-there again the camera shutting off in the middle of an update can brick it.
  12. I tried to pry open a D1 battery pack but no success. I am sure I can get new/better cells for it.
  13. I've tried to open one also with no luck.

    I actually ran by Batteries Plus with one, but they didn't have any luck either. They apparently can get new production ones for $40 or so...although I wonder how new they are.

    They'd be 3rd party, of course, but I don't lose too much sleep over that with D1 batteries. In fact, in my experience the 3rd party ones are often better than genuine Nikons.
  14. Well for that the MN-2 battery for the F3 MD4 motor drive I rebuilt is certainly better than genuine Nikon.

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