Which is most practical car window camera support for long teles

<p>Pl tell-Which is most practical car window camera support for long teles. I want to soot from car as a blind , I have big teles .<br>

Shud II use bean bag, bean bag w ball head or any other type support which can be mounted on window glass for height adjustment. I am posting links, which may be helpful for others also. there are many makers, Pl tell ur experience.<br>

http://www.outdoorphotogear.com/store/other-support/<br>

http://www.rue.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=4_5<br>

http://www.rue.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=4_5<br>

http://www.outdoorphotoshop.co.za/Search.aspx?Keyword=badger<br>

http://www.b-hague.co.uk/camera_suction_pads_vacuum_mounts.htm<br>

http://artfuldogger.blogspot.com/2010/12/rice-bag-camera-support-for-car-window.html<br>

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/buy/Vehicle-Mounts/ci/4022/N/4294550776<br>

http://artfuldogger.blogspot.com/2010/12/rice-bag-camera-support-for-car-window.html<br>

http://www.videomaker.com/article/13050/<br>

http://www.vertexphoto.com/BeanBag.aspx<br>

http://www.shortcourses.com/guide/guide4-4.html<br>

http://www.filmtools.com/carwincampod.html<br>

http://www.kirkphoto.com/Window-Mount.html<br>

http://www.photographyreview.com/mfr/ergorest/tripods/PRD_111995_3114crx.aspx</p>

<p> </p>

<p>So far what I've found easiest with my biggest lens (12lbs worth of a Minolta 600 f4 apo HS) is to roll the window all the way down and then rest the lens directly on the door, with a DSLR attached that has both a good tiltable rear LCD and fast live-view AF (in my case the camera is a Sony a500).</p>

<p>With a stabilized sensor or lens system, and a body that has excellent high ISO performance, there usually isn't nearly as much of a need to worry about absolutely minimizing vibrations compared to pre-stabilization days. Not having to use a bean bag means it cannot drop out the window inadvertently, and there's no worries about the load capacity and stability of a window clamp or any other type of dedicated mount. The latter can interfere with closing the window or quickly taking the lens inside if (for example) it suddenly starts pouring down, that enthousiastic buffalo comes a little too close for comfort, or you want to turn towards or drive after a different subject that's moving away from your POV.</p>

<p>I got a thick piece of high density foam. Works for me with a 400mm F5.6. Larger faster lenses might not work as well. Anyway it might be a good starting place for those wanting to get their feet wet using a car as a blind. I even cut a small "V" shaped notch on the bottom of the foam to fit the glass edge so it is not as likely to drop off. Electric knif or hacksaw does the job.</p>

<p>Thankurdalip I use a molar bean bag from here <a href="http://www.vertexphoto.com/BeanBag.aspx">http://www.vertexphoto.com/BeanBag.aspx</a> with two Wimberley module one clamps that I already owned to stabilize the lens foot. This hyperlink is a good review and may be useful <a href="http://www.chobesafari.com/photography-tips/finding-the-perfect-photo-bean-bag-for-safari.html">http://www.chobesafari.com/photography-tips/finding-the-perfect-photo-bean-bag-for-safari.html</a> . You can spend a lot of money but the molar bag seemed to be well priced and very easy to use. I am sure you can make something for far less. Costco or Sam's can sell you a large bag of beans for about 15 dollars. Good hunting. Andy</p>

<p>Hello Thakur,</p>

<p>this might be of interest too:<br>

http://www.naturescapes.net/store/puffin_pad-a-lightweight-alternative-to-the-beanbag.html<br /> http://www.naturescapes.net/docs/index.php/articles/433</p>

<p>I have no patience to look through the lists of links above, I'm sorry.</p>

<p>However, somebody at my photo collective meeting last Tuesday had just bought a rig of plastic (?) reinforced stiff foam that would slip over the window as a support without posing the threat of snapping off a nice crescent moon bit of window. I think he paid about US$8-12 for it.</p>

<p>I'd use a bean bag if I could ever remember to carry one.... :(</p>

<p><a href="http://www.naturescapes.net/store/skimmersack.html">http://www.naturescapes.net/store/skimmersack.html</a><br>

There is no simple answer. Why? The support system you need for your long lens in your vehicle is dependent on the design of your vehicle; its window design and curvature; the design of the armrest on the door where you will be using the lens, if it is to support any device like the Kirk window mount; your particular lens; and other such factors, like whether you already own a gimbal head and you want to use it at the same time. <br>

As a practical matter, a good bean bag that will work with your long lens is the most cost effective device to get. One type to get is the Skimmer Sack sold by NSN and its related products shown in the link above. <br>

What works for a 300mm f4 or f2.8 might not be suited for a 500mm f4.0 or a 600mm f4.0. It would be nice to know what lens you mean by long lens.<br>

I use both a bean bag and a Kirk window mount with a ball head for my 500mm f 4.0. The Kirk happens to fit on my armrest of my vehicle perfectly. If I am in a rental, I use a bean bag. And I use my bean bag too in my own vechile when my Kirk cannot be positioned as needed. The bean bag offers more flexibility. <br>

Regardless of what you get make sure that it does not interfere with the AF mechanisms of the lens or otherwise negatively affect how you operate the lens.<br>

Joe Smith</p>

<p> </p>

<p><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=857417">Joseph Smith</a> , I use generally Nikon 200-400mm vr lens . sometimes Nikon F3.5, 400mmMf w 1.4 tc. <br>

i dont have gimble head but like to use it when bought in future. recently bought Manfroto 393</p>

<p>Thakurdalip said:<br>

"... I use generally Nikon 200-400mm vr lens . sometimes Nikon F3.5, 400mmMf w 1.4 tc. <br />i dont have gimble head but like to use it when bought in future. recently bought Manfroto 393"</p>

<p>With those lenses I'd just hand-hold out the car window. They're not that heavy. Depending on your vehicle, you can find ways to brace your elbow, camera or lens to supplement the stabilization.</p>

<p>Even with my 500mm f/4L IS, I seldom use my beanbag. Beanbags are inexpensive, so I'd suggest that you get one and try it, but I think you'll find that pure hand-holding, while bracing yourself, is the way to work from your car with those lenses.</p>

<p>BTW, the more you do it the stronger you'll get. After 10-months of holding my 500mm, my left arm is stronger and I can hold the lens locked onto a subject longer. Here's the 500mm hand-held out my car window yesterday:</p>

<p><a title="Red-tail hawk up close by dcstep, on Flickr" href=" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5210/5337413462_829e5fae0f_b.jpg" alt="Red-tail hawk up close" width="1024" height="683" /></a></p>

<p>Bath towel. Leg of jeans or other pants filled with beans and sewed shut. For travel use a hotel towel. Carry empty jeans leg, buy beans locally, sew shut with sewing kit; empty for return trip.</p>

<p>I agree with Steve H. Also, turn of the engine (unless your shooting a charging bull elephant )and have passengers sit still while you're shooting. Both suggestions are to reduce camera movement / vibration.</p>

<p>I use a towel... lets me work quick, not scratch the lens barrel, and is minimal to deal with. -g-</p>

<p>I have a fancy window mount that I use occasionally, big, bulky, and heavy.<br>

What I've switched to is high density pipe insulation. About 2 bucks for 4 feet. It has a split so it fits on the window. I cut to just bigger than the width of the window opening so it fits snug and doesn't fall off. I can adjust the window for height, swing the foot for extra brace, and, as said above, always shut off the engine and strap my wife in her seat.</p>

<p>I use and love my Bushnell window mount, it's more for a lightweight scope but I put my 600mm on it, which weighs around 15 lbs. When using a heavy lens I attach the window mount, then roll the window down until the base of the mount is resting firmly against the door frame before mounting the lens so that glass alone is not supporting all that weight (window seems very likely to break in an exciting moment if you don't). It marrs the tinting on my window, which is a kind of thin stick-on layer, so be warned if you have such tinting. I bought it used at a pawn shop for 9 dollars and have used it to take thousands of photos using the truck as a blind, as long as the vehicle is turned off it gives me vibration-free images. Don't know if it's the best choice for you but it's been perfect for me. </p>