Which flash brackets and light modifiers would you recommend?

<p>Hi everyone.</p>

<p>An old friend has asked me if I would take some pictures of their wedding in a few weeks time. It's a very simple low key affair. Registry office, less than 10 guests and a meal in a restaurant. The B&G are very relaxed people. They weren't going to bother with a photographer.</p>

<p>I'm not a complete newcomer. I've been primary photographer for a couple of friend's weddings in the past, but that was 20 years ago on film. In those days I used ambient light and/or on-camera flash with a Micro-Apollo - getting decent results. I have been very clear about my limited experience. </p>

<p>I currently use a D90 plus SB-700. I intend to charge the B&G for hire of a backup camera and flash for the day.</p>

<p>I have a little Christmas money to spend and I was thinking of investing in a flash bracket, off camera remote cord and a light modifier of some sort: perhaps a lumiquest softbox or bounce card. I would really appreciate any recommendations....... </p>

<p>Thanks</p>

<p>Chris</p>

<p>Based on your info, you will not need a flash bracket. Learn to bounce your flash off ceilings and walls, and at the very least, off a white card. You can also use the white card to bounce a little light forward.</p>

<p>Consult Neil van Niekerk's blog and look at the tutorials on using on camera flash. Then go to the Demb Diffuser site and look at those tutorials. You can purchase a Demb Diffuser (very convenient, and not that expensive), or you can go with making your own. Look up A Better Bounce Card--the DIY instructions.</p>

<p>The main thing is--you don't want to always rely on light from the flash unit only--you want to bounce it--so that shadows are much more diffuse, and use as much of the ambient as possible. With today's digitals, you can go fairly high ISO without too much problem. With the D90, I'd think ISO 800 would be entirely safe, if not ISO 1250.</p>

<p>I'm not saying a flash bracket is obsolete. I use one sometimes. Just not as necessary as before.</p>

<p>I have used my Lambency diffuser a good deal since I got it some months ago. It is a reasonably priced copy of the Gary Fong thing. There is a slight offset shadow when it is used on camera vertically. No problem with horizontal use. As it adds height, its use also results in a shadow under the face -- at least at short distances.</p>

<p>Thanks for the advice guys and particularly the links Nadine - very useful. I've been practicing mixing ambient and bounce flash (example attached), but I'm not that confident yet. Here's an example taken today - I'm quite pleased with it apart from the rather puny catchlights.</p>

<p>I'll certainly look into the Demb and the Lambency. </p>

<p>I think I'll get the off-camera remote cord anyway as portraiture is my latest thing, and I'm planning on getting a nice big brolly to fire the flash through when I photograph the children. </p>

<p>Chris</p><div></div>

<p>+1 for the Demb diffuser.</p>

<p>I like both the standard Flip-it and the small portrait dish. They are easy to use, are very versatile, very portable, and not too expensive.</p>

<p>If you want to get a bracket, Demb also produces a very simple, inexpensive bracket that I use when necessary.</p>

<p>RS</p>

<p>My advice is to keep things simple. Light mods don't come much simpler than a bounce card. I have been a faithful user of the Demb Flip-It for several years now. Very versatile, very light, pretty affordable.</p>

<p>I also agree with bouncing off different surfaces, not just the ceiling. Walls, tables, bride's dress, you name it, you can probably bounce off it for some useful modelling and shadow sculpting.</p>

<p>Niel's site is one of my go-to sites for creative use of flash especially in a wedding context. So is Cliff Mautner's blog.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I have three flash brackets, the Lambency diffuser, Stofen type diffuser and several 'better flash cards'. Flash brackets can slow down portrait to landscape switches a little. The Lambency gives the softest shadows but saps a lot of power. Stofen PLUS better bounce card gains me some power at the expense of slightly harder shadows. Stofen without bounce card is not hugely different from the Lambency when pointing the flash upwards.</p>

<p>I have a Bower VA346 "compact" bracket. Price about $25. Switching from horizontal to vertical is quick. However, the flash is raised quite high, and if a diffuser is attached to the flash the whole thing becomes badly balanced and unwieldy.</p>

<p>I use old Stroboframe brackets that I have pieced together over the year into various configurations, most of the guys doing big jobs that I work with who still do serious work are using the "Really Right Stuff" brackets. They are costly though.</p>

<p>Thanks everyone.</p>

<p>I've decided to leave the bracket for now, but have ordered a Demb bounce card. Hopefully it will reach the UK in time for my wedding.</p>

<p>In the meantime I'm going to practice with a home made version and/or the Nikon diffuser which came with the flash (which seems to offer something similar to a Stofen). If the worst comes to the worse, I'll be at the wedding with a piece of cardboard attached with rubber bands!</p>

<p>Those Really Right Stuff brackets, plates etc look fantastic. Perhaps one day I'll be good enough to justify the expense!</p>

<p>Chris </p>

<p> </p>

<p>I have a Custom Bracket setup that I paid an exorbitant sum of money for, and now rarely use. I much prefer the effect from bouncing the flash off ceilings and walls, or a bounce card. I have a few different bounce cards, but my favorite is the Lumiquest 80-20, which is a sort of pierced bounce card that redirects 20% of the light forward as a direct light, and lets the rest out to bounce back to your subject. It also has inserts for when you want full bouncing.<br>

I wouldn't suggest the Lumiquest softbox unless you are also getting an off camera cord, and really wouldn't suggest it much at all, it's too small to provide much in the way of softening. <br>

I also often use an index card and a rubber band if I don't happen to have anything else handy-it's been used by plenty of photojournalists through the years, and it works for me.</p>

<p>White business cards or paper, and rubber bands work. They just aren't as convenient or professional looking (to non photographers) as a Flip It or Demb Diffuser. Plus, the piano hinge is the secret behind the Flip It or Demb Diffuser. It really does matter how far forward or back the card is pushed (to the final results) and the hinge holds its position, making it easy to duplicate results from time to time. I've modified my Flip Its to fit my needs exactly.</p>

<p>If you want to make something, look at the following thread. I show my homemade A Better Bounce Card-type modifier. This is for those times where there is truly nothing to bounce off, or you don't want to bounce the light, for some reason. It looks fairly decent.</p>

<p><a href="../photography-lighting-equipment-techniques-forum/00Z8Ck">http://www.photo.net/photography-lighting-equipment-techniques-forum/00Z8Ck</a></p>

<p>As for brackets, I probably have over 10 different ones. Anything you need to know, just ask. I've settled on 2 different ones now, which I use when I need a bracket. One is the Demb bracket, but it really kills my right wrist if I use it for long periods of time, and I develop a large callus on my middle finger. The other one is now called a Novacon Flash Bracket.</p>

<p><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/808183-REG/Novacon_NF310000_NovaFlip_Flash_Bracket.html">http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/808183-REG/Novacon_NF310000_NovaFlip_Flash_Bracket.html</a></p>

<p>It can't be used with cameras with a vertical grip, and it is a pain when you have to switch memory cards or camera batteries, but it is light and compact, and puts the flash where I need it for those times I need direct flash with vertical shots (where a shadow may show). You can bounce with it too but it isn't necessary. The RRS wedding bracket is more elegant, but larger and more expensive.</p>

<p>Before you spend money on a bracket, e-mail me.</p>

<p>Simon:</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Flash brackets can slow down portrait to landscape switches a little. </p>

</blockquote>

<p>Not with the demb bracket. That's one of the reasons I use it. It speeds up my switch from landscape to portrait because if I'm bouncing my flash, which if I'm using the bracket, I am bouncing my flash, then I don't have to change the orientation of the degree of angle on the flash head itself. It just moves at a slight touch at the hinge of the demb bracket. It's now carried at B&H http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/833263-REG/DEMB_DFBR_Lightweight_Flash_Bracket.html</p>

<p>I really can't figure out for the life of me why people use flash brackets anymore, since their primary benefit is related to hitting people with some amount of direct frontal flash (whether 100% or a fraction) and a rotating flash head negates 95% of their purpose IMO. </p>

<p>Catchlights aren't so important to me anymore...haven't mattered to me in a long time. They are for portrait photography when you have the time and desire to use controlled lighting and produce catchlights with flash. Their absence does not break a non-studio image.</p>

<p>Remote cord, not sure of the purpose of this at all for weddings. Sounds like stuff used long ago when focus was manual and cameras were always on tripods. Sure, if everything is preset it will work...but only for static images. These aren't the majority of a wedding IMO.</p>

<p>Flip-its, etc...another thing I won't use. Throws a fraction of frontal flash (and the tiniest catchlights, at the expense of nasty specular highlights and ugly shadows) if the flash head is bounced upward while facing forward; otherwise, it serves basically no purpose at all. Paper (very thick) is an infinitely better option because it can serve as a snoot and actually prevent light from going forward when the flash head is pointed up.</p>

<p>Negative Negative Negative...I say just bounce the flash, use a handheld off-camera flash to bounce, etc...Phottix strato II trigger pair can be had for about $100.</p>

 

<p>Hi Vail. The Demb diffuser looks ideal, as does the bracket. Pity we have to order from the States and face the lottery of import duties and VAT! I'd be interested in Chris's experiences with this.</p>

<p>An issue for me though with diffusing is the loss of flash power. With an SB800 and Lambency diffuser, I'm at f5.6 ISO 400 at around 10 - 12 feet. </p>

<p>Hmm, I wouldn't be so quick to condemn some tried and true lighting tools Joey. There's a place for everything, depending how you shoot.</p>

<p>Flash brackets were and are still used to throw the drop shadow down behind the subject while keeping the flash on axis to the lens. They also helped eliminate red-eye and reflections off glasses. </p>

<p>Bouncing off the ceiling or walls is great as long as the ceiling isn't really high and dark, or some ghastly color. The issue with ceiling bounce is when shooting closer to the subject ... the angle gets too narrow and you end up with almost direct down overhead flash ... not cool with for lighting up foreheads, emphasizing dad's thinning hair, or bald spots : -)</p>

<p>Off camera cords are still pretty viable and reliable way to get a single flash off-camera ... especially when used in concert with a bracket that has a quick release for the flash. </p>

<p>All that said, those Phottix Strato triggers are pretty cool! They are the first ones I've seen that pass through TTL functions for Sony Alpha cameras. Unfortunately, Pal Pal won't accept payment to Hong Kong Suppliers, and redirects me back to the retail page : -(</p>

<p>-Marc </p>

<p> </p>

<p>It's interesting how things go round and round on here. Marc's first four paragraphs are things we've discussed a number of times on here, and the whole thing about bouncing off certain surfaces and the angle of the bounce are two things I have mentioned several times myself in the past. Whatever anyone does, and how they do it and what they prefer is certainly their business good, bad, or indifferent. But, I want some light from the flash going forward by use of some worthwhile bounce device, often a big Lumiquest bounce card, I still like the silver insert too for some pop, or an 80/20 like A. Davis mentions.</p>

<p>Joey--two things.</p>

<p>1. I believe you have the wrong idea about remote cords. The OP is talking about an Off Camera Shoe Cord, not a camera release.</p>

<p>2. Whatever you want to do or not do about white cards is totally up to you of course, but you also have the wrong idea about the Demb card if you think that it produces next to direct flash all the time. In a narrow range of angles starting with the card pushed backward slightly, it augments bounced light with some very slight frontal redirected light. The key is not to overdo it. You might get an extremely diffuse shadow (from the card) if the subject is standing next to a wall, but it is almost not noticeable. If the subject is not standing next to a wall or other flat surface, you do not see any shadows except for ones created by the main, bounced light. Overall, it <strong>may</strong> be better than no frontal fill, depending upon the quality and direction of the main, bounced light.</p>

<p>But why not just use the built-in white card on the flash? In any case, the flat light and specular highlights produced by any frontal flash are impossible for me to ignore and not worth the effort to remove in post.</p>

<p>I have not seen red-eye in any frontal flash shots where the flash was more than a few inches away from the axis of the lens (which hot shoe flashes always are).</p>

<p>And yes the remote cord was confused...but they are frequently unreliable if there is any connector separate from a hot shoe flash mount on both sides (e.g. miniphones, pc sync plugs)</p>

<p>You don't use the built-in white card because it can't be tilted back. There are no specular highlights produced when the card is tilted back. As for flat light, it is, in the sense that it is filling, not the main light, which is the bounced light thrown by the flash. The tilted back card is skimming some of that main light to throw forward, but not so big a part that you get any kind of specular highlights.</p>

<p>Personally I also don't like the look of the light (any light) coming from the on-camera position as I find it flat and boring. So when I bounce flash I do it because I want the light source to come from somewhere else. And when there is no time to use off camera flash, bouncing the flash from the on-camera position is the best compromise.The flash will illuminate something else and that will become the new light source.</p>

<p>With this kind of usage there is no point in using any kind of flash modifier except perhaps a flag or a snoot to be certain that no flash will come from the camera position. This is also how Neil van Niekerk who was referenced in another post does it. Zooming in the flash or at least controlling the flash zoom level and not have it follow your focal length is important for control but even more important for bouncing efficiency - the difference between 24mm and 105mm for instance is about two stops.</p>

<p>Contrast is controlled by using ambient light to fill, aka dragging the shutter.</p>

<p>When you get too much toplight it is because you are placing your new light source above the subject and the light is bouncing down on top of them rather than from a nice angle. So you need to adjust where you bounce. If you are close or the ceiling is high you need to bounce backwards. I think this looks a lot better than trying to solve the toplight and the resulting dark eye sockets by filling them with on axis fill (flash from the camera position).</p>

<p>If there is no way to bounce I want the light source to be as big as possible and not waste any light by throwing it in any other direction except forward. For on camera use a small softbox like Lumiquest Softbox III was the biggest I could find that would fit. For me this particular scenario would be the time when a flash bracket would be beneficial or to hold the flash in my hand to control the light direction or to put it on a stick.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Forgot to say, Joey--I don't understand what you are saying about off camera shoe cords. Anyway, I can't think of any reason why one might suggest to the OP <strong>not</strong> to get an off camera shoe cord if he or she thinks it would fit his or her needs. Yes, build quality can be improved, but for the most part, mine have been fairly reliable.</p>

<p>Pete, I think what you wrote is really excellent and I can relate to it all, but don't you find you have trouble freezing motion sometimes without any light going forward during movement? Or may be you're using higher ISO and maxing out your shutter sync? Thanks</p>

<p>Oh Em Gee...anything that uses pc sync (or even miniphone jacks) is prone to randomly stop working because of incomplete connection between male and female side. The designs of these adapters is very touchy and the connections frequently adjust themselves to disconnect...at the wrong times. It is embarrassing to be ready for a shot, click and have no flash go off, then rush desperately to eliminate possible causes. There is no time for that stuff. After years of going through cords, then radio triggers that randomly turned themselves off AND were dependent on miniphone jack adapters and pc sync cord adapters...going to hot shoe pass-through triggers (phottix strato II) eliminated ALL of the inconsistent connection problems.</p>

<p>That is why I say the only adapter to consider is one that mounts to the hot shoe on camera and flash.</p>

Sometimes I use a bracket to control assorted shots like shadows, reflections, and a few other reasons. However for a wedding for just 10 to 20 people I wouldn't buy a bracket for several reasons such as the weight and the cost. I sometimes use a bracket to achieve a certain light effect, but again, I'd practice using a regular flash and practicing bouncing the light and avoid direct light for close-ups; without a bracket.

 

If you wish to get into the wedding bizz I'm using "Just Rite, " brackets and they are built like a tank.

 

I'm also using 2 styles of strobes, both are Quantums 1 of them can be mounted on your flash shoe the other needs to be placed on a bracket. With your SB-700 I wouldn't mess with a bracket, because during the learning curve you may miss some great shots.

 

By the way, a decent bracket can run around $400 or more, depending on all of the toy's that can go with the bracket.

 

Post a few photo's after your wedding!