Which film is best for Holga beginner?

hello again. I was wondering which kind of 120 film is best for a

beginner like me.

 

Also, when i load and unload the film, does it have to be done in a

dark place or under regular lighting situations, does it matter? i've

heard/read a few things, so i just want to make sure.

 

Thanks.

Just don't load/unload in direct sunlight, but otherwise don't worry. Film wise, I would start with a 400 speed color negative that allows alot of latitude for exposure "errors". After a while, you'll get a feeling for your actual shutter speed in the camera, and the light needed to get the good images on film.<p>

Now, I shoot the film and develop it according to how dark it was outside (B&W).

my favorite b&w Holga film has always been the Fuji 400 film...

for color I always use expired films: Fuji NHGII 800 or Kodak 400UC.

 

If I were you... I wouldn't use anything lower than 400 in speed.

 

The Polaroid back for the Holga is also a great tool to help you get the feel of the HOLGA.... that's what I used when I first got my Holga. You have instant results and you can see if you are doing things right. The Polaroid back for the Holga uses 80 series Polaroid films.

The extremely colorful negative films mentioned make sense to me. But I'd maybe pick any slightly outdated ISO 400 film cheaply for a 1st test. If you don't like to process B&W yourself get XP2 for home or Kodak C41 processed film for lab printing.

 

Make sure to hold the roll rather tight when you're unloading the camera and glue it together.

My current favorite Holga films: Fuji NPH, Fuji Neopan 400, Fuji Velvia 100 (Crossed or push-processed) and Kodak's chromogenic film.

 

The only real worry that I can see with unloading your film is that sometimes the takeup spool in the Holga will very loosely wind the film on the spool and some edge fogging can occur. Most of the newer Holgas have a sponge pad on the takeup side that helps to keep the spool and winding tighter. But, as suggested above, it's not a bad idea to load and unload in subdued light until you get a feel for it. Also, here's a few links to guide you on your Holga journey. And don't forget to post some of your first images. Have fun!

 

http://www.toycamera.com/

 

http://www.holgamods.com/

 

mdd

I usually buy whatever outdated 120 film is avalable in the big box on the counter at <a style="text-decoration:underline" href="http://www.helixcamera.com">Helix Camera</a>.

<p>

But then again, I've mostly stopped shooting 120 with the Holga in favor of the Polaroid back.

Melissa,

 

I just got my first Holga about 3 months ago. I pretty much always shoot B&W and have had great results with Ilford HP5 and Kodak Tri-X (both 400 speed films). Loading the film in the same conditions you would any other camera (no direct sun light). Enjoy!

Thanks for all the suggestions. i look forward to trying them all. i'm still kinda scared about loading and unloading the film. Even though i keep rereading the instructions on how to load and unload, it seems kinda confusing. i'm afraid i might mess up and ruin the film. I think i just have to get a little more familiar with the holga's parts. am i worrying over nothing? am i making it harder than it really is?

 

Jochen Schrey mentioned that i should hold the roll rather tight when i'm unloading the camera and glue it together. i don't really know what that means. i've never done it before, so it sounds a little hard. i'm afraid of messing up.

 

Jochen Schrey you also mention that you process your own b&w film, and i even read about this in the holga manual i picked up today at Freestyle. i haven't had a chance to see how to do it though. i was wondering, can i just have my b&w film developed at a photo lab or do i have to develop it myself?

 

Also, what do you guys suggest for moving the format arrow on the back from sixteen to twelve? I know the manual says to use a screwdriver, but that didn't work for me, and plus, i also kind of damaged the red window a little bit. It's more of a knick, but still, will this affect anything? And what do i do if i really damage it? Any suggestions?

 

Again thanks for all the feedback.

All I can say is be careful when you move it from 16 to 12.

If you puncture the red filter, you tape over it and remember to advance the film at least 36 clicks between each frame.

OR..

You can buy new back on EBAY.

They are about 5 or 6 dollars plus shipping.

 

All I can say is just don't load your Holga in direct sun but you needn't do it in total darkness either. I do it in a dark corner of my home.

 

I would suggest ASA 400 film too.

 

I look forward to seeing stuff from you.

 

Good Luck!

 

Brian

Any out dated 400 or 800asa 120 neg film , I buy a loot of Fuji NPZ 800 cheap and like the

film a loot.

 

www.micbach.dk.............."Photography workshop in Spain"

"Keeping the film tight" means: don't let the film unravel as you feed it onto the opposite spool, which could expose it to light and thus cause light leaks. One suggestion is to have a film that you practise with before you load a working roll. You can load it, wind it through, unwind it and try and try again again until you are happy that you can load the film successfully, then throw the film away (because you will have exposed it during the unwinding process.

 

I'm an Ilford XP2 or Fuji 400CN fan myself, if that's any help.

 

You might like to read through older Holga posts in the Holga section, which you'll find over on the right hand side of the page. We all had the same questions as beginners and there may be other questions that reading older posts will answer, even before you think of them! ;-)

Kodak 400 UC, I love it.

I've used a Holga for about 3 years...the great thing about it is it is very easy to use. Don't let the rollfilm thing scare you, once the film is in the camera it is pretty foolproof. I don't develop my own film, and anything less than asa 400 comes back under exposed. Freestyle photo has fresh B&W film (Arista edu) for less than a buck-and-a half a roll, and it works just fine with the Holga. It has a black backing paper, though, which is not as easy to read the frame numbers through the red window as the Fuji's white or Kodak's yellow paper. Plenty of mail order places process and print very reasonably, too, like Vermont Color Lab or Dwayne's Photo.

Each camera is a bit different but I find any 400 ISO negative film is good (color or b/w).

 

This is one done with Fuji NPH 400 with a simple point-and-shoot approach.

 

Amazing!<div></div>