Which Canon FD 35 f2?

Now that I'm taking advice and looking for the Canon FD 35mm f/2, i realize there are several! Are they all good? Which one has the

concave front and thorium elements, and is that really the superior one? Apparently the newest version (52mm threads) is lighter and

more compact - pretty cool if the quality of the lens is as good.

 

Thanks!

Jim

<p>try this link http://www.lummukka.com/canonfd35.html</p>

<p>The 35mm f2.0 nFD the one with the bayonet mount is very sharp and matches the newer 50mm lenses in contrast and color redition.<br>

The early Chrome Nose and the first two versions of the Locking ring style mount have the concave thorium front element. Is extremely sharp and depending on the state of the amber tint these pickup over time as the glue in the elements degrades can be very very warm for color film and will have nice high contrast for B&W. Normally this lens is sought after by people wanting to shoot B&W with it.</p>

 

<p>All versions of the FD 35/2 are excellent lenses, so you can't really go too far wrong.</p>

<p>I have a beat-up concave-front SSC, and a later FDn. In practice, I only use the concave-front lens with black-and-white film, because of lens discoloration. It's one more 35 than I need, and I'd be happy with just the FDn.</p>

<p>To identify the concave-front lens, look at the aperture ring. Any 35/2 FD lens which only goes up to 16 is concave. This includes chrome-nose lens and early SSC lenses. If it goes up to 22, it's the later design. You can see the effects of the lens discoloration <a href="../canon-fd-camera-forum/00K6VZ">in this old thread</a>.</p>

What is nFD or FDn? What does it look like?

 

Actually based on the table in the link Henning posted, I'm drawn to the latest (1979) version because it's light. That's

assuming that it performs at least as well as the famous concave front thorium yellow glass one (I will shoot b&w). I

think I read somewhere that the thorium glass provides superior contrast.

Duh, now I see in Henning's table, the FDn is the "new FD" that is lighter and that is the one Dave likes. I'm slow

today.

Can you tell if it's an FDn by thread size (52)?

<p>Mark, Does the UV treatment for the 35/2 with the concave front element clear just the glass and not the glue?</p>

<p>James, FD and New FD (FDn) lenses have the same mount but different mounting mechanisms. FD lenses, which are sometimes called "breechlock" mount, have a metal mounting ring that you turn while mounting (the barrel remaining stationary relative to the camera body). FDn lenses, called "bayonet" mount, are mounted by turning the barrel relative to the camera body. Like newer EF lenses, they lock into place, but their release button is on the mounting ring itself, and not on the camera body as it is with EF/EOS.</p>

<p>If you scroll down to the bottom of this <a href="http://www.dvxuser.com/V6/showthread.php?145598-Cant-set-the-aperture-on-Canon-FD-lens">webpage</a>, you'll see a couple of images contrasting these two "mounts."</p>

<p>Generally speaking, FD lenses have more robust build quality than FDn lenses, but are heavier and bulkier. The older lenses tend to have more metal, the newer ones more plastic. And yes, their filter thread diameter is different, with FD at 55mm and FDn at 52mm.</p>

<p>Some FD/FDn brethren share the same optical formula (e.g., 50/1.4, 50/3.5 macro, TSE 35/2.8), and others do not. Several of the fast primes are available as FDn only.</p>

<p>The designations "SC" and "SSC" refer to the lens coatings, "Spectra Coating" and "Super Spectra Coating," respectively. There are two complicating factors here. While all<em> </em>FD lenses have either SC or SSC coatings, none of the earliest versions (such as the so-called chrome noses) is labeled as such. Also, apart from the 50/1.8 (I believe), <em>all</em> FDn lenses are SSC, but they are not labeled as such.</p>

<p>The <a href="http://www.canon.com/camera-museum/camera/lens/index.html">Canon Camera Museum</a> is an excellent resource for information on (almost) all of Canon's lenses and bodies (though it doesn't cover accessories). I've linked to the "Lenses" contents page.</p>

<p>nFD means the new FD lenses without chrom rings, built from 1979 onwards.</p>

<p>I just finished posting in your other thread warning about this lol :) Fact is, its an awesome lens, and I suspect that the newest one is the result of whatever Canon learned over the years since it apparently has a different optical formula. Why? I don't know, I have NEVER heard anything but praise for any of these lenses. Excellent all around standard lens if you like to see the world a little more "inclusively" :)</p>

<blockquote>

<p>FDn lenses, called "bayonet" mount</p>

</blockquote>

<p>It is called that sometimes, but it actually is not true. If FDn was a bayonet mount, it wouldn't be compatible with FD; you wouldn't be able to mount FDn lenses on FD cameras or vice versa. FD and FDn are not actually different lens mounts; the only difference is in the way the breechlock is locked and unlocked on the lens, which the camera knows nothing about. On FDn lenses, rather than having a narrow breechlock ring at the base of the lens, essentially the lens' entire outer body is the breechlock ring. This gives the user an experience more similar to that of using a bayonet mount without actually being one.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Can you tell if it's an FDn by thread size (52)</p>

</blockquote>

<p>The basic difference is that an FDn lens doesn't have the silver ring at the base.</p>

<p>In the specific case of the FD/FDn 35mm f/2 lens, there are a few clues that you can use to distinguish between different versions. The easiest and perhaps most important one is whether the lens stops down to f/22 or only to f/16. The older lenses with the concave front element and thoriated glass stop down only to f/16. These lenses are also likely to have a visibly yellowish tint if you look through them; some more so than others. They can be further subdivided by what coating indicator is written on the front (SSC, SC, or no mention of coating). The earliest ones have chrome noses, in contrast to the more common black noses.</p>

<p>My 35mm f/2 is an early chrome-nose copy with no SC or SSC designation. It is distinctly yellowish, but not so badly that it can't be used for color shooting. Sometimes on bright sunny days I rather like using it outdoors. The effect isn't the same as a warming filter, but it's not as severe as a regular yellow filter either.</p>

<p>Jeff its always been my understanding that the glass itself does not change color its the Balsam Glue that takes on the tint. And it is that tint that can be altered with the UV method. I'm in the group that thinks the lenses should be used as is and cherished as being so great for B&W.</p>

<p>The FDn/nFD lenses will work with the 'automatic' exposure systems on such cameras as the AE-1 Program and the T-90, also.</p>

<p>If you have the very late model FD system cameras, you want the FDn lenses with a green 'A' on the aperture ring of the lens.</p>

<p>Mark, I gave my 35/2 FD SSC 1st version the UV treatment and use it even with color slide film. I also have four 35/2 FD SSCs. I used my US NAVY model on Sunday. <br>

JDM, Why can't all FD lenses be used with with "automatic" exposure on the AE-1 or T-90? </p>

<p>For shutter speed-preferred shooting, the mechanism for stopping down/opening up the aperture on the lens needs to be there. You <em>can</em> use the older lenses, but not automatically.</p>

<p>I have to find my working A-1, which I do not use often. With the Servo EE finder you can use the older FD lenses in Shutter Priority. I don't have a motor or winder for my F-1Ns so I use them in Aperture Priority or match needle manual. The origional AE-1 came out in 1976. New FD lenses did not appear until 1979. How did the AE-1 work in Shutter Priority with an FD SC or FD SSC lens? </p>

<p>Glass will certainly become colored by exposure to radiation. That's not to say that the cements used between the lens elements will also discolor. It's quite possible it's some combination of both.</p>

<p>How I know this: many years ago I worked in a place which had a <em>very</em> hot cobalt-60 gamma source, like active enough that it was kept behind two feet of lead, and operated by remote control. If you took an ordinary piece of glassware, say a Pyrex flask, and left it in there for a day or two, the glass would come out the color of Coca-Cola. It was really remarkable.</p>

<p>On the topic of FDn versus breechlock: the difference is the FDn mount will last your lifetime. The FD breechlock mount will last your children's lifetime.</p>

<p>Not the AE-1, the AE-1 <strong><em>Program</em></strong>. Despite the similarity of appearance and name, it was a whole new camera.</p>

<p>It's not shutter-preferred exactly, it's shutter AND aperture set under "Program"<br>

The "program" idea debuted on the A-1 which came out first.</p>

<p>@Jeff: all FD lenses can be used with automatic exposure on AE-1 and AE-1program and T90. There is no problem and no difference between the old and the new FD lenses when it comes to that.</p>

<p>Now I will have to get an AE-1 program and try this out. At one time I thought about getting an AE-1 Program just for the ability to interchange focusing screens. Once I got F-1/F-1n/F-1N cameras I lost interest in the AE-1 Program. I thought I used breech lock FD lenses with my working A-1 in shutter priority but I will need to check that too. </p>

<p><strong>OT:</strong> I just gave my FD Pre-SCC, chrome-nose, concave front 35mm f/2 the sun/UV treatment for six weeks in a window, with silver foil around the front element and the rear (that's were the radioactive element lives) of the lens facing the window. It cleared up well! </p>

<p>I liked it a bit yellow for B&W but I don't shoot much 35mm B&W anymore so it was just sitting unused. Now I can use it for color too and my first test roll was excellent. </p>

<p>I am so encouraged by my result, I now have my Pentax SMC Takumar 50mm f/1.4 in the window. </p>

I find it interesting that glass that has been exposed to radiation is corrected by exposing it to radiation. But it sure

does work. Any nuclear geniuses out there?

<p>You can shoot "automatically" with the older lenses, but you have to set the aperture <em>manually</em> if you're not using lenses with the 'green A' on them, right?<br>

I personally wouldn't call that fully automatic, but whatever pleases you.</p>