What VueScan settings (Negative Brand and Negative Type) to use for NPH 400 and CZ-3 (aka S-800)?

More generally, has anyone examined what profiles work best for the

various Fuji films that have been introduced in the last few years?

Generic seems to work not too badly.

I've had the best luck using the generic profile and the "auto levels" setting for color (instead of white balance).

Try <a href="http://www.photofocus.com/zine7/scanfilm.html">this simple negative scanning technique</a> described by Scott Bourne. It works for me everytime.

I have had good results with Superia 800 (the current four-layer version) using the "Reala (Japan)" setting. Generic also works, but "Reala (Japan)" may give more accurate color. I have never used the older Superia 800, but I have shot and scanned a lot of the old 3-layer Supera 400 (which is the same as Super G+ 400). The "Super G 400" setting worked well for that.

 

<p>For various reasons, Ed Hamrick can't include profiles for the latest Fuji films. So it's a matter of trial and error, with "Generic" always a good starting point.

As I understand it, the purpose of the canned neg film settings is to provide the correct colour correction for the orange mask of each film type. The basis of the Scott Bourne approach would seem to be a do-it-yourself orange mask correction.

 

You can really nail down the orange mask for the exact film you are using following these simple steps <a href="http://hamrick.com/vuescan/html/vuesc4.htm#topic3">Advance Workflow</a>.

Is it possible to get anythere the color targets like Kodak Q60 for negative films?

 

I scan nothing but slides after I created all the custom profiles like I said here:

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=004Ek9

 

And results are incretible! It finally produces something that needs minimal amount of work in photoshop now!

 

But for negatives it`s the same problem - just becouse the mask for film base is not the all you need - you need curves for all the colors you may have and it is the big fat problem.

And other issue - it looks like all slide scanners do produce the best results in color slide scan mode. I tried to scan the same negative film in negative and positive modes and at the second time I was consistently getting much better results with much more details in the shadows.

I could not get the old NPH to scan well with vuescan. The

advanced workflow procedure together with generic color

negative seemed to give alright results, but nothing compared to

my darkroom prints.

 

The NEW NPH, however, scans pretty well. I use the advanced

workflow options with the Reala Japan 100 profile, color: Neutral.

It just takes a bit of tweaking to the neutral color points and the

mask colors from there to get a decent scan. You should try

shooting a grey card and/or color checker. Then follow the

advanced workflow options, do a prescan of the frame with the

grey card, adjust the color settings to get a neutral grey. Save

your settings. You should now be pretty close to getting what you

shot on the rest of your frames. It is alot of trial and error but I

still prefer scanning negs to shooting slides.

 

To the poster who said he got more shadow detail when

scanning a neg as a slide, there's no reason you should have

that result if you are setting your black point manually, ie, not

clipping any shadow detail.