What to see and do in Paris.

Hi all,

The girlfriend and I will be spending a weekend in Paris in December

and I was wondering if anyone could give me some pointers on what

areas and sights not to miss, and also any photography-related places

that I should see. Money will be tight so I won't be shopping a lot,

but I don't want to miss out on a rare oppurtunity - I hear that there

are very many photography stores in Paris.

 

I'm planning on taking film no faster than ISO400. How do you think

that film will fare after dark and without a tripod? I'm hesitant to

take any faster film than that because of concerns about X-Ray

machines and suchlike.

 

Also, is anyone aware of any great street markets or suchlike that

take place over weekends in December?

 

Thanks a lot.

Hmmmm. What to see and do in Paris...

 

I've heard there is a giant tower of some kind. Maybe you have to be a local to know about it though...

 

:p

 

Get a guidebook, fer chrissakes!!

I've bought a guide book, and I've read numerous sites such as Lonely Planet, Rough Guide etc etc, but what's the harm in asking on a forum, fer chrissakes?!

 

Come on, make with the advice.

If you can get an all day or all weekend Metro Pass buy one and ride the busses. There used to be ones with open, stand up back platforms and also double deckers. Both great ways to take a quick tour of Paris with many photo ops. Also I have read of an elevated track near the Bastille that has been converted to a pedestrian walkway with small stores in the ground floor of the viaduct. The Place des Voges, Montmartre, and Ile St Louis are also scenic. I stayed away from the camera stores so can offer no info. How about a report when you come back?

Pardon my spelling of place-names; I am on the road this weekend. There are good free aerial views from the roof of the Institute du Monde Arab, the Samartine Dept store,and the steps of the church at Montmartre. The elevated walkway near the Bastile as mentioned above is nice, alto not real photogenic. Open air concerts are likely at the Place du Vosges in the Marais.

 

Photo stores are fairly expensive (even by the Fairbanks Alaska standards which I am used to). Most of the traditional ones are along Av Beaumarchais near the Bastille. FNAC near the old Les Halles is good for fairly cheap film and new discount stuff (in-so-far as the term "discount" can ever apply).

Marais district for sure. Almost anywhere else for good street shooting.<div></div>

Head for the centre (I like the area around Notre Dame) as a starting point and just walk. Any direction, main streets and back streets, parks, along the river, anywhere that grabs your interest ... You can wander Paris for days and still find more to see. Comfortable shoes and loads of film are all you need.

<br>

<a href="http://contaxg.com/document.php?id=16361&full=1">Street life near Notre Dame</a>

<br>

<a href="http://contaxg.com/document.php?id=16767&full=1">Touristy view from Notre Dame</a>

<br>

<a href="http://contaxg.com/document.php?id=9824&full=1">Inside the Louvre</a>

400 ISO won't be much good after dark hand-held. There's a lot of dark in December. Either you can take a tripod, take a risk on the X Rays or take a reduced risk by buying fast film there- which isn't hard, or push the film. There are several threads on here about buying film in Paris.

 

What to photograph. Well I have little desire to duplicate your guidebook but you might want to think about the following if it is photographs you're after and not simply tourism with a camera.

 

Rex Cinema

Passages north of Bourse ( especially Jouffroy/Verdeau)

Butte aux Cailles area in 13th

The stairways on the north side of the Butte Montmartre.

The old courtyards off the Rue de Faubourg St Antoine and Passage L'Homme off Ave. Ledru Rollin (11th)

The arcades round the gardens of the Palais Royale

The riverside walk round the edge of the Isle St Louis.

Pere Lachaise cemetary

 

Get a week ( or whatever) Metro/bus pass.

I did not know there were Martians coming to Earth and the hamlet of Paris, Idaho so soon.

 

Where are you from? You mean Paris Idaho, right? or? Just google for that. Please; and do not swear at us who are amazed at the audacity of needing a guide to Paris, Idaho.

 

I heard it in my school that Paris, France is well known, widely imaged etc in 99.9 percent of humans from earth.

 

So to be polite, I would not even try answer your question for Paris, France here. Am I assuming correctly?

Rough Guide is my favorite for advice on local culture, not just nightlife hotspots and cheap beer. Don't miss the bookstalls on the Seine, and the Friday night skate around the Tower.

I photographed a drunk in a park in Paris, although he was in the distance. I've sold a few copies of this print...<p>

 

<center><img src="http://www.spirer.com/images/park.jpg"><br>

<i>Drunk in Park, Copyright 1999 Jeff Spirer</i></center>

 

If you can't find anything interesting to shoot, there's a lot of postcard vendors in the tourist areas.

<p>View from the top of Sacre Coeur (church on the hill in Montmartre I think) on a misty day (common enough in December) can be breathtaking. Street photography everywhere. The Eifel tower is severely overdone, but if you havn't seen it before it's hard to resist pressing the button once or twice (the view from the top - 1000' up is nice). There are street markets all over, just unremarkable local markets, non-touristy, which are photgenic as hell, the river-boat trips are OK but the river front isn't as interesting as say London as the city is a lot less hi-rise - being on the streets is more interesting. Inside Charles de Gaulle airport has some interesting architecture.

<p><img src="http://www.barrythomas.co.uk/eye-full.jpg">

Hi again,

Thanks everyone for the information. Apart from Frank - I really didn't understand what you posted. I'll definately keep what's been said in mind when planning the weekend. And if I find anything good while I'm over there, I'll be sure to post back. We'll be staying very near Notre Dame, so that's good news.

 

That's a lovely shot, Jeff. Purely out of curiosity, do you know what lens you used for that?

Barry - thanks for the tips - how on earth did you get such a wide field of view for that shot?

 

Regarding using a higher speed film for the afterdark shots. This isn't something that I've looked into before (I'm very, very new to photography). I've been reading around a little and it seems like the following films might be useful:

Fuji Superia 800 or 1600.

Fuji Neopan 1600.

 

I have a few questions though. First, am I right in thinking that Neopan is a b/w film whereas Superia is colour? Furthermore, assuming that I buy the film before the holiday, shoot it in France, and bring it back home for processing, what sort of risk do the airport scanning machines pose for 800 and 1600 films, respectively? Oh - and with regards to using 400 film hand-held after dark, does a 50mm lens make the situation any more favourable? Please excuse my newbieness.

 

Final question for the time being - are the Neopan and Superia films possible to have processed at standard high-street places, generally speaking?

 

Thanks again everyone. Your feedback is hugely appreciated.

Just 6 shots stitched together and reduced down... can't afford a good wide angle! This was just one frame tho... I know the tower is a tourist hotspot but it's a remarkable piece of engineering which was only supposed to stand for the duration of the 1889 exhibition.

<p><img src="http://www.barrythomas.co.uk/legs.jpg">

<i> Purely out of curiosity, do you know what lens you used for that? </i><P>

 

This was taken with a fixed lens rangefinder camera, an Olympus RD, which I believe has a 40mm lens on it. It died a few years ago, so I haven't seen it for a while.

<a href="http://www.moriyamadaido.com/gallery/paris/paris.html" >Daido Moriyama in

Paris</a>

Paris in December will be wet and cold, but there will still be plenty of things to do and see. If the line is not too long (and weather permitting), you should climb up to the top of Notre Dame for a great view of Paris, the close-up view of the intriguing gargoyles alone is worth the effort. About the street markets, ask the locals for the nearest 'Foire a la brocante' or 'Marche aux puces', you can normally find them every Saturday.<p>

 

<center><img src="http://img95.exs.cx/img95/1499/gargoyle.jpg"></center>

Here's my son eating a bagette sandwich under the bridge a block from Notre Dame (in the background) - a little different view of the Seine than you usually see. In May, it was a welcome bit of cool shade, though you won't have that problem in December.<div></div>

It all depends on what you like to photograph -- if you want to shoot people then I'd look

through the LP or Rough Guide for information on markets (especially Christmas markets

which should be kicking off around now). If you want to shoot architecture then you'll want

to tackle the city differently and try out places like La Defense, the Pompidou Centre, the

cemeteries, and so on.

 

Since you only have the weekend and it sounds like you haven't been to Paris before (since

you're asking this question) there's nothing to be lost in spending your time in the Louvre,

the Pompidou Centre, Quai D'Orsay, and so on looking at art and not taking pictures

constantly... There's a small photographers' gallery that had some very interesting work on

display from the apartheid era South Africa (sorry, don't remember the name, but it should

be in the Lonely Planet guide).

 

Paris will get dark much earlier than you are probably used to (unless you live in Europe

already) because it's so much further North than you would think of if you are coming

from North America. As I recall, Rome is on about the same latitude as Toronto, so this

means that in the winter the days are much shorter because you're getting closer to the

Arctic Circle.

 

Personally, I'd recommend taking *mostly* black and white -- Neopan or TriX, your

preference -- and only a few colour rolls for something exceptional. Since Paris (like

London) is mostly grey and damp this time of year the B&W will normally capture the mood

much better and more dramatically than dreary colour photographs. Of course, in a

market things might be very different.

 

ISO 400 sounds ok (1600 ISO film costs so much more) but recognise that it won't work

late at night unless pushed to the point that you'll start to get very contrasty negatives

(which might be fine with you, you just have to expect it). With TriX you can push to 800

and 1600 without too much trouble and a reasonable tradeoff in quality. I probably

wouldn't expect to get too much out of it when pushed to 3200 although it *will* manage

this in a pinch. Really, you'd have a lot more options with a light tripod. Maybe even just a

tiny table-top tripod that you could put on a wall would be enough to get you some shots

at night that are worth keeping.

 

HTH.

David, you have a severely limited time you will be there, and don't forget the toll the time change may have on you. Paris is very congested, if you take public transportation you will waste quite a bit of your allotted time waiting and walking to and fro. If you want to do candid street photography, maybe. But if you want to see the unique Parisian sites, I recommend taking a guided tour. My first visit to Paris we had to layover at DeGaulle en route to Budapest and decided it would be stupid not to see Paris but all we could spare was 2 days. We took a couply city tours, one in the daytime and one at night. There were about six people in a minivan. The driver let us out curbside by the various important sites. So at least we saw the Arc de Triomphe, Place de la Concorde, Eiffel Tower, and the Louvre (at least outside, it'd take days to see inside) and Montmartre. We still had time left to stroll the Rive Gauche, the Champs Elysse and general roaming about on our own on foot once we'd taken a taxi to the general area. I don't know if it has changed, but Paris had a restriction against using a tripod in a public place without a permit. I carried a tabletop tripod, and got lots of night shots bracing it up against whatever vertical thing was handy, like a lamp post.

Some factors to bear in mind :

- Paris is HUGE, and sprawls for miles and miles. It covers a far greater area than cities such as NYC, or London, or Hong Kong, etc. Be prepared to cover distances.

- None of the buildings (other than some in the La Defense district) are higher than 4 or 5 stories.

- Your photography in December will be governed by the weather.

 

Some ideas :

- The 5th, or 6th, floors of the Pompidou Centre (the Inside-Out building) offer great views across the city, and the building itself is worthy of some photos!

- The traffic circulating around the Arc de'Triomphe is incredible and can yield some amazing pics (slow speed, blurred motion).

- The Eiffel Tower (from the ground, 2nd level, or top level) is a must do.

- The Louvre courtyards are often open after dark (people gather in them to talk, meet, eat) and offer excellent architectural pics combined with people, evening light, etc.

- There are numerous points along the Champs de'Elysee which offer good photos opportunities, either in the park area, the streetside cafe's, or down towards the old city.

- La Defense is an ultra-modern district built on the edge of the city, in direct line with the Champs de'Elysee.

- But in the end the best photos are often found when simply walking around the older districts, looking down alleyways and through doorways or along the river Seine. Keep your eyes open, there are photo opportunities around every corner. There is also a lot of potential dusk / night-time photos to be had (street scenes, lit buildings, etc), bear this in mind in your choice of lenses. I actually cannot think of a more photogenic city in the world (except possibly Hong Kong).

"Paris is HUGE, and sprawls for miles and miles. It covers a far greater area than cities such as NYC, or London, or Hong Kong, etc."

 

This simply isn't true. Unless you want to see something pretty specific (Maybe Versailles or St Germain en Laye for example) everything you want to see in Paris as a tourist is within the Peripherique and that's not huge- certainly a more compact area than within London's north /south circulars for example. If you stand at Notre Dame, you're within 3-4 miles of just about everything you'd want to see. Furthermore the Metro system is much more dense than in most large cities and within this area getting around on public transport is easier than in any other large city I'm aware of.

David,

 

How to spend 2 days in Paris... I've been asked that question often, having grown up there myself. In order to save time (2 day's very short), here is an "organized weekend" I'd recommend, based along the axis of the Seine River. This easy tour will allow you to see the main sites in a relatively short time. No subway necessary, only walking shoes.

 

First day: Start from the Arc De Triomphe, down the Champs Elysées, right down to the Place De La Concorde. Two choices: To the Left Bank, through the beautiful Alexandre III bridge, visit the Invalides where Napoleon is buried (that's optional, but don't miss the bridge anyway, it's worth shooting). Right Bank: go through the Place Vendome, to the Opera district. Visit the Opera (I recommend at least 800 asa film), shop at the Galleries Lafayettes, there is a beautiful, huge 19th century stained glass dome at the top floor (it's a tea house). Back to Place de la Concorde: walk down through the Tuillerie Gardens to the Louvre. The Musée d'Orsay is not far (Left Bank) and more manageable. Don't miss at least one of them during your day (or next day).

 

Second day: From the Louvre, follow the Seine (either Bank) to Notre Dame. See the Sainte Chapelle across the street, much smaller and a real jewel (again, fast film recommended). From there, you have a choice: Left Bank to St. Germain, the heart of the Left Bank, where the best open street market is Rue De Buci (metro stop: Odeon). Nearby, the Luxembourg Gardens are very nice. Right Bank: Go to the old Marais district, visit the Place Des Vosges (nice little open air restaurants around the square), Picasso Museum ...

 

 

Oh yes, the Eiffel Tower (slightly out of the way from the Seine): Skip the Arc De Triomphe/Champs Elysée altogether, start from the Trocadero museum (metro stop: Trocadero), go down to the Eiffel Tower (watch for pickpockets), down to the Champs De Mars (long park/gardens) and find your way to the Invalides. From there, you will see the Alexander III bridge I mentioned earlier, go over and start again from Place De La Concorde.

 

Get a map and see what I'm talking about, it's really not that complicated (easy for me to say). Choose your own options. Hope this will help.

 

Have a nice trip!

Very well stated, Olivier. I am in Paris at least once a year (for over 12 years now) and I'm often there in December, as I will be again this year. The weather is usually horrible, cold and rainy -- but hey, it's still Paris!

 

David, Olivier's list should be perfect for you. The only thing I would add for a first timer in Paris is the requisite Champs Elysees with holiday lights in the trees and the Arc de Triomphe in the background. Try around Avenue George V.

 

You are about to visit the most photographed city in the world (I read that somewhere). Get up early and get out in the streets. It will start getting dark around 4:00 so you will have precious little light for shooting. Have a great time. I know you will.

The last time I was in Paris I used B&W 400 ASA film and primes (f/2,f/1.4). This combination gave me the opportunity to also make photo's (without tripod) in nighttime. Especially around the Champs Elyssees the amount of lighting is more than enough.