what Stroboframe for me?

Discussion in 'Nikon' started by armando_roldan, Aug 2, 2005.

  1. Actaully, it doesn't have to be Stroboframe since any companies flash
    attachment frame will work,according to what I seen advertised. I got
    a couple of F100s with SB-28 and Dh2 with a SB 600 and when I do
    shoot a event/wedding type deal, I use my cameras tilted at 90
    degrees about 75% of the time. Anyone got any suggestions? I also use
    a SC-17 if I feel I need to shoot way off camera for a desired
    affect. ..what exactly are *anti-twist* supports/frames?.........
  2. Stroboframe Press T and Pro T models are excellent. Work very well and reasonably priced. Also have a look at:


    this is also an excellent product. You will need the SC-17 cord with any flash bracket you buy since the flash is mounted to the bracket and must be attached to the camera hot shoe.

    The anti twist plates are plates which mount on top of the bracket into which you then mount the flash. Essentially, it keeps the flash facing forward; without the anti twist plate you need to be certain that the flash does not twist while mounted to the bracket and end up facing other than dead ahead.

    If money is no object, have a look at the Really Right Stuff flash bracket; costs a fortune, but is incredibly well made.
  3. I'm in the same boat, and with a wedding coming up Friday. I've checked out several of the cheaper Stroboframes and none of 'em was suitable for my D2H and SB-800. Either the flash flips the wrong way (underneath the camera) when the D2H is held vertically, or the foam covered grips interfere with holding and controlling the camera.

    The Pro-RL and RL-2000 models might work but I haven't handled them personally yet - I'm visiting another store tomorrow to try them.

    I know the top of the line Custom Brackets will work fine but they're very expensive. By the time you buy the custom mounting plates, anti twist plates, etc., you're in for around $250 or so.

    However Custom Brackets makes a simpler "Junior" model that goes for less than $100 locally. I'm hoping I can try one of these tomorrow as well.

    One of the niftiest Stroboframes I've seen is the VH 2000 but it's suitable only for fairly small SLRs. It might do fine with an F100 but it's just a little too small for the D2H.
  4. Lex - when I use the Strobo Press T, I just reverse the bracket for my F5. D2H and D2x - allows you to use the vertical shutter release.

    But - I am now using the RRS bracket....VERY expensive, but worth every penny. Only problem with the RRS (and some other brackets)is that if you own the SC-29 cord with the "eye" remaining on the hotshoe, the bracket itself interferes with the infrared beam sent out by the SC-29. Before you upgrade from the SC-17 or SC28 cords to the SC-29, make certain that the 29 will be able to shoot its beam past the bracket.
  5. I like a semicircular rotator, like as JustRite or Custom Brackets bracket. My first (and last) strobodrame flip bracket cut right through a Nikon SC-17 sync cord as if it had a built in pair of wire cutters.
  6. Eric, yup, I already have the SC-29 cord so I definitely want to be sure it functions properly with a flash bracket.

    If I can't find a less expensive bracket that I'm fully satisfied with I'll go ahead and buy one of the better Custom Brackets. If I decide I'm not getting enough use from it I can always resell it. They're so well made that it's unlikely I'd wear out or damage one in my lifetime.
  7. I really liked the Strobo Camera-Flip with the F100 and SB28. The camera rotates on the bracket with your right hand; the bracket and flash stay in the same place. I don't know if it would fit a D2H though. It didn't fit my F5 or S2 so try one before you buy it.

    The anti-twist plates just keep the camera and flash from rotating on the bracket. If your flash gets bumped and rotates a little on the one screw that holds it on the bracket, it might be off enough to not light the whole frame. I used them with both flash and camera.
  8. F100 - Press T is more compact; F5, D2 sized bodies - Pro T

    Since you have both an F100 and a D2H, then go for the bigger Pro-T

    Anti-twist - (body) used between the base of the camera body and the mount of the Pro-T/Press-T. Its purpose is to prevent your camera body from twisting while on the bracket.

    Anti-twist - (flash) used to mount the flash on the bracket - its purpose is to prevent your flash from twisting while on the bracket.
  9. I bought a Custom Bracket's brand "CB Junior" yesterday after trying it with my D2H, SB-800 and SC-29 cord. And I had a chance to work with it that night at a wedding rehearsal. I think it's a keeper.

    In the $100 and under range it's the best I've found for a camera this size. It's very study, made of more rigid milled anodized aluminum than the Stroboframes in this price range. In fact, it's made to the same quality as the expensive Custom Bracket models, tho' without the custom camera mounting plates, quick releases, etc.

    The bottom of the bracket where it attaches to the camera body at the tripod socket is wider than any comparably priced Stroboframe. Since it's a friction fit - with four strips of grippy cork or rubber, I can't tell which - the wider attachment area helps with a deep bodied camera like the D2H. A coin is needed to tighten the slotted bolt because it fits flush with the bottom of the bracket. This isn't as inconvenient as it may sound - the flush fit and a swing out extension ensures the camera can sit upright without tipping over when set on a flat surface.

    Like any friction fit flash bracket this one needs to be tightened quite a bit to prevent twisting. I had to retighten it once during the two or three hour rehearsal.

    The vertical post is covered with foam, presumably for a gripping surface, tho' I doubt many folks would hold it this way. The important thing is, the post is located well forward of the D2H palm swell grip on the right side, ensuring the bracket does not interfere with normal holding of the camera and operation of controls. The camera can also be held and used as intended in the vertical position.

    A post-within-a-column design, the vertical post is adjustable for elevation to clear the prism of most SLRs and should be able to clear the D2H prism even with the wireless unit attached.

    The flippy top part where the flash goes has several holes to allow mounting the flash in the needed or desired position, whether directly over the lens or in another location. The bracket is provided with a standard 1/4" bolt with a knurled grip for attaching a flash like the SB-800 to a cord like the SC-29, which has a 1/4" socket in the flash mounting module. For other mounting options one would need to buy a shoe from Custom Brackets.

    I need to use a bit of masking tape doubled over itself to prevent the flash module from twisting out of position on the flip top. An ordinary washer from a hardware store would be a cheap and more elegant solution. A rubber O-ring would probably be best to prevent damage, altho' a soft metal locking washer might hold better. We'll see. For now, tho', the tape works well enough. I might try a bit of double stick tape on the bottom attachment as well.

    The flip top is slightly spring loaded so there's some resistance to flopping around. It's very steady and secure with the camera in the horizontal position but it is possible for the top plate and flash to accidentally flop the wrong way if mishandled in the vertical position. But that's true of many brackets, other than the more expensive Custom Brackets which offer quite a bit of resistance to twisting from horizontal to vertical mode.

    Anyway, it's a very good bracket for the money and was affordable enough that I don't feel like I've wasted money even tho' I won't be using it very often. I wouldn't mind renting a top of the line Custom Bracket but I just don't have enough use for one to justify spending over $200.
  10. Kind of depends how you like to hold the camera whilst shooting also. It also depends on whether you prefer a flip style model, or a camera rotating model that can be mounted on a tripod.

    I got a Strobo Pro RL recently and find that this offers the greatest flexability for me in that it can be used with my F100 and Bronica ETRS, in conjunction with my Nikon Speedlight and Metz 45CL.

    It also gives you quite a bit of flash height which many of the others dont. IMO if the flash is mounted too close the the camera there it starts to defeat the effect of having the bracket.

    The downside is that it is a little bigger - the weight isnt a real issue as most of it comes from the camera.
  11. This is an OLD thread but IMHO still relevant, since I just had this discussion with a student.

    I have two brackets
    #1 - Stroboframe Camera-Flip
    #2 - Custom Brackets, older version of the QRS-E2

    I like the idea of flipping ONLY the camera. This is because I view supporting a flash by the foot, when holding the flash on its side, puts a lot of strain on the foot, and makes it easier to break the foot.

    Here are my comments of and experience with both brackets

    Stroboframe Camera-Flip
    • There is no anti-twist (AT) bracket for the flash shoe :(
      • I use a dedicated camera to flash cable, so I do not use the generic cold shoe, which has an AT pin.
      • But the shoe on the top of the cable will sometime twist on the bracket, as I rotate the head of the flash, to bounce on the walls.
      • I searched but could not find an AT bracket for the flash cable.
      • An AT bracket would keep the flash body pointed where it should be, without having to torque down so hard on the screw holding the shoe onto the bracket.
      • The only solution that I could think of is to use a thin sheet of soft rubber (maybe electrical tape), to add more friction between the bracket and the shoe.
    • You should/need to get the AT bracket for the camera.
      • The camera will tend to twist on the bracket as you rotate the camera.
      • The rubber on my bracket did not provide enough friction to grip the camera well enough to prevent it from twisting.
    • If you primarily support the camera with your right hand, the camera will start to rotate. Gravity causing the bracket to move down.
      • So you have to learn to hold and support the bracket with your left hand.
      • Not a major problem, but it became a major irritation, for me :(
    • The camera rotation mechanism takes a bit to get used to how it works. Once you get the hang of it, it is fine.
    • Street price of about $20 is affordable and absolutely great. :D
    Custom Brackets - QRS-E2
    • It is a tall bracket, which helps to eliminate red-eye better than a shorter bracket. But being tall makes it more clumsy to handle.
    • It has 3 feet, so you can stand it on a table, without it falling over as easily as the Stroboframe would.
      • But the feet also makes it difficult to pack, because the feet stick out, and it does not lay flat.
    • Unlike the Stroboframe, there is an anti-twist for my Nikon flash cable :)
    • The CB uses a rotational mechanism to rotate the camera, unlike the levers on the Stroboframe. So the camera does not rotate unless you make it rotate :)
    • It is expensive. At over $200, it is more than 10x the cost of the Stroboframe :(
      • That $200 is just the bracket. You NEED additional parts at more $$.
      • Is it worth more than 10x the cost of the Stroboframe? For many hobbyist, likely NOT. For me, obviously it was, since I bought it, and use it.
    If you use the Arca Swiss mount/L-bracket on your camera, you can put an AS clamp onto the Stroboframe or buy an AS clamp for the Custom Bracket.
    I use the AS mount because it makes attaching and removing the camera easier and faster than fussing with a wing screw on the tripod socket.
  12. I have had several Stroboframe brackets, but settled on a bracket by Really Right Stuff (WPF-QR2 Folding Flash Bracket with Sliding Mount). It is very sturdy, folds flat for easy storage and transport, and attaches to an Arca-style plate instantly and free of twisting and rotation. Bulk and the threaded connection are my main problems with Stroboframe brackets.

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