What older manual 35mm camera is the best to purchase? price max out at 350

<p>Hi!<br>

Ok so I am relatively new to 35 mm film cameras and I am in the market of purchasing one. I currently am shooting with digital and I am really looking for a more intimate experience. I want a camera that is older, heavy and fully manual. I have been looking at two that I am especially interested in and I wanted the opinion of more experienced people as to which one I should get. The two I am looking at are the Leica Leitz III (3c) and the Nikon F2. Please help!<br>

I am also fully open to any other suggestions regarding older cameras (a.k.a. which you think are the best, and also I need recommendations for lenses for whichever you choose)<br>

Thank you so much!<br>

p.s. my price range for the camera max. out at 350 dollars.</p>

<p>Are you more interested in a rangefinder like the Leica or a SLR like the Nikon?</p>

<p>If you get a camera like a Nikon F2 then you will not be able to also get many lenses for your total of $350. If you can get a camera like a Canon FTbN or a Nikkormat FT2 for $75 to $100 and then spend another $100 or so to get it overhauled you will have $150 left to spend on lenses. For the Canon a good starter set would be a 28/2.8 FD SC, a 50/1.8 FD SC and a 100/2.8 FD SSC. For the Nikkormat you might look for a 28/3.5 AI, a 50/2 HC or later and a 105/2.5 (any lens marked in mm).<br>

If you just want to experiment you can get a Vivitar V4000 or V4000S with a 50mm lens for$25 to $50. These have K mounts and will accept a wide variety of Pentax an other K mount lenses. My favorite slower 50mm lenses are the 55/1.8 SMC Pentax and 55/2 SMC Pentax models. Even the slow 35-70 kit lens which comes with the Vivitar cameras isn't half bad but an f/1.8 or F/2 standard lens will make focusing in lower light easier.</p>

<p>The Leica screwmount rangefinders are a very different experience from a single-lens reflex like the Nikon. They also have appeal to obsessive collectors, which means some accessories are crazy expensive. Things like hundred dollar lens hoods -- just insane! You really should try out a Leica screwmount before committing to it.<br>

Another Leica screwmount approach would be a Canon P or 7 rangefinder, which is in your budget. Not as small or light, but a much more modern design, nice finders.<br>

Nikon F and F2 are tank cameras. However, the meterless prism is rare and pricey -- could use up over a third of your budget. The metered prism is bulky and prone to irreparable failures in the meter circuit.<br>

Nikon is a good choice since your lenses can be re-used with their digital SLRs. But you really want to use at least "AI" lenses and cameras to do that. A Nikon FM or FM2 could be a great choice.<br>

Another approach would be Pentax K-mount cameras. Huge variety of lenses, and Pentax makes excellent ones. However, anything older than a Pentax-A lens is awkward to use on their digital SLRs. Pentax-A lenses are fetching high prices used for that reason.<br>

If you don't have any interest in ever re-using the lenses on a digital SLR, consider Minolta (MC and MD mount) and Canon (FD mount). Both of these mounts were orphaned in the transition to autofocus, making used lenses really cheap.</p>

<p>I can't pronounce on the two you listed. I can recommend the Canon F-1N (latest model) without the AE finder. It's a big heavy pro camera, takes modern batteries, and you should be able to find one in good condition for around that price. Keep in mind also that any older camera should have a CLA done soon, you'll want to factor that into your price. Being a dead-end system, the Canon FD mount lenses are a lot cheaper now than Nikkor or Leica lenses.</p>

<p>(Psst.... I can also recommend the Nikon F4, though I probably shouldn't say so too loudly on this forum. Said to be the best manual focus camera Nikon ever made. I love mine, I just wish I could afford more lenses for it! It's more modern than the others mentioned, your choice of metering modes and metering patterns, all of which can easily be ignored; set the camera to manual and fire away.)</p>

<blockquote>

<p>looking for a more intimate experience. I want a camera that is older, heavy and fully manual.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Leica is light, Nikon F2 is not fully manual.<br>

Get yourself an original Contax. Heavy, fully manual, older and you will get very intimate experience. Price is higher than $350 but not much.</p>

<p>you guys are wonderful for getting back to me so quickly. ok so I have decided the leica is out for now. so for the nikon, what one would you recommend more? I have looked at the fm-10 and its ok. but what else do you think?</p>

<p>what minolta is best for me?</p>

<p> Your two candidates cover a lot of ground.</p>

<p> In Leica, I much prefer the M3. Leicas sing in one's hands. But this is way over budget.</p>

<p>I love the Nikon F2 (around $160-300 @ KEH) and while we're talking heavy, I should mention the Nikon F (I presently have 6 or 7). You can find one in EX condition for $200 at KEH right now.</p>

<p>The F3 might be a little too electronic for you, but they rock, and can be found at around $200.</p>

<p>I love the Nikon FM-2n, and FM-3, though they're a little lighter. Figure on $245 or so.</p>

<p>Nikkormat FT2 or FT3 can be had for $75 or so. A bargain, and 1/125th synch.</p>

<p>Lighter & smaller still, and among my favorites, are the Olympus Om-1ns without the winder. $110-245</p>

<p> Other cameras to consider are the Canonet QL-IIIs ($175), and Olympus XAs ($50-150), maybe not pro caliber, but stellar in every way. And the last two offer 1/500th flash synch.</p>

<p> One more recommendation: Use vintage lenses matching the camera. These earlier lenses are dripping with character and distinctive optical signatures, what today would be designated as "flaws".</p>

<p> I would advise you to cruise Flickr searching for users of each of those cameras before making a decision, then go play with some in the used section at a nearby camera store.</p>

 

<p>A Minolta SRT-102 can be picked up for very little, and you can use the leftover money to have it CLA'd and to get some of the amazingly underpriced and widely available MC or MD lenses for it. The 102 has mirror lockup, double exposure, dof preview, and a notably accurate meter. The meter is match-needle, so it doesn't violate your all-mechanical rule. And of course, you can shut it off and use a hand meter. The meter is the only part of the camera that needs electricity. This is a real cast-iron tough machine with a nice feel in the hand. The Rokkor lenses are as good as any out there, and a few are unique. You will interact with this camera a lot, and I think you will find it inspiring. Really. When I pick up my 102, I want to go straight out and shoot some pictures--just something about that camera. Minolta kept the SRT series going for decades, steadily improving it, and this was the high water mark. </p>

<p>Danielle,<br /> What are you gonna do with that camera?</p>

<p>If the intimate experience matters you can try something like that.</p><div></div>

<p>between the nikon fm10 and the fm2, which one?</p>

<p>I really think you should consider Red's advice and take a look at the Minolta SR-T 102 and the Rokkor lenses that make up that system. This is a fully mechanical camera with a full set of features, not to mention an amazing exposure system and legendary lenses. It's most certainly worth a look!</p>

<p>I looked at the minolta srt 102. Do you think I will have any frequent problems and need to repair it often? What lenses do you recommend?</p>

<p>and is the minolta srt 201 better than the 102?</p>

<p>The Nikon FM2 is very nice as is the F3 but if you want the full tilt, manual "brass and glass" experience then hook up a Canon F-1n (little "n"). Rock solid, all metal camera, mirror lock up, full pro accessories. Get the lenses Jeff recommended above. Canon FD equipment offers great bang-for-the-buck.</p>

<p>this is all so wonderful. I think I have decided on the minolta srt-102. I am thinking about getting a minolta tele rokkor 135mm f2.8 lens. do you think that sounds good?</p>

<p>Kozma wrote:<br>

<em>Leica is light, Nikon F2 is not fully manual.</em></p>

<p>Just to clarify, the F2 is fully manual. Manual focus, manual exposure, manual wind, fully mechanical shutter, all functions of the camera body work completely without batteries, no autoexposure, no meter in the camera itself.</p>

<p>The F2 does have automatic diaphragm and instant-return mirror (my first Exakta didn't have either of these two features), but most people wouldn't say this is enough to call the camera less than fully manual.</p>

<p>Metered prisms (called Photomic in Nikon nomenclature) are common for the F2. But these do not automate anything. You still have to manually set the aperture and shutter speed. </p>

<p>There is a very rare optional EE aperture control servo available for two of the metered prisms. This is a motorized device that provides shutter priority autoexposure by using a motor to move the aperture ring back and forth until the meter needle is centered. I've never seen one of these beasts in person, but I understand they were noisy and expensive, and battery hogs. Since your chances of running into an operating one of these are so slim, I'd pretend they don't exist for all practical purposes, but just note that you might read about one someday. An F2 with one of these devices does have autoexposure, so wouldn't qualify as "fully manual" while the aperture control servo was installed and working.</p>

 

<p>im sorry to keep bugging but what are your opinions on a bessa and would they be a good fit for me? if so which one?</p>

<p>what about the bessa-l? I am confused about scale focusing though</p>

<p>Man, right now you could by so many great cameras and still have money left over with that $350 I can't see wasting it on the Leica. I only say wasted because what's the point in owning a Leica body and not being able to afford decent glass for it?</p>

<p>I also have to agree with Red, and would recommend a Minolta SRT. I just got a Minolta SRT-101 (my last two posts were about it.) I love it. It's a really nice, heavy, solid camera and I've already been really happy with the pictures I've taken with it. It's all-metal and completely manual, but has a light meter. The light meter is coupled to the shutter speed and aperture, but there is NO auto exposure, and it doesn't control anything. The meter just sort of gives you a needle indicator in the viewfinder and when you adjust the aperture or shutter speed, it shows whether the combination will give you a good exposure. (There are two needle indicators and they will line up when you will get a good exposure). <br /><br />I'm assuming that the SRT-101 is very close to the SRT-102. And like Red said, everything is mechanical on it, and the only thing that uses power is the meter. If you wanted, you don't even have to use the meter and just use the "Sunny 16 Rule" for outdoor exposures, or use a separate handheld meter. I like using both...sometimes I'll use the meter, and sometimes I'll just "guesstimate" with Sunny 16. The light meter uses a small battery, and the original mercury battery that it took is no longer available. But you CAN get compatible replacements. Right now, I'm just using a 625 (1.5 volt) alkaline battery. The battery voltage is higher than the 1.35 volts that the original battery had, and a few people have said that could cause the meter to show the wrong exposure. But so far, I haven't had any problems and it seems to be accurate enough. (We're talking about a difference of less than two-tenths of a volt anyway!) <br /><br /> </p>

<p>I can also recommend the Yashica TL-Electro. Fully manual (does have a light meter though) and built like a tank. Or, if you want to try out a rangefinder, the Yashica 35 GSN is an excellent choice (although not fully manual, shutter time is automatically set for you). Does it show that I like my Yashicas ? :-)</p>

<p>Fortunately for classic film camera lovers and users, the question "which is the best?" has no answer. Therefore, you will get a variety of excellent recommendations.<br /> <br /> You mention a Bessa. I guess you are thinking of the modern line of 35mm rangefinders, and not the older folding rollfilm cameras. If so, the models that would interest you, at least from your 'fully manual' criterion, would be the R2, R2M, R3M, or R4M. They use the Leica M bayonet mount, so you have a whole Leica range of lenses to choose from, as well as the Cosina-Voigtlander ('CV') range made for these models. Even on the second-hand market, these may stretch your budget. I have the R3A, which is the battery-operated version with AE exposure control added, and I love it. It's a very different experience from an SLR ; I can't describe it readily, but the word 'intimacy' goes some way towards it.<br /> <br /> The original Bessa cameras were folding cameras, and they have an enthusiastic following. You have to be careful, however, in buying one, as you will want one that has no light-leakage in the bellows, and it would be a shame to spoil your experience of film if you had too many problems to sort out at the start. The modern Bessas have no link to the old Bessas ; Cosina has a licence to use the name for its modern range of film cameras.<br /> <br /> All the recommendations you've had are good. I'm going to add a couple, simply by way of diversity, and to reflect my own experiences. I've never owned a Leica (though I have some Leica lenses), but I can't believe you'd be disappointed going down that route. Neither do I have a Minolta, though a friend of many years does, and the reputation is justified.<br /> <br /> I don't think a big collection of lenses is a big deal here. From that point of view alone, you could have enormous fun with one of the higher-end compact 35mm fixed-lens rangefinders, like the Olympus 35RC. It takes a battery, but only to power the meter. It's five-element Zuiko lens is a star in the compact camera world. Even if you get something else as a result of your foray here, you should get one of these. They're inexpensive, small, fit anywhere, make a great backup camera, and make a great first camera too. <br /> <br /> You haven't yet had a recommendation for my favourite in the 35mm manual SLR list, the little Yashica FX-3. It's fully manual (there's a light meter with 'traffic light' LEDs), and even if it doesn't meet your criterion of "heavy", the chassis is metal and the outer body polycarbonate. It is very reliable indeed. With this camera, you have two very good ranges of lenses to choose from : the Yashica ML range (ignore the DSB and YUS ranges), and the Carl Zeiss T* range for Contax SLR. The FX-3 can be had for a song, and you could be kitted out with several ML lenses too in your budget. The Zeiss lenses for Contax/Yashica are right up at the top end of the performance spectrum, still fairly pricey, but the fabulous 50mm Planar (either the f/1.7 or the f/1.4) is still inside your budget, and if you get fortunate (or are prepared to add a little more), there might even be room to squeeze in the 28mm Distagon. I have four SLR systems, Nikon, Canon (film and digital), Olympus, and Yashica/Contax (and this excludes a variety of M42 screw-fit systems), but the Yashica/Contax one is my favourite by a long way.</p>

<p>I have an older folding Bessa 1 which produces 6x9 and 4.5x6 photos on 120 roll film. I use it but wouldn't recommend it for what you're after.<br>

I have two Leica IIIf's. Lovely classic 35mm rangefinders which I also use but wouldn't recommend. They are somewhat idiosynchratic to use these days compared to others that are easier to use.<br>

I have two Bessa R series 35mm rangefinders but I think they're going to be out of your price range, and I'm not sure rangefinder is the way to go. They have their uses but as long as your eyesight is good then an SLR takes some beating.<br>

I have a Nikkormat FTn from around 1970 which is a great SLR and in the same class as the Minolta SRT, in my view. Battery operated match needle exposure meter but everything has to be done manually. I'd strongly recommend it and they're relatively cheap these days. Built like a brick dunny! I have a range of lenses from 21mm to 200mm - you need to be clear what sort of photos you're likely to take but a 28mm wide angle, a 50mm prime and a 135mm tele are probably a good starter set.</p>