What could be wrong with this SRT102 (or the user)?

<p>Hi everyone. I'm looking for opinions here on what might have gone dodgy with my SRT102. Or could this be user error? I've got a black blotch at the lower right (usually) of some frames. This varies from a sliver to a large triangle or trapezoid, and has recently appeared in about two to eight frames, not all contiguous, on some rolls. Most of the pictures were shot by my fiancée (who has fallen in love with and mostly kidnapped this camera) but a few were by me. Pictures below show the problem. I believe all are were made with the MC W. Rokkor-SG 28mm 1:3.5 lens mounted. I would presumably rule out any defect with the film (as this has happened on multiple different emulsions) or in processing (as the B&W were home-processed by me, whilst the color were done at the local lab). Any ideas what this could be? The SRT102 has a horizontal-travelling focal plane shutter, which I would not expect to make a blotch of this shape, but I'm by no means a shutter expert. Thanks for any input.<br /> <em>--Dave</em></p>

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<p>Next one -- larger trapezoid</p><div></div>

<p>Sliver, this time on the lower-left. Similarly small sliver has also appeared on some frames on the lower-right.</p><div></div>

<p>In color this time...</p><div></div>

<p>Are you certain nothing was blocking the lens externally, e.g., is the camera in the "never-ready"case? If not, remove the lens when there isn't any film in the camera and fire the shutter a few times. Is the mirror completing its travel all the way to the bumper?</p>

<p>I'm just guessing, based on a SRT 100 I had until several years ago. There is a spring mounted light shield inside the top of the lens mount on the camera....normally held up by two wire springs about the thickness of a human hair, one on each side edge...since it is mounted on springs, I'm guessing it may also actas a mirror bumper when the shutter is pressed, but maybe not. Anyway, my guess is that at least one of the spring ends have come loose allowing the shield to droop slightly, and when the exposure is made it hasn't been completely pushed out of the way by the mirror. It could be an easy repair for a skilled technician with good eyes and a steady hand.</p>

<p>1. are you using a carrying case that drops down in front of the lens? Yes-remove it when taking pictures.<br>

2. No- remove the lens, open the camera back, lock the shutter open on B with a locking cable release. Carefully inspect the light path for any loose debris, remove as needed. Close the shutter and inspect the second curtain from both the film and lens sides, cock the shutter and repeat to check the first curtain. Any debris anywhere?<br>

3. Same lens in use each time? Yes- with the lens removed and set to its smallest aperture operate the aperture with the lever/pin that the camera operates when taking the exposure. Do the aperture blades operate smoothly and consistently at all aperture settings? </p>

 

<p><strong>Professor K</strong> — That had occurred to me, actually. We have no case for the camera, but my fiancée (who is a photography newbie) thought maybe she had let the neck strap get in front of the lens. However, I doubt that happened. While it is plausible with a rangefinder, you'd see the obstruction through the VF of an SLR like this, and move the strap out of the way before exposing. Plus, some of the pictures are mine, such as the first and third above, and I would never let that happen. :) ... would I? I've got a half-used film in the camera now, so I can't do the dry-firing experiment you suggest, but I will later. Actually I was asking the question now in order to inform what tests I might do with the remaining half-roll that's in there, so one thing I'll try is using a wrist strap. Thanks for your suggestions.<br>

<em>--Dave</em></p>

<p>Also, if the edge of a case or the strap were in front of the lens the blockage would not be a fairly sharp edge like the photos show, but rather a soft edged obstruction. </p>

<p>I think it has to be inside the mirror box or shutter somewhere, as noted above.<br>

When you look for it, remember that it is from the <strong>top</strong> of the camera, since the image projected onto the film is upside down, of course.</p>

<p>It must be the mirror or something behind it and it is more likely the mirror itself. My guess is the mirror is not all the way up yet when the shutter opens (hence you may try taking pictures with mirror lockup). Whichever part exposed earlier would have a thicker black blotch. Also it depends on the shutter speed and the springs the problem may be more or less thicker.</p>

<p>Thanks everyone, and especially Stephen, JDM, and John about the mirror and/or light shield. I'll shoot as normal today with the last of the film, then a lot of dry-firing with the back open and no lens to look for something falling, lagging, or flopping about in there. (John, I unfortunately have a non-MLU SRT102 so can't use that as part of the test.)<br>

<em>--Dave</em></p>

<p>Finger blocking </p>

<p>Rim of hat blocking</p>

<p>Definitely further testing. I think firing the shutter with no film and camera back open is a good start. BTW, if your fiancée really likes the SRT 102 you should get her one of her own. Or if you get your 102 sorted out give it to here and pick up one with MLU for yourself. If you can live without the split image focusing aid, the SRT 101 with MLU is even less expensive.</p>

<p>Looks like the mirror is going up too late - as the horizontal shutter moves, the mirror is still there but moving up, therefore you get a triangle shape. Look out if the shape of the trapezoid or triangle changes with the shutter speed. You probably can see the shape while shooting with the back open, no lens, against a white wall.</p>

<p>I'll wager that Julio has got it right. Above 1/60 sec., the speed of the curtain does not change, but the timing (lag of the second curtain behind the first) changes the width of the slit. So if the mirror is still in motion when the first curtain starts its travel, you'll see different shapes at different shutter speeds. And since the curtain moves from left to right (as seen from the back of the camera) you would see the dark patch in the lower right. </p>

<p>Usually caused by someone blowing too much air pressure into the mirrorbox area etc.<br /> It's the flexible light trap that prevents reflections from the screen to the film plane.<br /> <strong>OR</strong><br /> It's a sluggish mirror mechanism caused by failing and congealed lubricant (Mirror isn't getting out of the way in time).</p><div></div>

<p>Thanks Gus and Julio. If indeed I find that kind of problem, I'll certainly have to wonder what I did to the camera and when/how. We've been using this one for two or three years before this problem arose, and I don't recall giving it any traumatic handling. I suppose it's possible that something has gone wrong due to old age in the short time I've owned the camera, even though I would think my few years with it make little difference atop 40 years of use before it came to me. We shall see...</p>

<p>Mike: Already a few months ago I got an XE-7 for a second Minolta SR/MC-mount body, after there arose competition for use of the SRT. I actually have told my fiancée that for her as a beginner the XE-7 would be easier than the SRT102, as it has a bit more automation including an auto-exposure mode. But she's not interested in it, having somewhat developed a workflow with the match-needle process of the SRT, via a steep learning curve after coming from using only an iPhone and maybe before that a digi P&S! I suppose she wants to master the SRT way before or instead of learning something different (even if the <em>different</em> is also <em>easier</em>). Therefore I'm forced to take a hit for the team and use the XE-7 faux-Leica myself. :P Now I'll have to devise a further strategy if this SRT becomes unreliable and I can't fix it.<br>

<em>--Dave</em></p>

<p>They're prety cheap on the big auction site...just a thought. I picked up mine at a charity store w/lens for $12 USD.</p>

<p>I think this guy had the same issue. Here is the url of the video of the fix, it looks fairly simple.<br>

Hope this helps</p>

Dave, you would XE :)

These are my SLR workhorses, love them. :)

<p>By the way, very late epilogue, now I've got the roll of film out of this camera months later: The problem is <em>exactly</em> what Gus showed in the picture above (light trap flopping about). Thank you Gus! I don't know why it suddenly started doing that, as I had not recently attempted any cleaning, adjustment, or other manhandling of anything near there. I shall have to figure out a way to get it to stay in its intended path!<br>

<em>--Dave</em></p>