Wedding pictures with a 20D

I have been asked to take pictures at a friends wedding (again). I

explained that I am not totally comfortable shooting a wedding, but

the happy couple insist that they will be happy with my best efforts.

 

I recently switched from an Elan 7 to a 20D. I would appreciate any

tips on the best way to configure the 20D for indoor wedding

pictures.

 

Here is what I have to work with:

 

Canon 20

Elan 7 (back up)

Speedlight 580ex

Speedlight 420ex

50 f1.8

17-40 f4

28-70 f2.8

70-200 f2.8

 

I have a stroboframe flip bracket, which I have not used since I

upgraded from my old A1 to my Elan (the 420ex does not have a plug

for moving the flash off the camera, but the 580ex does).

 

I hope to practice before the wedding, but would appreciate some

advice on whether to use the stroboframe, or whether to leave the

flash attached to the camera. If I use the stroboframe, will I lose

any of the "automatic" functions of the camera or flash? I assume I

simply run a cord from the camera to the flash on the frame? I

assume I should shoot in manual mode (60 at F8)? I intend to shoot

in raw mode (I have two 1 gig cards and hope that should be enough

memory)

 

Any and all advice would be greatly appreciated.

I would suggest the "Wedding and social event photography" section as they were very helpful to me...

 

-Mario

Using a sync cord with an off camera flash will not allow any TTL functionality whatsoever, so if you want point and click automation with your flash, leave it on the hotshoe.

 

Aside from that, my only recommendation is get more memory. I generally shoot a minimum of 600 shots at a wedding, at most I can fit close to 200 on a 1GB card, so if you take 600 shots, you're going to need 1 more, but I would say you'll want some breathing room. If you have a handful of 256's or 512's you should be ok. I have 2 1GB, 2 512MB, and more 256MB's than I can count, so once I use up my larger ones, it's like shooting on film, changing cards every 50 shots or so.

For PJ type stuff, indoors, i would use 1600 and 3200 speed w/out flash. No flash - If shooting RAW and using PSCSII as your software, i would suggest AV mode with a +1 exposure compensation (Just trust me on this one - but ONLY if you are using PSCSII). With Flash - use the 550EX on camera rotated up/slightly backwards to bounce off the ceiling/back wall or side wall. Also, with flash, begin with metering a evenly lit space within the enviroment your shooting in (avoid windows), dial in that reading and subtract 2/3 of a stop - then switch to Manual mode. Adjust flash comp as needed. This will give you a good amount of Ambient while also allowing your flash to freeze a little when movement is involved. Also, keep your flash set to 2nd sync with inside. Helps all around.

 

Again, to keep it safe, i would suggest shooting at a constant 2.8 for everything except formals. Formals, you may want to go to 5.6 at about ISO 400 - adjust light as needed.

I type too fast sometimes. I meant to say dial those readings in Manual mode. Also, set your camera/flash to 2nd curtin sync.

Comment on Ryan's reply: he's shooting raw mode, so a gig card would hold around 107 images.

Ummm. . .not sure I agree with the "shoot everything at F2.8". Certainly, that is where you want to shoot the portraits. . .but that will be a bit shallow for the group shots.

 

First thing to practice would be the flash photography. Shooting at the rehearsal dinner would be a last ditch opportunity. Many have complained that ETTL-II on a 20D will need +2/3 FEC. . . I don't have a ETTL-II camera, so I don't know. But I do know that flash photography can be tricky, and that digital bodies will expose differently than film cameras (and from different digital bodies).

 

Shooting bounce flash with the 580EX is definately the way to go. If you bounce. . the bracket becomes less important.

 

With both a 580EX and 420EX, you could try wireless slave flash. . .but MUCH practice is needed with two flashes. Not only do you have the normal exposure issues. . .you also will have flash placement issues. Can't tell you how many pictures I took where the stupid slave flash is actually IN the frame (yes, I can be stupid).

 

Generally, with flash, I shoot "M" mode. Set shutter to a comfortable setting based on the 1/focal rule. Set AV based upon desired depth of field. (wide open portraits. F5.6 or F8 for group shots). Set ISO based upon ambient light (higher iso will give you a more balanced ambient lighting).

 

TAKE SCADS of photos. 2 gigs of memory. Thats about what. . 240 photos? That may just barely get you through. You do need to shoot RAW so you can salvage any mess ups. Bring a laptop. . .just in case.

 

Also. . .. don't forget to shoot at least three rolls of film :) Get good film :)

That's why i said for formals, go to around 5.6 :)

Check out

 

www.thelightphotography.com

 

Eric uses 1600 2.8 almost exclusivaly indoors - his work is wonderful.

you know a off camera shoe cord 2 by canon would solve the flash bracket and automatic functionality problems. you Just put your camera on P then and shoot away. it keeps the automatic function of the flash with the camera and places the flash on the bracket... a good setup.

 

lots of people I have seen are happy with jpeg output, but if you do this make sure you have your white balance set right. otherwise shoot RAW and take at least two 1 gig mem cards (about 100 pictures a peice). if you can procure a labtop, then do that because sometimes it is nice to upload the pictures off the memory cards and shoot more. also you can show some of the results to the people real quick (always a crowd pleaser)

 

if you have never shot a wedding before then look through some wedding portfolios (if you can find some on the web) and get some ideas about some common shots to do.

 

I suppose also that you are going to just shoot more candids during the wedding and the reception? if you shoot the bridal portraits (all the set up pictures) then try to do that were you can make the best of existing light, like outside in the shade or near a window, and use flash as a fill flash.

 

and don't forget to get some of those cliche' picts like the hand on the back or the bride talking with the father, or bride looking at flowers or bride looking at groom, the groom goofing off with grooms men,, you know those personal kind of photos that they will be happy to see.

 

I would take the 28-70 and 70-200 zoom lenses, and use the 28-70 for more of your walk around candid kind of shots. and use the 70-200 for more of the portrait, and during the ceremony kind of shots (they might not want flash during the ceremony. this is common, but ask first)

 

Also, don't be scared for the more common candid shots (like at the reception) to go ahead and switch to Jpeg fine because you will mostly want to go for quantity here,, not so much quality (still try to get this though), you will be trying to capture a lot of 'moments' . swith back to raw when you think some shots will be important.. like first dance or cake cutting.

 

hopefully this will help out.

also as a side note. I mention switching image type shot several times. there is a custom function that allows you to set the functionality of the 'set' key in the middle of the control dial. I have this set to image quality.. so you just press it and turn the control dial to change from RAW to jpeg fine,, etc.

Exaclty -- it's OK to switch between RAW and large fine JPG -- I do that all the time on a shoot. Certain shots, and you'll know it, will not demand RAW (dancing indoors; well-lit outdoor shots in the shade). But complex lighting ones will benefit from the further processing you can do against a RAW. 3GB of CF is a minimum for an 8MP camera at a wedding. I think it is best to use cards no larger than 1GB so all your photos are not levered on one gigantic card. Spread out the shots among the CF cards. The 24-70 2.8L will be your most used lens. And yes, please read ALL of the posts on the Wedding Forum and the newbie FAQs associated with (and buy a couple wedding photo books, expecially Bambi's!).

I just ordered a 1 and 2 G KINGSTON TECHNOLOGY Elite Pro cards. On Rob Galbraith's CF database they are 3.5X faster than the standard sandisk cards I use. I have 2.5G of cards. This summer I have been the "staff" photographer at a local community and have run out of space shotting a show or two. These cards are being promoted with rebates and low prices. They seem to be the least expensive faster card right now. The 2G will net out at $80 or so.

 

The off camera cord would be my other recomendation.

I second the Canon off Camera Shoe Cord2. It will work just like it's Still on the hot shoe. You don't need to be in "p" mode. Use the Stroboframe for indoor shoes if the ceremony is outdoors, the frame won't be as important as you'll just be using flash for fill.

I use a 1D MarkII and a 580EX off camera using the off camera cord and a modified stroboframe. To get a more consistant exposure with flash I try to take most pictures in the 15 to 20 foot range ( at various focal lenghts) and I use spot metering aimed at the facial circle and then use Flash Exposure Lock. Recompose and shoot the picture. On the aisle shots use manual focus prefocused to the distance that you will shoot at, manual exposure set at F8 to get plenty of depth of field. My set up requires +1/3 flash exposure increase. I've found that especially with black tuxes and white gowns the ETTL makes huge errors if left to P mode and ETTL.

Do shoot in raw and take at least 3 gigs of cards. Check the histogram to make minor adjustments and realize that different faces reflect more or less light and small adjustments may be necessary for different light or dark complected individuals.

I always use the backup in camera option available in the Mark II I don't know if the 20D has this. If it does, it adds a great peace of mind.

Stay away from Auto white balance, I meter a gray card of the alter area ahaed of time and use that image for a custom white balance for non flash images during the ceremony, and Flash white balance for any flash pictures. Of course I'm assuming the wedding is inside. For outside use the correct white balance not AWB.

During the reception I try to shoot a few flash pictures from at least 75 feet away, then the hall background is lit and is not a black hole.

Do make two backups to CD or DVD before you do anything to the images.

Have Fun.

Thank you all very much for responding. I have decided to get the off camera shoe cord.

 

Monte