WD2D+ with TF-4 Questions

Discussion in 'Black and White' started by trooper, Jun 5, 2004.

  1. I did a quick speed test on HP5+ in W2D2+ recently and had a normal,
    expected sort of result set. Last night, I did a roll of Neopan 400
    and HP5+ (120's) in the same tank and while processing things,
    realized I had run out of mixed, standard non-hardening fixer. I
    decided to use TF-4 instead and had used acetic acid solution for a
    stop bath per the Wimberley directions. I rinsed the film twice (two
    water exchanges) after the stop bath, thinking I would moderate any
    sudden pH changes when going to the TF-4. When I rebottled the used
    fixer, it was very amber colored and the negatives were very thin. It
    almost seemed as if the normal toning/staining of the negative had
    washed away. With a bit of struggle, I got some decent prints made
    but it certainly isn't what I would normally wish to deal with! Any
  2. I always use TF4 with TMX, HP5 or TX deved in Xtol, DDX or Rodinal and I never use an acid stop bath. But my TF4 is amber as well, just had a look at the bottles.
  3. Next time, just use the fix Wimberly recommends. I don't think TF-4 adversely affected your negs.

    "I did a quick speed test on HP5+ in W2D2+ recently and had a normal, expected sort of result set..."

    I know this is not the crux of your problem, but despite the speed claims by Wimberly, I get an ASA of only 160 when using HP5+ in WD2D+ pyro. Likewise, as a starting point, I would use Neopan at an ASA of 160 also. If you rate it at 400, you will almost certainly get thin negatives.
  4. Thanks, Andre. I ended up at 200 with my equipment so our experience has been similar in that regard. I've been experimenting of late with staining developers and had originally settled on Thornton's Exactol Lux. As the re-opening of the shop gets delayed, I was at a point of needing to make an alternate choice and got back to the project again. This was the first I've noticed this behavior in the fixer though...
  5. Wimberly recommends TF-4. I don't use W2D2+ on 400 ASA films, but I get an honest 160 out of Classic200. I get 80 out of Agfa APX100. Just remember, your negs are going to look a bit thin as the stain makes up a whole lot of 'density' while printing. I like the look I get out of Forte Eleganze 2 using APX100 in W2D2+.

    I don't think you have any fix issues. I use a water stop and TF-4 with no problems.

    tim in san jose
  6. i think the problem is your stopbath. use water. fill, agitate, dump, repeat. then fix as usual with the tf-4 and you should notice a nice green tint :D
    as a side note, i shot my hp5+ all last semester rated at 320 and developed according to instructions included with the wd2d+ and they came out better than i could have possibly expected, and printed like a dream with a 2 1/2 filter.

Share This Page