Water damage

Discussion in 'Nikon' started by sabin, Sep 6, 2010.

  1. Hello everybody,
    I am desperately seeking advise on how I can salvage my camera and lens.
    I was unfortunate enough to fall into a fresh water creek today while holding my Nikon D300 and Nikkor 24-70mm f/2.8 lens. The camera and lens have been fully submerged for probably no more than 8 seconds, however I think that was probably 8 seconds too long. As soon as I got out of the water I have turned the camera off, I have removed the battery and memory card and headed straight for home. I have just arrived home after a 40 minutes drive.
    Probably the first question is what would be the best (correct) way to dry the camera and lens?
    Secondly what are the chances of actually being able to salvage them?
    Thank you all, any advice would be very much appreciated.
  2. I haven't got a clue whether they'll still work, but any chance of rescuing the camera and lens is to NOT TURN THEM ON for quite a long time (probably a couple of weeks).
    Let them dry (I presume you've already let as much water run out of them as possible) in a warm place (but not so hot that you'll melt anything).
    I haven't got any expernience with speeding up the drying by putting them in a microwave or on a heater. I've dried electronice three times, just in my room, but then again, they were never this wet.
    Good luck (but to be honest, I would start checking out insurance policies and/or start saving up for a new set). I'm truly sorry for you.
  3. Definitely don't microwave !! the electronics will be frapped instantly, there are some sprays used in the auto industry that may help i used one a long while ago on the contacts of a distributor cap after it was soaked in a rainstorm........ i agree though don't tun your camera on and perhaps leave it near a sunny window or near a heat register for a few days.. i had bad luck with the humidity change on my nikonos five after a long day of diving in bonaire i let the camera soak in a fresh water bath for half an hour, i thought it would be aclimatized to the room air conditioning but when i opened it up -POOF i saw the shutter blades start to curl ...insurance covered that .
    good luck
  4. This is a totally amateur response. No microwave! Less obvious: no blowing, you might blow water into places it has not reached. Remove the the lens cap. Remove the lens from camera. Set camera facing down on a dish rack. Set lens on the barrel. Turn up the heat in the room so that it's uncomfortable, but you can still stay in it. The camera is supposed to be fine working at up to 40 degrees Centigrade, so that if you don't go beyond that, you won't cause damage. Call Nikon support as soon as they open. I agree with above not to turn camera on.

    From your photo.net home page, it's likely you're in Australia. I just tried to call Nikon support in the US for information for you, since it's a free call within the US, but today's a national holiday here. Good luck.
  5. I see now that I wasn't very clear on what I meant.
    Please read my third sentence as "I haven't got any experience with speeding up the drying but would recommend against putting them in a microwave or on a heater".
    I've always understood it's best to not put equipment through big differences in temperature. I guess an extra- heated room would be ok, since that usually means a slower build-up of heat, bu I would not put the camera and lens near the heater itself or in the sun for example. No trying to rush this would be my advise.
    *blushes a bit* I had forgotten about the electronics getting zapped instantly by a microwave... Guess I wasn't fully awake yet...
  6. I have dried out a flash that got wet by using a big bowl of un cooked rice. Cover the camera completely and let the rice absorb the water out of it.
    Even if you get the camera to dry out and work again the odds are that you have shortened the life span of your camera by a large amount.
  7. I learned from one of my friends, who has been in the fire restoration busy for several decades, that air flow dries things not temperature or trying to control humidity. Actually, warmer temperatures could accelerate the growth of mold and fungus. Putting items in cool dry dark area that is well ventilated with a small fan keeping the air moving will probably improve the odds of things working out for you. You probably want to maintain these conditions for at least a couple of weeks before you try any of the equipment.

    Good luck.

  8. ShunCheung

    ShunCheung Administrator

    Since the OP is from Australia, I would give Nikon OZ a call ASAP and see whether they have any suggestions. Most likely the D300 body is history already unless you are very lucky. Perhaps they can salvage the lens. Do not let the lens sit for too long or rust starts to develop and it'll be too late; the camera is probably in "you don't have any more to lose anyway" category.
  9. BTW, I saw this the other day. It's a video by Kai W from the UK where he trashes a Nikon and Canon DSLR to see how much abuse they can take. I was impressed with the amount of abuse they took and the shutter was still activating. The bottom line, I would say that there is hope.


  10. ShunCheung

    ShunCheung Administrator

    Wade, that YouTube video you link to is well planned and edited. Sometimes when you drop a camera and it hits at the wrong spot, a simple impact can seriously damage a camera; sometimes a serious drop does not cause much damage. It all depends on each individual situation.
    The problem is that water and electronics do not mix. A D300 that was fully submerged is, unfortunately, bad news. That video really has nothing to do with the OP's situation at all.
  11. The problem with water is more than just shorting out electronics. In time rust and mold can develop. I would just send both lens & camera off to repair center so they can open them up and have a look.
    Kent in SD
  12. I've read recommendations on this site for putting lenses in bags of rice to soak the water out of them. I don't think this would be a good idea for the camera though. I've never tried it, but I heard of drying out electronics (particularly cell phones) by putting them in the refrigerator. Like I said, I've never tried it, but I know that if you leave food uncovered in the refrigerator, it dries out pretty quickly.
  13. I recently dropped a lens of mine into a freshwater lake, I put mine into a desiccator. A desiccator is an air tight or vacuum container with a desiccant solution (something like silica gel that comes in little packets when you buy electronics) inside. You can buy these solutions (I recommend searching Wikipedia for desiccants). I also found some on B&H used for drying cameras: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/17351-REG/Ewa_Marine_EM_CD_5_CD5_Camera_Dry_Desiccant.html
    Hope this helps!
  14. Use the airconditioner to dry the wet stuff. The air coming out of the a/c is quite dry. I got my D90 rained
    on (Malaysian rain is torrential, but still not your kind of wet though), I removed the batteries, left all doors
    open and let it hang under the vent for a day. I almost got it working perfectly but now the D90 won't go to
    sleep. Minor problem...I bought a second battery. Possible shorting at the memory card terminals.
  15. I have saved a cell phone or two by placing them in a vacuum. I do lostwax casting and have a belljar vacuum for pulling excess air bubbles from molds. I have placed a water logged cell phone in the chamber and slowly draw a vacuum down to 26-30 inches, let it sit over night and then very slowly, several hours, let clean filtered air back into the chamber.
  16. @Raden - Please look up liquid-gas equilibria before you make statements like, "The air coming out of the a/c is quite dry." It is anything but that. In fact, it is at 100% relative humidity. The reason is because cooling is achieved by passing room air over the fins of the cold evaporator coil in the A/C. These fins are coated with liquid water which has condensed on them because of the low temperature. To achieve high efficiencies, the probability of a molecule in the air stream hitting one of the cold, wet fins of the evaporator is designed to be near 100%. This means that the water in the gas stream is in thermodynamic equilibrium with the liquid phase water that is coating the evaporator fins. This means that the air is close to 100% saturated with water at that temperature, ie, RH = 100%.
    Note: A de-humidifier works in a significantly different way. The air stream leaving it is indeed at a lower RH than the air entering the dehumidifier. In addition, once the air leaving an A/C mixes with significantly warmer room air, its temperature increases, thereby decreasing the RH of that mixture somewhat. However, this is not a good way to dry things... (think of the "clammy feeling one often encounters in some air conditioned rooms.)
    Tom M
  17. Most crafts stores sell dessicant crystals in the dried flower and plant department.
    Do not use automotive/carburator sprays on cameras - bad idea. They contain oils, as well as solvents, which may prevent corrosion of electrical components, but will leave a fine residue on everything. - bad idea.
    Call Nikon tech support very soon - good idea.
    Best of luck with it.
  18. I would send it to Nikon to be thoroughly cleaned - you not only have the water to worry about but also fine particles that may be in the water, stirred up by you moving in it. These could potentialy cause more longer-term damage.
  19. A friend of mine, while hiking, dropped his D300 with a 17-55 into a puddle of water (freezing water I might add) and took it out after approximately 3 secs. He shut if off immediately and, this being a mountain, took it immediately to his car (5 mins), took lens, battery and card out, turned the internal heater on, and turned the fan full blast and stuck the camera in front of the vents for approximately 30 mins (rotating and turning when necessary).
    He then carefully wiped down the camera and repeated for another 20 mins at lower fan power and lower temperature.
    His camera has been working flawlessly ever since (about a year). Could this be pure luck? Maybe. Will your camera fare the same? Nobody knows... I'd say try it...
  20. Thank you all for you suggestions and best wishes. I have contacted the Australian Nikon service and repair office earlier this morning and ,as I expected, I was told that it is most likely that neither one will be able to be salvaged. The person I spoke to was quite helpful and suggested to send both camera and lens so they can have a look at them and that the camera would stand more of a chance of being repaired than the lens, however even if they could get it working there is no guaranty that the water has not weakened some of the components to the point that they could fail at any time.
    So I have decided to try and dry it as well as I can before I attempt to turn it on again and if it does not work I'll send it to Nikon so they can have a look at it.
    As for the lens, the person I spoke to at Nikon today, told me that there are a few electronic components inside the lens and it is more than likely that those have been damaged beyond help. Not really knowing how the lens actually operates, I am wondering, do those components influence the optical performance of a lens or does it only help with the auto focusing mechanism of the lens? Provided that I can dry the lens properly and of course assuming that the lens does not rust, can the lens still be used (focused manually) or is it a complete "write-off" ?
  21. Don't know if this advice would help, but a few months ago I accidently dropped my iphone into the toilet, it went straight down the pipe and was there several minutes before I could find a way to get it out. I left it to dry for a few days before attempting to turn it on and when I did all I got was a crazy screen that did not respond. I finally just left in the hottest place I could think of which was in my car during the 95+F heat wave we were having. One day left there and it finally turned on... Maybe you could leave the camera in the car a day.
  22. Set the camera in front of the refrigarator, the air comming out of the bottom is very dry. It's a trick I've learned to use for many different things. The movement of air is rather slow. I would suggest leaving all compartments open. I'm no expert, but I would say that you can leave the lens off and rap the body in a cloth that has very little lint.
    You are fortunate that it was fresh water, not salt. After seeing the video on here where a guy puts a Nikon and Canon threw various tortures (to include pouring tea on them), you should be fine.
  23. I should add, when I was in school for electronics, the fact that water is a way to clean electronics was never refuted. If you got the battery out in time, then you should be able to use it rather soon after drying.
    I have to guess if it was so wet that water poured out, but even if it did the electronics shouldn't have suffered that much. Then your only concerns are the machanical parts.
  24. Tom; the air coming out of a AC is not at 100 percent RH; it *IS* dryer.
    Dryer air is one of the primary purposes of an AC unit; its main goal in life.

    As that humid air is cooled by the evaporator coil, much of the water vapor condenses out of it as liquid moisture, which is then drained out of the air conditioner. What’s left is a cooler mixture of air and greatly reduced water vapor.

    The cold evaporator coil condenses out much of the air's water vapor; the liquid water goes out a drain.
    That is actually the main purpose of an AC unit down in the deep South USA; or Bangkok; folks would rather be at 78F and 50 percent; than 78F and 95 percent RH.Thus having a small AC that is always on is better than a giant one that is on little; ie one pulls out more moisture with the little guy always one. Thus better settups have several AC units; they com on in stages.
    A portable dehumidifer is really just a AC unit; but both cold/evaporator and hot/condenser plus hot compressor are in that box on wheels. Since the entire unit is in say ones bedroom/office; it actually is a heater. It pulls out water and it goes in the bucket and it adds heat since the entire unit is in the room.
    A window AC unit adds cooling and drying; the rear end/condenser is outside; the heat is "moved" outside.
    If one has a room in New Orleans and it is 90F and 85 % RH and one places a dehumidfier in the locked room; a big 50 quart per day unit is about like having a 800 watt space heater; the room might go to 105F; but the RH might drop down to 60 % RH; then it sits there and sucks moisture out of ones books; walls. Mositure can "wick" up through solid concrete walls and slabs forever.
    I have a PE license in Mechanical Eng in a few states; and have had 2 courses in AC; 4 in thermo; and own 5 dehumidifers and dozens of AC units
  25. ShunCheung

    ShunCheung Administrator

    The person I spoke to was quite helpful and suggested to send both camera and lens so they can have a look at them and that the camera would stand more of a chance of being repaired than the lens,​
    Sabin, I am quite surprised by that response. I assume there is no damage to the lens elements, which should account for most of the cost on the lens. Worst comes to worst, they could reuse the lens elements and change out the electronics, or they can at least reuse the lens elements as parts.
    The D300 has so much electronics inside that I would imagine that it'll difficult to save. If they need to take everything apart to clean and dry, the labor cost will be so high that you are simply much better off getting a new D300S or a used D300.
    Please keep in mind that time is not on your side. Rust can gradually form over time so that the sooner you send your camera to Nikon, the chance to save it, while slim anyway, is higher.
  26. Kelly, that for pointing the facts. Thermodynamics may have been one of my worst subjects while at
    Mizzou, but I do know for sure my lenses will gain condensation the moment I take them out of my
    airconditioned lab into the 100% RH Malaysian air. Same thing with my wife's glasses, the fog the
    moment she steps out of the car....just to show that airconditioned air IS dryer. And I make it a habit of
    hanging damp towels under the a/c vents when staying in hotels...
  27. ShunCheung

    ShunCheung Administrator

    Raden, Tom, and Kelly, this thread is about water damage to Sabin's D300 body and 24-70mm lens. If the three of you would like to discuss/debate about airconditioning and thermodynamics, please find the appropriate forum.
  28. This might sound odd and such, but, you can also if it is still wet, get a buch of isopropyl alchol. The higher the alcohol percent the better. Then you can submerge the equipment (sounds weird, i know) BUT the theory behind it is that the alcohol diplaces the water and also dries up water. Granted the equipment will still have to be sent in more than likely. I learned a hard lesson myself. I took my camera out of my vehicle and it feel to the ground like slow motion and busted the body and the lens. (I was up for a upgrade anyway). Now I wear my neck strap like my underwear. The camera never leaves my neck and it is around my neck before I take it out of the vehicle and on and on. Good luck.
  29. ShunCheung

    ShunCheung Administrator

    BTW, Sabin, I tried to send you e-mail, but your address @westnet.com.au seems to be no good.
  30. It strikes me given the cost of these two pieces that sending it straight off to Nikon is what I would do. I mean, what if you do it wrong and the moisture causes mildew and stuff? Are you always going to wonder if your images are compromised if you do it yourself? I would.
    I'd send it off.
  31. @Kelly and Raden - Sorry, but you are both wrong on the fact that the air immediately after it exits and AC has a very high relative humidity. The reason is probably that you are either (a) not distinguishing the cold air immediately after it exits the AC unit from the general air in the room, and/or (b) not distinguishing the total water content of the air from the relative humidity.
    Calculations (...skip this section if you are not interested in the details):

    The easiest way to see what's going on is to do a short calculation. Lets assume that we have an air conditioned room that starts at 30 C (86 F) and 70% RH, and we then turn on the AC unit. To make the calculations easy, let's assume that the room is well sealed, ie, no air can enter or leave the room except by passing through the air conditioner.
    Open this URL: http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/kinetic/watvap.html. Next, go down to the 30 C row of this table, and go over to the 4th column. This table tells you that if the RH of the room was initially 100%, there would be 30 grams per cubic meter (g/m^3) of water in the room. However, since the initial RH was assumed to be only 70%, this means that the initial density of water in the air of the room was 0.7 x 30 = 21 g/m^3.
    Next, let's see what happens to these numbers after 20% of the air in the room has passed through the AC unit. Let's assume that the temperature of the evaporator fins is as cold as possible without the fins icing up, ie, 0 C. Refer again to the table, but look at the 2nd line (ie, 0 C). This tells you that even if the RH of the air that is exiting the AC unit has a RH of 100% (as I stated), the absolute water content has been greatly reduced from 21 g/m^3 to 4.85 g/m^3, ie, a bit less than one quarter ( = 4.85 / 21) of its initial value.
    If the room has a volume 100 m^3, and 20% of the air (ie, 20 m^3) passed through the AC unit, this means that the absolute water content of the air in the room is now:
    [(80%) * (100 m^3) * (21 g/m^3) ] + [(20%) * (100 m^3) * (5 g/m^3)] = 1780 total grams of water (i.e., 17.8 g/m^3).
    The room temperature has also dropped, and to a good approximation (ie, assuming the same value of heat capacity, perfect mixing, no heat transfer to the outside, etc.), can be calculated in an analogous manner:
    [(80%) * (30 C) ] + [(20%) * (0 C)] = 24 C
    To calculate the RH of the room after 20% of the air has passed through the AC unit, we need data for 24 C. Unfortunately, the previous table only presents data in 5 C temperature increments, so we can either use it and approximate the value at 24 C, or use this more accurate calculator:
    http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/kinetic/relhum.html (scroll about 60% down the page)
    Both methods show that the saturated vapor pressure at 24 C is 21.8 gms / m^3. Since we have just calculated that the actual water content of the air is 17.8 gms / m^3, this means that the RH of the room is now 17.8 / 21.8 = 81.6 %.
    In other words, while the temperature has dropped, and the absolute amount of water in the room has also dropped, the RH has actually increased from 70% to 81.6% under the simple assumptions stated above, ie, no heat or air leaks from the room.
    The real world is not this perfect. In particular, heat from the outside is always leaking into an air conditioned room through the walls, windows, etc. When this happens, the temperature does not drop as much as calculated above. In the above example, lets assume that because of heat leaks, the temperature only drops by half of the value we calculated. In other words, instead of dropping 6 degrees (from 30 C to 24 C) when 20% of the air has been processed, it only drops by 3 degrees, ie, from 30 C to 27 C. At this temperature, the saturated water content is 25.86 g/m^3, so the RH is 17.8 / 25.86 = 68%, and the RH has indeed dropped.

    The above calculations demonstrate the seeming paradox of how an AC unit can put out cold air at extremely high (ie, 100%) relative humidity, but yet it always reduces the total amount of water in the air of the room. The calculations also demonstrate how an air conditioner can either increase the relative humidity (ie, in a thermally well insulated room) or decrease it (ie, with poorer insulation -- the more typical case that Kelly correctly described).
    This brings us back to Raden's suggestion to put an article that needs to be dried in front of the cold air exhaust from an AC unit. Unfortunately, this is not the best way to dry things. There are many reasons for this. The 100% RH issue discussed above is only one of them. A second issue is that cooling an article dramatically slows down the rate of outgassing of water from the article. However, probably the easiest way to see this is to ask how many clothes driers operate by passing cool air over the clothes. In fact, no drier operates this way. They all use heat.
    Tom M
    PS - Sorry for the length of the above. I teach engineering thermo to college seniors and it's easy to give too many details. If you don't care about the calculations, just skip over them to the "Conclusions" section.
  32. Shun - I wrote my last msg before seeing your comment on finding another forum. My intent was to dispel a very, very common misconception about using an AC to dry things out, but I fully understand your point, so please feel free to delete my last message. I'll email it to Kelly and Raden.
    Tom M
  33. ShunCheung

    ShunCheung Administrator

    Tom, no worries.
    I am no expert on water damage on photo equipment. However, I find some of the answers on this thread very questionable. If people have experties in this area, I am sure we welcome their suggestion. Otherwise, the OP has a camera and a lens that are both in the $1500 range. I sure hope that none of the suggestions here will make the problem worse and/or delay him from getting those items fixed properly, if possible. I am sure that Nikon repair is dealing with such water damage on a regular basis and they should know how to fix them better than anybody else.
    I was going to send e-mail to the OP suggesting him to send those items to Nikon ASAP, but that e-mail was rejected.
  34. Shun, thank you.
    I'm not sure why, but it seems that a large number of questionable "folk remedies" are inevitably suggested when it comes to drying things. Your suggestion is undoubtedly the best.
    Tom M
  35. Silica Gel is used widely in Telecommunications Industry to dry out cable and equipment. It absorbs moisture like crazy. I would imagine a few packets with the camera and lens in a sealed plastic bag would remove most of the moisture. It is also reusable by placing the packets in the oven to dry them out again. I googled Silica Gel and Olympus offers packets for around $6 each. Lots of camera equipment comes packaged with Silica Gel. I would have lens detached from the body and the more Silca Gel the better. I would give it a couple of weeks to dry out. I do agree that Nikon repair should look at it also.
  36. If you are an amateur, I suggest for the future that you consider adding coverage to your household or renters insurance. In the USA, optical and electronic equipment are usually excluded from coverage in the boilerplate language that most policies are written around, or the policy has a silly, low limit. For less than $60/year all of my cameras and lens and photographic equipment are covered. I learned this lesson from a friend in our photo club who had such insurance when she dropped a very expensive Canon lens in a puddle. The lens was toast, but the insurance paid for a replacement.
    For anyone who cannot afford to replace expensive gear easily, where acquiring the equipment was a sacrifice, perhaps for years of saving, I cannot emphasize how important a peanut sum like $60/year is in comparison to the risk of damage, including just being clumsy enough to drop one's gear. The Australian market hopefully should not be too much different. (Professional insurance is another matter.)
    On the wet side with the equipment, the camera is likely a loss if it was submerged long enough for water entry. I hope otherwise. The lens is sealed better, but is not watertight either. Fast withdrawal may have limited the entry. I second Shun's suggestions. A call to Nikon Australia, and shipping it out post haste if they think it is worth your while.
    Good luck.
    Dave Ralph
  37. As some of you have mentioned, probably sending the equipment to Nikon to asses the damage will be the best way to deal with this. My initial question was put out there to see if there was any way of minimising the damage (if that was in any way possible) by drying it quicker and not doing something that would increase the chances of me causing even more damage. At the end of the day I should have looked into getting some kind of insurance for my equipment, I do not own a lot of equipment but what I have purchased was of good quality and relatively expensive. I am usually very careful with my equipment but accidents do happen. This has been an expensive learning curve for me. Contacting my insurer will be one of the first things I do once I purchase a new camera and lens to see if they do offer any cover for this type of equipment (in Australia) I assume they do.
    I have changed my internet provider and I do not have access to that email address Shun that's why it could not be delivered, I do apologise. I have since changed my email address on this site so this should not happen in the future.
    Shun I am not sure why the person from Nikon thought that the lens would stand less of a chance than the camera to be salvaged, I am assuming here but I think the camera itself would be better sealed that the lens hence less of a chance of a lot of water entering. I have taken the battery and memory card out as soon as I got out of the water and I have plugged the card in my computer and it works, it did not get wet, however I am sure that some water has definitely entered the lens and even other parts of the camera. Thank you all once again for all your suggestions, it is very much appreciated.
  38. ShunCheung

    ShunCheung Administrator

    I have left a couple of CF memory cards in their little plastic cases in my pocket, and they went through the washing machine wash cycle. I forget whether they went through the dryer as well or not, but both memory cards continued to work 100% fine afterwards.
    If water got into your lens between the lens elements, even though you dry it out, most likely there is water streaks left on the elements. In that case you'll have to take the lens apart and clean the elements anyway. Therefore, there is no point to let it sit and hope that it will dry up, as rust may develop and your problem can get worse.
    As I have said before, I am strongly against buying unnecessary insurance. When it comes to things such as liability, you have no choice but to buy insurance because sometimes it is required by law and sometimes your liability could be huge. However, when it comes to camera equipment insurance, keep in mind that whatever the insurance company pays you comes from the collective premium, minus their overhead and profit. At least in the US, you see all sorts of TV commercials from insurance companies: Aflac (the duck), MedLife, AIG (before) .... When you buy insurance, you are paying for your own damage plus all of those overhead such as TV commercials and the salaries of those who work there .... It should be very obvious that you are much better off paying only for your own equipment damage when that happens without paying for all of those overhead year after year.
  39. Hi All,
    I've been shooting in wet to extremely wet conditions most of my career. The best and most reliable technique I've discovered is to use the oven. DO NOT put the equipment in the oven. Open the door, place a nice thick dry towel on the door, open up each piece of equipment to the utmost possible without using a screw driver. Turn the oven on to 200 degrees F. Periodically rotate the equipment, you will note that the side facing the oven is substantially warmer. The concept is to heat your equipment up to the point it would be on a hot summer day in a hot dry climate. It will vaporize the water and drive it off. If the equipment becomes to hot to touch, you are doing it wrong. Do this AS SOON AS POSSIBLE after the wetting so the least amount of damage is done to the equipment. In the case of total submersion for an extended time, get it into the shop as quickly as possible AFTER doing this. In the case of submersion in salt water, first re-submerge it in fresh water. Even dry salt will corrode the camera, though I must say that total submersion in salt water is rarely rescueable. Most camera repair guys will tell you to deliver a camera that has been submerged in salt water to them, submerged in fresh water. My assignments are such that I've never had that luxury. This technique has only failed me in times when I could not use the technique within hours of the wetting. Good luck!
  40. Thank you Mark for your suggestion. In the mean time I have sent both the camera and lens to Nikon Australia for servicing and after they had a look at both have advised me that it would not be cost effective to have either one of them repaired. The cost of repair would exceed the replacement cost. So a couple of days ago I received back my equipment and strangely enough there were still small droplets of water in my lens. I have kept both the camera and the lens on the dash board of my car in full sun for two days and today for the first time since the accident I inserted the battery and a CF card in my camera and to my amazement it does still work. The lens on the other hand does not. You have to force the lens to zoom in and out (manually) but it can still be focused and also there are water marks on the inside glass.
    As for the camera the only thing that I found that does not work is the inbuilt flash. I have attached my SB900 to the camera and it does fire just fine so it seems that it might just be the globe (is that what you call it?) from the inbuilt flash that might have shorted out. If the is the case can it be replaced?
    I have not had enough time to play around with it for too long but I'll try it out this weekend with another lens and I'll post some photos. I still can not believe it still works. Whether this is only temporary and it will fail catastrophically in the near future remains to be seen, I won't get my hopes up.

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