Want to try using multiple TTL flashes - How to do it right?

I own a Nikon N70 and an N8008. For indoor portraits I usually shoot

with my flash on a stroboframe quick flip, so I have an SC-17 off

camera TTL attachment. The three flashes I have are a SB-20, a

Sunpak 433, and a Vivitar 636 all are I believe TTL dedicated. I

have never tried using multiple flashes at the same time, but would

like to learn how. What other equipment will I need (SC-19 sync

cord?) and what kind of effect can I get from this (hairlight, catch

light, etc.)? Also, will I need to adjust the other flash to manual

and reduce power such as to 1/4 or 1/8 or will TTL control the output

for me. I would appreciate hearing from anyone who does something

similar and doesn't mind taking a few minutes to answer my

questions. Thank you for any help. Hope Shores

I had tried TTL with multiple flashes with an SB-50dx and an SB-28 once, it turned out that it is difficult to gt the desirable balance in lighting. The sole reason is that different flashes have different "intensity response curves", i.e. the master flash switches off before the slave flash has reached it's peak output. IOW, GN and subject distance are not the only two variables.

 

I think you are better off with flashes of one kind.

 

The SC-18/SC-19 are good for putting the flashes apart. The SC-17 is a great tool for putting flashes off camera. If you need to put them further apart, you'd either need a flash with a built-in slave or a wireless TTL slave like the SU-4. I have an SU-4 but it is not used any more because I have only one flash at the moment.

 

I figure manual flash would give more precise control in multiple flash lighting.

I also have a mixed bag of flahses: SB-26, Vivtar 285(non dedicated) and Sunpak 522 also non dedicated. The best results are obtained using them in manual mode with a flashmeter. It's also way cheaper than getting dedicated cables or SU-4 remote slaves.

 

The possible effects are only limmited by you imagination.

 

The output can be cotrolled by reducing the power - 1/2, 1/4 etc. or by moving the units closer/further from the subject. You could also try bouncing the light or adding diffusers.

 

Have fun experimemting.

The simplest way to get much better lighting for portraits is to use a simple umbrella set up. You'll need a light stand, a 36" umbrella and a bracket (Bogen 2905 SWIVEL UMBRELLA ADAPTER). The SC17 goes from the camera, and screws onto the adapter and the flash slides into the SC17 and fires into the umbrella. Set the umbrella just off to the side and above the camera. TTL exposure will still work so long as you don't move the light too far to the side. If the shadows are too dark you can use a piece of foam core board as a reflector to fill in the shadows. Anything more complex that this reqlly requires a flash meter and manually setting the flashes.

As mentioned in prior replies it's very difficult/impossible to get predictable/consistent results with multiple flashes (especially when different make & model) via TTL. I have SB20 and SB28 and the only way I've been able to get them to balance was to forgo TTL. I bounce both flashes into umbrellas and balance the light ratio using a hand held meter (Seiconic L358).

Get a good flashmeter, some slave triggers, and shoot these units on manual. With an all TTL setup, the camera will kill ALL the flashes

SIMULTANEOUSLY when the light is sufficient for exposure.<p>How will you be able to adjust the lighting ratios? The answer is to adjust the power output or distances between the flash and subject or background. In order to determine that, you need a flashmeter and individually measure the output of each flash. After you've done all that, you may as well use the reading from the flashmeter to take the shot.<p>In short, forget about TTL multi-unit flash.

I agree with Mr Lai. Having tried the SC-17, SC-19, SU-4 TTL route I switched to all manual strobes and a flashmeter. Total control is what you want. Relying on the camera gives inconsistent results, especially when changing compositions on the fly, and it's not as gratifying. Read a bunch of threads in the lighting archives for instruction from people on how to do it all manually - that's where I learned.