W/NW Pic-O'-The-Week #9

Welcome peeps to #9, #9, #9, well you get it. Time to post your fave pic of the week. No slackers, please post your photos. I'll start with a photo taken at one of our local eateries of our waitress, taken with a Fuji X-Pro2 and a Leica Summicron 50.

Lets see yours!

Now, that is good Uhooru. Nailed it, and with a 50mm. Almost looks like an 85 or 135. Well done. Just good. My contributions are a couple of shots from my residential - trying to learn koine greek. Both are fellow participants. The files may be oversize. For the life of me, I've tried to downsize in photoshop and lightroom, to no avail. Anyway, both were taken, again, with my new found debt, a monochrom m, and with a steinheil munchen 135 lens - it seems to be a good lens. Sorry for the link, rather than the image. I'll try and sort this out before the next time. As an aside, I'm developing some fp4 from a cosina which I sought advice from on the classic manual cameras. If they work out, I'll post them there in the next couple of days. Regards. Arthur (apiarist1)

 

 

I must say that the monchrom is profoundly unforgiving with highlights. I still have to master its ASA menu. Here is an example of blown out highlights and bad technique:

 

 

Tough conditions with uneven direct light. It looks like extreme unforgiving sensitivity to light contrast levels. It doesn't help that light skin is highly reflective.

Time to warm the "cockles of your heart"

 

Dream the dream of being a wild thing.

I must say that the monchrom is profoundly unforgiving with highlights. I still have to master its ASA menu. Here is an example of blown out highlights and bad technique:

 

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Thanks for approving of my photo Arthur. Could you perhaps, try uploading photos at a smaller size so they will show in the stream? You know sometimes when shooting digital, I find it best to treat it like you are shooting slide film. Expose for the highlights, opposite of shooting with negative film. If your camera allows it, you can try shooting in spot meter mode, do you get live view on that camera? If so, you put the spot on the area of the photo that gives you an exposure you like (WYSIWYG), lock the exposure, re-compose and fire. Its actually very fast in once you get used to it and works very well in fluky light.

Inside corridor of Healy Hall, Georgetown University, DC

 

 

M240, 21mm f/2.8 Elmarit-M (Pre-ASPH)

Unusual snow-dump up here. 50mm Summilux.

Leica M6, 28mm Asph Summicron

 

MP, 50mm 'cron, Velvia 100.

Something is happening with my Velvia shots. I know the film stock I have in the freezer is very and the images don't have that "pop" and saturation as before, but I was still under impression that film kept in Freezer should last without loss of its qualities. Anyway...

There are several posts on the net regarding stale dated film. Regardless of freezer storage, some film ends to lose both saturation and speed. I've had some luck, although not like new images, but I raise the ASA number a one stop equivalent. It also helps, sometimes, to make sure I don't underexpose.