john_robison3 Posted December 5, 2012 Share Posted December 5, 2012 <p>Part of the vulcanite is chipping and falling off my M4-2. That's fine, I thought. I'll just order a replacement from Aki-Asahi. Now the problem, while some is just falling off the rest is stuck so tight I can't see any way to remove it. I have tried a sharp screwdriver as a wedge to chip it off a little bit at a time but it's really stuck tight. Any ideas I haven't tried yet.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCL Posted December 5, 2012 Share Posted December 5, 2012 <p>Isopropyl alcohol or lighter fluid to dissolve some of the adhesive. Instead of a metal screwdriver to pry it loose, try using a sharpened bamboo spear (like used in cooking), with its end flattened, it won't scratch the metal.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leicaglow Posted December 5, 2012 Share Posted December 5, 2012 You can also use a plastic putty knife, like the kind included in the top of a spackle tube to touch up walls. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_robison3 Posted December 5, 2012 Author Share Posted December 5, 2012 <p>Thanks, I'll try a solvent. I have 91 percent Isopropyl and Zippo lighter fluid. I know where I can get some MEK, I would only worry about some solvent seeping into the works.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_mareno1 Posted December 5, 2012 Share Posted December 5, 2012 <p>John, don't worry about the solvent seeping anywhere. It will evaporate. Be careful w/ MEK, as it's flammable, potentially explosive, and nasty stuff to inhale.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
christopher_a._junker1 Posted December 5, 2012 Share Posted December 5, 2012 <p>John, Steve's warning is a good one. MEK is one of the nastiest aromatic solvents. If at all possible work in a lab with a good ventilation system and no possible ignition sources. Or go outside like at a picnic table. Has anyone tried superglue debonder to remove vulcanite?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
User_4754088 Posted December 5, 2012 Share Posted December 5, 2012 <p>This process really works. It's a bit messy, but if you do it right and give the stripper time, it worked very well for me with my M2.</p> <p>http://www.cameraleather.com/leica_m/vulcanite/</p> <p>Good luck.</p> <p>Best,<br> -Tim</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_robison3 Posted December 5, 2012 Author Share Posted December 5, 2012 <p>Tim, fantastic! Thanks for the link. This looks like the least violent way to do the job. I just got a cover for my Olympus 35RC from Camerleather but did not think to check out the rest of their site.</p> <p>This vulcanite was weird. The place where it was falling off was the advance side of the camera, especially in the back right where the palm of your hand goes when you grip the camera. Perhaps oil from the skin eventually penetrated and loosened the bond between the camera and covering. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gus Lazzari Posted December 5, 2012 Share Posted December 5, 2012 <p>A valuable Leica coupled to all this talk of <strong>gambling</strong> on chisels, MEK, superglue debonder and<br /> <em>YouTube</em>/website paint remover<strong> !</strong></p> <p>(((<strong> CRINGE </strong>)))<strong> ...</strong></p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_robison3 Posted December 5, 2012 Author Share Posted December 5, 2012 <p>I forgot to mention that the vulcanite also seems to have something to do with light sealing the bottom cover. When I first got the camera I had no problem with any leak. But after the cover began chipping away I sometimes had the streak of a light leak right from the area that lost the vulcanite next to the bottom (top of the negative).</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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