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Voigtlanger Vito CL focusing


aslan_ivo

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I just acquired a nice minty Voigtlander Vito CL

Fine in all aspects, not a scratch, very pretty rangefinder camera

etc.

 

However, I'd appreciate assistance with two questions:

 

1- How does this rangefinder focus? The focussing knob has a

distance scale on it, with symbols for distance settings for group

shots and individual portraits and scenery. However, inside the

center of the range finder, there is a yellow spot. I assume that's

used as part of a focusing mechanism, and I assume this is NOT the

sort of camera that you're supposed to set the focus by

guesstimating the distance to the subject and simply setting the

focussing knob to that guestimated distance. Is this right?

 

Right now, by moving the focusing knob, nothing happens to the image

in the yellow spot in the range finder, so I assume the focussing

mechanism is broken/misaligned, right?

 

 

2- lightmeter is dead. I assume this really can't be fixed?

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The yellow spot suggests it's a rangefinder, but I don't think the Vito CL was. I have a Vito CLR which is a rangefinder, and as far as I know, the "R" distinguished it as such. It also has no logos on the lens for guesswork focusing. If the front of the camera has only one viewfinder window, it's not a rangefinder. Here's a reference with some specs and pictures:

 

http://www.amdmacpherson.com/classiccameras/index.html

 

The dead lightmeter may be truly dead, but it might be worthwhile opening up the top for a look, just on the off chance that the needle has jammed or something. It's a pretty simple meter setup, so you should be able to diagnose it pretty quickly.

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Hi all -- I have just found the manual to this Vito CL online and apparently the rangefinder is supposed to show the double image for focusing. However, it doesn't. There was a rattle in the case, and when I opened the top I saw that the mirror which reflected the lightmeter needle image into the rangefinder had fallen off, but other than that nothing's wrong. I will reglue the mirror into place with superglue but the mirror seems stationary and not moveable so I still can't figure out how the double image rangefinder image is formed or changes.

 

Oh well, I guess time to buy the repair manual -- but any help is appreciated in the meantime. For example, can't the selenium cell be replaced by a new one?

 

The focusing ring has three symbols in addition to the distance numerals, by the way.

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If this is the Voigtlander rangefinder of the 1950's and 60's that I'm familiar with, then the rangefinder is made up of various glass elements that are cemented together. IN particular, there is a large block that comprises the viewfinder, and a second, smaller block to the right through which the rangefinder image is transmitted into the viewfinder. If those blocks have come unglued, your rangefinder will not work. I just took the top off my Vito CLR and stuffed it in the scanner, and this post should be accompanied by a rather poor shot of its rangefinder. The red arrow points to the joint that is unglued on mine. At the upper right corner of the large white block is the pivot point (silver screw head) of the (black metal) lever that operates the rangefinder. A rod comes up from the lens under that pivot point, and the large black lever rotates clockwise as you approach infinity. There is a little silver pointed cam which bears on the gray, L-shaped lever whose pivot point is a brass hex nut. What you cannot see in this picture is that that gray lever swings a lens sideways in front of the rangefinder prism which is more or less wrapped up beneath the mechanism, and, at least in my example, is the part that has come adrift from the large white viewfinder block. As you can see, that block is held down by a large metal strap, and the rest of the mechanism is loose. If the mechanism is in working order and still glued together, it can be adjusted. On the black lever, you see two slotted screw heads, and two triangular holes. If you loosen a screw, you can fine adjust the range with a small screwdriver in the slots. The square head just below the pivot point of the lever adjusts the vertical alignment. I hope that helps a little.<div>00EUqM-26946784.jpg.3af53c5771f376cc2fa06bf19946cd22.jpg</div>
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There's a number "4" written in pencil on the block.

The manual for this CL clearly states that you're supposed to see a double-image in the focus bright spot as you focus. But after removing the rangefinder block, I don't see anything that moves when the focus ring is adjusted.<div>00EUuc-26948484.JPG.8caea02a58ab3bf2a94b863cd872d59b.JPG</div>

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This is what the camera top looks without the rangefinder. I have also shown the place where there was a loose mirror. This mirror apparently reflects an image of the lightmeter needles into the clear slit along the side of the rangefinder block, so the lightmeter needles are visible on the bottom of the rangefinder. There is a bright yellow spot in the middle of the rangefinder too but it doesn't show the double image whilst focusing, which the manual says should be there.
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<blockquote><i>

I guess the CL only focuses by guestimating distances? I've never had to rely on that method exclusively before. Any hints, suggestions?

</blockquote></i>

<p>Your best bet is an accessory rangefinder. Guesstimating is a difficult art and needs a lot of trial-and-error. I always write down the details for each exposure (aperture, speed, distance, ect) so I can check later where and what went wrong. For minimum focus I fully extend my left arm, hand and fingers -- I know that this has a length of about 80cm. Looks stupid and confuses your subject, but I get the idea when I have to move a little further back or closer.

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Come on, Aslan, external rangefinders are simple optical devices that go into the accessory shoe of any camera. Of course they are uncoupled to your camera/lens, but they should give you the correct distance if they are working correctly. All major camera manufactures made these things, and they can be found for about €20 on that big auction site (more for collector's items like the Leicameter and Contameter). My Certo Certos came attached to a camera I bought for €1 and though it is a bit dim, it does help me putting the depth-of-field where I want it to be in close-focus situations.
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I am not too familiar with the different models of external rangefinders and can give you no advise which one is the most accurate or brightest. It is probably safest to buy one with a respectable brand name, e.g. Voigtländer, Zeiss Ikon or Leica but those will also be the most expensive. My East German Certos is definitively not the best there is, but it works for me.

<p>

Better start a new thread and ask for suggestions.

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I think you might find that with practice "guesswork" focusing is not all that difficult. Remember that depth of field increases with distance as well as with smaller apertures, so the only time you really need to be very accurate is when you use larger apertures at closer distances, which are usually not all that hard to estimate with practice. It's really pretty easy to distinguish between, say, 4, 6 and 8 feet, and even longer distances can be estimated pretty well with practice. I was surprised at how quickly I got used to zone focusing a Rollei 35, for example, despite my qualms about not having a rangefinder. That's not to discourage you from finding a rangefinder accessory for the Voigtlander, especially since such a thing will be universally useful, but I'd encourage you to go out and burn some film while you wait for it to show up.
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Hi Aslan,

I asked on the type of Vito CL as I have the same camera and mine has no symbols at all only distances in feet. I also have a B, BL, C, and several Bessas with only 1 Bessa being the RF model. A shoe mounted rangefinder is readily available usually for a few dollars. I have a Prazissa and it works well for me.

Just one HUGE caution for you: if you glue anything glass or nearby to glass with any super glue, the gas given off while the glue cures will turn your viewfinder window and any nearby glass a lovely milk white or opaque and usually render it useless. That's one trick I learned the hard way, and no, not by watching CSI although that is also one way to record fingerprints. If you've glued the mirror and find this haze has developed, sometimes you can try white vinegar on a Qtip swab VERY gently and get nice results. Hope this helps and solves a question or two. Enjoy the Voigtlander, nice camera.

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Thanks everyone for all the tips. My first roll came out pretty much just fine without a rangefinder.

 

It would be easier to locate on of them gosh-darned EXTERNAL rangefinders (keep up David!) on ebay if there was a way of narrowing the search parameters -- right now I get tons of regular rangefinder cameras! Anyway, a friend has a watameter and I'll be trying it out. I wonder if one of them laser thingies can substitute . . .

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I wondered about those laser rangefinders, too. But they seem to be pretty expensive, and the cheaper rangefinders use ultrasound which may be sufficient for metering rooms but will probably work not so well for people or crowded space. But I haven't tried them as I found my external optical RF soon enough. Keep browsing through the right categories and the old RF's will keep turning up. Good luck!
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Certo6 on ebay sells the accessory rangefinders. He cleans and calibrates them first and wants to be paid for his work, so they aren't necessarily super cheap. Contact him directly, you don't have to wait for an auction.

 

I have 2 different Vito's (a clr with rangefinder and a BL without). I like the one without better. Read about hyperfocal distances.

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