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vivitar 285HV or NOT?


geraint_hughes

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<p>Someone plz help............i like off camera flash photography and i want to get 2, i shoot with canon 50d and they will be triggerd by pocket wizards 11,and inside a 28' softbox and sometimes umbrella, now ive been looking at the vivitar 285hv, but im having mixed thoughts when reading what people are saying,mostly good but a few not so ! ill be shooting the flash in manual mostly , and will be both in door and out, and it will be for portraits and full legnth fashion shots. Im really stuck and really dont know what to get with a budget, but im really desparate to get on. You guys are the ones to ask, so id be reallygreatfull for your adivce and help.</p>
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<p>Since you're planning on using radio remotes there's no issue with compatibility. However, are you sure this is the best solution for your intended use? I've cobbled together multiple battery powered flash units many times for projects and while usable it's a pain in the neck. If it's within the budget you're better off with an entry level kit of a pair of monolights. The only possible advantage to battery powered hotshoe flashes is the portability - other than that the whole "strobist" approach is too often hyped as the wrong solution.</p>
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<p>I heard the new versions are not very well made, so if you get them, I'd get two of the older ones, used. They are slightly underpowered for using with umbrellas and softboxes, unless you use two into one modifier, but you don't get twice the power--you just get 1 stop more, in effect.</p>
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<p>I have the newer one, and I like it. There was one weak point that dissatisfied me, though: the PC cord connection. Weak spring. Funny position requirement on the proprietary jack. -10 points for that. [Really needs to be redesigned for a regular PC cord.] All else: very good. Good durability.</p>

<p>I bypass that cord connection with a PC cord hot shoe adapter. +$20.</p>

<p>The flash shows its best performance when used in conjunction with the AC adapter; it's basically a small studio strobe that's just small enough to run off of batteries. On battery power, it is still okay; but slower on the recycle time. A handy, all around good utility flash, I think.</p>

<p>If you use DSLR auto stuff, keep in mind this is an all-manual flash. There will be no fancy computer functions: none. No auto-nothing.</p>

<p>Despite the limitations I've outlined above, this is the only flash unit that I think I would recommend. Keep in mind, I don't buy very many. But, I've gotten this one twice, if that tells you anything.</p>

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<p>thx guys for the advice, the reason i want to go with flash's rather than studio lighting heads is the portability as i have lots of requests to do photoshoots in some awkard outside places, so its so much easier. Yes ive read about the new vivitar 285hv shoe, butive read u can buy a metal one and simply replace it. Well im happy to go with 2 of the vivitars now then, ill get the new style though as iveheard some things about the voltage of the older ones. And ill buy a canon 580 ex 11 for my wedding shoots. Thx all for your help once again. All have a great xmas if i dont speak to you before.</p>
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<p>I own four Vivitar 285HVs plus the very similar Vivitar 283. They're cheap, powerful and dependable all in one package. If you know how to calculate exposure and lighting ratios manually there's no need to pay three or four times as much for automated units. Most of my photo experience is in the newspaper world, and for many years these were standard equipment for most news photographers -- people who need equipment that works every single time and equipment that can take a beating. You can't got wrong with Vivitar flash.</p>
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<p>I use the 285HV's and 283's, I use one hard wired via the pc sync cord the other one is with a optical type slave with shoot threw, and reflective umbrellas, as well as a 40" brolly box umbrella I bought to control light spill.if you use these flashes directley connected to the camera ,you have to be very careful to check the sync voltage prior to using it. some of these flashes produce up to 300v. when in doubt use a safe sync.The newer 285HV's produce under 6v which is safe for your camera. here is a great link for some info on the 285hv <a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.aljacobs.com/ultimate_vivitar_285hv_page.htm" target="_blank">http://www.aljacobs.com/ultimate_vivitar_285hv_page.htm</a> The 285Hv's can be purchased for about $85.00 each and offer a guide number of 120@ iso 100 with full manual control in 1/16-1/8/-1/4-1/2 and full power modes. also the peanut slaves by wein are a great asset and are cheap.</p>
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  • 2 weeks later...

<p>Vivitar now has two newer flash series, the 283 and 383(more power), for $90 and $130 (B&H prices), both are available in TTL compatible versions for the major DSLR brands, Canon, Nikon, Pentax, Olympus and Sony. I understand that both have optical sensors for manual use.<br>

I would check these out before buying a 285HV. I can confirm Nadine's comment re the 285HV quality. I originally bought 2 units, one of the first two stopped working, and was replaced by Vivitar as I was just beyond the B&H return date. Now another has died and I will not replace it and think I will trash the other one as I don't trust it anymore. <br>

I am considering the MPEX LumoPro LP120 as well as the new Vivitars. I like the LumoPro particularly as it can go to 1/32 power. The Vivitars old and new only go down to 1/16, and the 285HV has no 1/8 setting (goes 1/4 to 1/16 only....go figure that one!).<br>

If you can find a used Sunpak 383 I would consider it if the price is right (but only goes to 1/16 power).</p>

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