Visiting Peru

When thinking about a trip in August in South America,to photograph

what I like the most,people, the first country that comes to my mind

is Peru, as the people has such a strong etnic appearence. But one

of the worst thing in doing such trips is when you go to places

where the locals live on turism, so when you pull out a camera, you

are surrounded by lots of people asking for money;all the naturality

is gone. I'd like to hear experiences from you peolpe who have been

there about it. Are Cuzco and Machu Pichu the places to go,or any

other good spots?

Thanks,

André Vallejo (from Brazil)

Andre,

 

I spent 10 days in the Cusco - Machu Picchu areas last May. You are correct that the locals definately expect payment for photographs, however I usually refrain from the practice when I can. One way I avoid a direct pay-for-picture situation is to make a small purchase from the street artisans and merchants. I can work in a few shots while checking out the goods and during the transaction.

 

Cusco is obviously the starting point for the trip you envision. The history of the city alone is worth seeing. It's also very interesting to see the remains of the Inca culture mixed in with the Spanish influences after the conquest. Try to avoid the mini-bus city tours. You really need to be able to roam on your own timetable to make the most of your photo opportunities. There are plenty of private taxi's that can take you out to the ruins. I hired a taxi for a day to visit market day at Pisco and I was able to take my time that way. One of the most enjoyable aspects of the trip was the train ride to Machu Piccu. This is where I really suggest you get away from the tourist routine.

 

It's a really great experience on an old bumpy South American train. The scenery of the river valley leading to Aquas Calientes is wonderful. The trains are open windowed, and at all stops the locals come out to sell food (try the corn)and other items to the train riders. The typical tourist itinerary is to take the train early from Cusco, stop for a couple hours in Ollantaytambo, then on to Machu Piccu. What I recommend is that you get off in Ollantaytambo, spend the night, then have the entire Ollantaytambo ruins to yourself in the morning before the first train from Cusco arrives.

 

I also recommend spending a couple of days in Aquas Calientes so you can get up to Machu Picchu in the morning before the first train arrives from Cusco. It can be quite overcast in the a.m. at Machu Picchu so a couple of mornings for visits help the odds of getting good weather. My first morning at the ruins they were covered in clouds, the next morning was beautiful and clear. I wasn't able to get to other parts of Peru due to time contraints, so others will have to pitch in there.

 

I am just rescanning my Peru work, but in a couple weeks you can check it out at www.keithdunlop.com. Feel free to email me for restaurant and hotel recommendations.

Hmmmm, I was in Iquitos, Lima, Cuzco and MP. Unfortunately IMHO these places are SOOO touristy that you are going to be hard pressed to find some real 'natives' like the women with the bowler hats etc. The good thing is sometimes you find festivals or dances or something FOR tourists that nevertheless offer good photos of locals in the local garb.

 

Definitely get OFF the tourist path, maybe take a mt bike around a bit of the areas your will be in for some snaps. There is definitely a pay per shot mentality in the tourist sites. Even hiring a car and driver to tour around the countryside will bring you INUMERABLE opportunities for the much more 'authentic' shot, especially if your driver can translate for you.

 

Basically in all of LatAm, I found the best native people shots off the tourist track, on my bus trips and wandering around the city or countryside on my own. Its logistically daunting sometimes (and I speak pretty good Spanish) but its WELL worth it for the photo ops.

 

Michael

I found that the Northern Highlands were almost devoid of tourists and as a consequence, the locals were friendly and helpful. there are also huge numbers of ruins being discovered in the Chachapoyas region, and it has been said that in time it could rival the Sacred Valley as a tourist destination (they'd need to seriously improve the roads there first though). The locals wouldn't be as colourfully dressed as those in the Cuzco region though.

 

Cuzco is great though, many great photos to be had there.

 

Again, something to remember. Be very aware of showing off your camera in the major tourist areas as where tourists gather, so too do thieves and scam artists. No need to be overly paranoid, but just be aware of it.

 

Enjoy the trip, the Sacred Valley is well worth seeing. I'm sure you'll love it...... I know I did.

 

All the best. Gearoid

Why not consider going in the opposite direction from Lima? I was in the Cordillera Blanca two years ago for some mountaineering, and the area around Huaraz is relatively unspoilt. Most of the visitors there are interested in trekking and climbing, and are not "regular tourists". The only times I was asked for money was in small villages by small children.

I have spent one month in Peru in 98. I agree that it is hard to take pictures there: even if you just want to take picture of the landscape, hundreds of kids will suddenly come out of nowhere and gather in front of your camera, ruining your picture and they will ask you money for it... If you go to cuzco you might want to take the train to puno, a small town on lake titicaca. It's a 5h trip and the scenery is worth it. Plus it might be a little less touristical. From there you can visit the uros island which is a real tourist trap or Taquile island which is really nice. Ruins can also be visited nearby Puno. But never forget one thing: If you go to Peru, no matter how aware or paranoid you are, they will manage to steal something from you anyhow...

Thanks all for the answers,they are extremely useful in helping me to set it up...know I'm also thinking about hiking in the Huarascan National Park,in the North...will see!

Hi Andre,

I think this is a widespread problem. Although I haven't been to Peru, I have had to deal with this kind of problem in both remote areas and more touristy spots in Brazil. Once I was "charged" US$100.00 for photographing a few boys doing Capoeira.

 

I have recently read an article by an English photographer where he talks about the importance of building a rapport with the subject.On a photo trip to Cuba he added a Polaroid camera to his usual equipment. He would approach his subjects, photograph them with the Polaroid, give them the photos (they were thrilled by what looked like magic!), and only then would he proceed with the actual shooting. No need to say that the results were outstanding!

 

Now, the other option would be candid shots, which judging by your gallery you are not new to.

 

Looking forward to seeing the images of your trip to Peru.

 

Best regards,

Norle (also from Brazil)

Well,in the end I'll be going south,(Arequipa,Puno and...Machu Pichu!) As I know what's expecting me,I can´t be let down,right? We´ll see...

Norle, this technique you describe is older that you might have thought. I don't remember the name of the photographer but there's an excellent and classic photo of chinese soldiers looking intensely at their polaroid picture self-developing.

Andre,

 

I just wanted to say that I`ve been to see your exhibition at the Centro Cultural da Justiça Federal. Congratulations for your beautiful work.

 

Best regards,

Norle

Hi All.

Came back from Peru and just managed to put the photos in my website...Thanks all for the precious hints,they all really helped!

www.andrevallejo.net into Documental