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Value of Two Nikkor Non-AI Lenses?


Vincent Peri

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I bought a Nikon F2A camera in fantastic condition, and it came with 2 non-AI lenses which I don't need. Does anyone have any idea what the following 2 lenses might be worth? I looked on eBay, but there was such a wide variation in asking prices that I decided I'd get a better evaluation here.

 

Nikkor 43-86 f/3.5 non-AI, serial # 460xxx (yes, it's the lens everyone says is a lemon). It is in excellent/excellent- condition, but with some engraving on the barrel. Feet/meter numbers on focusing ring and aperture ring numbers are in excellent condition. Has Nikon HN-3 lens hood and front/rear caps.

 

Nikkor-P 105 f/2.5 non-AI, serial # 198xxx. It is in good condition. Lots of paint loss on focusing ring and some engraving on lens barrel. Feet/meter scale numbers are dingy looking, but aperture numbers are in much better shape. Has proper Nikon HS-4 lens hood and front/rear caps.

 

Thanks for any recommendations.

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The site doesn't do valuations, so your best bet is to rely more heavily on COMPLETED SALE prices, not asking prices on Ebay....they're worth what the buyers will pay, given condition. Buyers often inflate asking prices butsetle for much less.
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Here's a general tip that could be useful when pricing any used lens. Search for the lens on eBay, and then on the search results page, in the filter settings on the left, under "Show only", select "Sold items". That will filter the results to include only items sold in the last two months or thereabouts. You can also sort the results by price to easily see roughly what the median was.

 

Both of your unwanted lenses are common enough that you should get a good data set to work with.

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Bought my copy of the 43-86 back in 1979 a.o. together with my F2AS, still have it myself, although just for nostalgic reasons

In its days it was, despite the limited zoomrange (not really wide at the short side), useful as an affordable short zoom

But from an optical and IQ point of view it wasn't the best one around and consequently has little value 2nd hand nowadays

 

The 2.5/105 P already was kind of legendary for its IQ in the film days, and still is nowadays

There basically are based upon the lens design two versions of the P series 105mm, the Sonnar design P, and the later (since 1971) Gauss PC version

See eg Bjorn Roslett's review at NÆRFOTO Bjørn Rørslett (you'll have to do some scrolling and clicking to find the short review)

 

Based on the #198xxx serial number you mention I after some research on Nikon Lens Versions and Serial Nos get the impression

your copy is a pre 1971 Sonnar version

Value can between well over $200 for a mint one, to maybe little over $75 for a dingy one ( I recently got an early 1971 Gauss one for Eur 120)

The sales value for your copy probably will take a hit though since it's a non Ai and consequently can't be used on most modern Nikon DSLR's, so IMO don't expect too much

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If it is the version 1 of the 43-86, I would not bother AI converting it, unless you really want to. The version 2 of the lens is better, and it wasn't expensive. I have both versions.

Ver 1 was my first Nikon lens, and it worked just fine as a daylight lens. But it sucked in low light, as you would expect from a f/3.5 lens, and with Tri-X pushed all the way up to 1200.

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If it is the version 1 of the 43-86, I would not bother AI converting it, unless you really want to. The version 2 of the lens is better, and it wasn't expensive. I have both versions.

Ver 1 was my first Nikon lens, and it worked just fine as a daylight lens. But it sucked in low light, as you would expect from a f/3.5 lens, and with Tri-X pushed all the way up to 1200.

 

Thanks for your comments, Gary.

 

It's only $25 per lens to convert to AI, so I've decided to definitely convert the 105 f/2.5, since I hate doing stop down metering LOL. I'd like to see how different/similar(?) the old non AI and the newer AI/AIS versions are.

 

The version 1 of the 43-86, since you say it worked fine as a daylight lens, just might be worth converting too. I almost never shoot at twilight and later, unless it's with a flash or using Kodak's reintroduced P3200 or Ilford's Delta 3200.

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John White AI Conversions - a great job & an gentleman to deal with! Have done a bunch of lenses with him.

 

John White converted my 105mm f/2.5 lens. It works perfectly on both my F100 and my D750. John is not only a great technician, but he is a gentleman to do business with.

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Just FWIW, my impression is that the 43-86 is so prone to flare that it's now getting used as a special effects lens (for the instagram/lomography generation). Just if that inspires you to hope it's not entirely worthless. If it's not too expensive to do, you might get more interest from impulse purchasers if it's converted for this reason. It's not really my thing (I prefer to start with an optically good image and then mess it up accidentally in Photoshop), but these people exist. :-)
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43-86 f/3.5 non-AI, serial # 460xxx (yes, it's the lens everyone says is a lemon)

 

Actually, it would be kinder to simply note that in the early days of zoom design, the unavoidable compromises in image quality seemed justified by the 'handiness' of not having to swap 'primes'.

 

Nikkor-P 105 f/2.5 non-AI

On the other hand, some people at some points of historical development considered this to a candidate for "the best Nikkor ever"

 

Neither of them have much monetary value, however.

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Just FWIW, my impression is that the 43-86 is so prone to flare that it's now getting used as a special effects lens (for the instagram/lomography generation). Just if that inspires you to hope it's not entirely worthless. If it's not too expensive to do, you might get more interest from impulse purchasers if it's converted for this reason. It's not really my thing (I prefer to start with an optically good image and then mess it up accidentally in Photoshop), but these people exist. :)

 

Actually that is one reason that I will not get rid of the version 1 lens. The ver 2 lens has less flare.

When I want a flare effect, that is the lens to do it.

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The older (silver nosed) 105mm Nikkor-P "Sonnar" has come back into vogue lately (for years it was unfairly sneered at as inferior to the later "Gauss" version). If you're the type who can actually tell the difference between the "signatures" of similar lenses, you might prefer it. The rendering difference between the earlier and later 105mm Nikkors is very similar to the differences between the earlier 5.8cm and 50mm f/.4 Nikkors, or earlier Nikkor-S 5cm f/2 vs Nikkor-H 50mm f/2. While hardly cutting edge today, the later Nikkors hew closer to the "look" of modern glass, while the older Nikkors have more of a vintage rendering. Whether one can see the differences to begin with, or exploit them artistically, is highly subjective (esp if the lenses cost significant money). If you got these two relatively cheap in a package eBay deal, you've got nothing to lose: both are mid-run serial # with removable mount, easy to AI modify. The 43-86 is unfortunately the earlier less-good version, but worth a spin: you might like it for certain things.

 

As far as monetary value, neither is worth a lot. The 105mm resale potential is hobbled by the user-engraved barrel, tho if AI modified could still approach $80 or more depending on glass clarity. Early 43-86 lenses are typically sold as body caps with old Nikkormats: essentially worthless unless pristine and AI-modified. The second version 43-86 has an inexplicable cult following: its an OK lens overall, but the zoom range remains neither here nor there.

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The rendering difference between the earlier and later 105mm Nikkors is very similar to the differences between the earlier 5.8cm and 50mm f/.4 Nikkors,

 

I've only owned/used the Sonnar version of the 105mm f/2.5, and although it has something of an old "look" it still looks better to my eye wide-open than the 5.8cm.

 

The 5.8cm definitely has its own charm and I like it very much, but it's loaded with spherical abberation, has very low contrast, and a distinctive "swirly" bokeh when wide open. It does sharpen up nicely once stopped down a bit.

 

With a healthy "do so at your own risk" caveat, I'll also add that the 5.8cm will mount on DSLRs(and AI film SLRs aside from the F2 series) with an aperture follower tab. The aperture ring is cut JUST such that it will clear the tab and not foul on it, although of course you don't get metering.

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The two versions of 105mm are much closer in performance than the other Nikkors I cited: I mentioned those more as a point of overall reference. Perhaps I should have left out the 5.8cm, since it is more of a wildcard performance-wise: I'd say the more accurate comparison duo would be the 5cm Nikkor-S vs 50mm Nikkor-H. The former has somewhat different separation of foreground/background, different field flatness, different color contrast that is more pleasing for some subjects. But also less predictable: those same qualities sometimes evaporate, or aren't helpful to a particular photograph. The latter is less capable of pleasant surprises, but also a more predictable consistent tool. I enjoy using both versions of 50mm and 105mm.

 

I'd be wary mounting the 5.8cm on modern AI-compatible Nikon DSLRs. It very badly fouls the AI follower tab on my D700: attempts to adjust the aperture ring feel like they'd snap the tab off. Also, the meter doesn't couple or read correctly with non-AI lenses, Unfortunately the 5.8cm has no mount screws on the rear bayonet, making it more difficult to AI modify, so for me its more of a F/F2 film-body or Sony A7 mirrorless lens.

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