Using zooms with variable max apertures with a manual camera?

Firstly sorry if this question has a blaringly obvious answer. What

is the nuisance of using zooms with variable max apertures with

manual cameras?

I ask because I am searching for the right zoom for my Nikon FM.

Right now I only have a Micro-Nikkor 55mm AIS, which I purchased

because it seemed to dobule as a "normal" lens.

 

The zoom range I want is wide-~50 or so. Wider would be better, but I

understand more costly. Covering up to ~85mm would be nice, but

overly optomistic?

 

(If it's not too much trouble) What zooms would you suggest? and Is

paying 40$ for a Nikkor 35-70mm f/3.3-4.5 zoom with broken AF stupid?

If you shoot slides, and need the exposure right on, it can be a PITA. If you're shooting print film you can just set the exposure for the long/slow end and overexpose the wide end. I used a variable aperture zoom for many years on manual cameras. If the 35-70 range suits your needs the price is fine.

<<Is paying 40$ for a Nikkor 35-70mm f/3.3-4.5 zoom with broken AF stupid? >>

 

Stupid may be too strong a word. How about "not cost-effective"?

 

<<The zoom range I want is wide-~50 or so. Wider would be better, but I understand more costly. Covering up to ~85mm would be nice, but overly optomistic? ... (If it's not too much trouble) What zooms would you suggest?>>

 

Your feet, plus a 24mm fixed focal length Nikkor AI lens and an 85mm fixed focal length Nikkor AI lens (or the justly famous AI Nikkor 105mm f/2.5).

 

Have fun,

<em>"The zoom range I want is wide-~50 or so." --Happy

Oven<br>

</em><br>

I think you just said you want a 25~50/4.0 AIS Nikkor. Am I

right?<br>

<br>

<a href="http://www.naturfotograf.com/lens_surv.html">Lens Survey

And Subjective Evaluations by Bjørn Rørslett</a><br>

<br>

Another fine lens is the AF 35~70/2.8D Nikkor. I think a variable

maximum aperture lens would be a complete pain on the FM family

and since I use FE2(s) in manual mode for the FE family also. Be

careful about buying an AF zoom for manual focus. Some have a very

short throw or degrees of rotation from infinity to minimum focus.

These are very hard to focus manually. Also the AF 50/1.8 has a

terrible feel for manual focus (mine anyway) so try the lens

before you buy. I dont mind the AF 35~70/2.8D in manual

focus. <br>

<br>

<em>'Right now I only have a Micro-Nikkor 55mm AIS, which I

purchased because it seemed to double as a "normal"

lens.' --HO<br>

</em><br>

My first lens for my first SLR was a 55/3.5 Micro-Nikkor. I

dumped Nikon just before IC lenses came out and my first lens for

my second Nikon system was a 55/3.5 AI Micro-Nikkor. There are a

bunch of 55 Micro-Nikkors. Most work very well at normal

distances. They are fast enough to cover for a normal lens during

the day but in the evening or indoors a 50/1.8 AI or AIS is a

better choice. I had a 50/1.4 AI and it was a dog wide open (bad

sample?). The late 50/1.4 AIS (compact version) and AF are said

to be much better, first rate. <br>

<br>

A number of years ago I tested a most of my lenses. First and

second place when to a 50/1.8 AI and 55/2.8 AIS respectively. An

85/1.4 AIS and 105/2.5 AIS tied for third. Maybe it was a three

way tie with the 180/2.8ED. <br>

<br>

Hope this helps,

I�ll second the 24 and 105 suggestions but I�d buy a 25~50/4.0 AIS if a good sample is at hand. Don�t confuse that lens with later 24~50/x~x AF zooms.

 

A 24/2.8, 55/3.5 or 2.8 and a 105/2.5 makes a very nice trio. A fanny pack with spaces for three lenses makes changing lenses really easy. You just swing it around front. Even with a 48 lb. back pack it�s not a problem. It�s obvious to most but having front and rear caps for all lenses makes changing lenses a two hand job rather than a three hand job. Depending on the subject a person likes I�d even recommend (and have) a 105/2.5 as a first lens.

 

If you�re set on buying a zoom get a lens that performs its best buy f/5.6. I wouldn�t go for a variable maximum aperture for an FM/FE family camera and short zoom ranges of 2x to 3x are usually best.

 

Regards,

<a href="http://home.aut.ac.nz/staff/rvink/nikon3.html"

target="_new">http://home.aut.ac.nz/staff/rvink/nikon3.html</a>

Thanks for all the quick replies.

 

I was only considering a zoom because I am going to purchase a Nikkor-Q 200mm (~1.4 lbs.) This should only cost me about 50$ and should be as long as I'll need.

 

I had looked into the 24mm AI prime, but couldn't find it on ebay at the moment. It looks like no AI or AIS 85mm prime nikkors are for sale either. I'll keep my eyes open.

 

I had only been reading www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/nikkor.html and other online reviews. So, thanks for another link.

I would recommend that you get a 200/4.0 that is the later compact version. The early 200/4.0(s) never had a good reputation as I recall. I�ve never owned either as at first I had an 80~200/4.5 and later had and still have the excellent 180/2.8ED. John Shaw used the late version 200/4.0 for stacking lens. It�s shown in his book, Closeups In Nature.

The variable aperture is a problem when you're constantly reframing by changing focal length and therefore changing the effective aperture. As long as you frame, focus, and then touch up the exposure you're fine. I use an MF 35-70/3.3-4.5 on an FM without a whole lot of anxiety, as long as I keep an eye on the meter diodes. It's simpler on the FE/FE2/FA set for aperture priority.

 

If you don't intend to ever use AF and it doesn't affect the other functions of the lens, $40 isn't bad. Don't expect to make money on it later.

If you can find it used, the 35-70/2.8 is a very good lens and has constant aperture. There are also older wide angle zooms with constant apertures but they're not as contrasty. There is a rather large AI(S?) 35-70/3.5 which is probably pretty good as well, although the coating issue still exists. Hard to find these older lenses clean, too.

 

I would suggest that you bite the bullet and get an F80/F100 and whatever lenses you need. These cameras have spot meters (which ease the pain of using cameras in manual mode tremendously) and they control the aperture electronically so if you use AF lenses, they all become constant aperture except when you use them wide open. This is what you'll end up with in the end anyway so start saving! ;-)

Thanks for all the responses. I ended up buying a 24mm f2.8 AI lens that looks to be in very good condition for 165$. This should leave me with enough cash to buy a HP film scanner.

 

Ilkka,

I wish buying an F100 was even an option for me :)