Using photo paper as film for large format demonstration?

I have an old wooden large format 4 3/4" x 6 1/2" camera (unknown make), with rising front and a 8 1/2"

Ross lens. Is this a half plate size? I would like to try using photographic paper as film in the plate holder,

to take a portrait photo, develop the paper 'negative' and then contact print this onto another sheet of

paper. This would be intended as a simple demonstration of traditional positive/negative photography for

students. I have a traditional photography background and know that ideally the 'negative' material

should have a transparent base, but I am trying to keep this as simple as possible.

What do you think? is is practicle? what sort of iso speed would b&w photographic paper have?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts!

Good idea. Please let us know how it works out.

I use paper in pinhole cameras, and rate Ilford Multigrade IV RC at ISO 6-10 as a starting point with good results. This is, of course, a very crude method compared to your application. Your set up should work fine. Post a sample with details if you have time. I may try paper in the 4 by 5 holders and a 'proper' camera to get more precise results, sounds fun.

Using a paper negative is the oldest negative / positive method. Originally the process used sensitized paper which was then waxed to make it partially transparent. The texture of the paper added to the overall soft effect.

 

Here's the whole story though I expect you may want to do something simpler!

 

http://albumen.stanford.edu/library/monographs/sunbeam/chap29.html

Look at this site:

 

http://www.photocritic.org/2006/paper-negative/

And this:

 

http://www.pinholeresource.com/shop/home

As mentioned above, pinhole photographers do that all the time. You will get a sharper, though reversed, image if you contact print emulsion to emulsion.

Another option, which I feel is better all around, is to load your camera with litho film. You can cut it to size under a red safelight and develop it right in front of your class. This will provide a demonstration of what is actually happening to a piece of film as you develop it, AND what happens when you fix it. You can see it clear right in front of your eyes. You can also develop by inspection until you get the contrast you like. Paper is much less sensitive to changes in development. If I remember right, ASA 6 is a good starting point for Arista litho in standard paper developer.

 

Keith

Forgot to mention: Yes, that is half plate size. Not half of a full plate linearly, but approximately half as far as emulsion area is concerned. Half of full plate linearly is quarter plate, or what we commonly call 3x4.

 

Keith

Here's what you really need. It's a Mexican street photographer's setup. He shoots on B&W paper, then develops it within the "darkroom" box on the back of the camera, working through sleeves. When it's developed, he takes the paper neg, puts it in the frame on the front of the camera and racks the bellows out to a preset spot, shoots a copy of the neg on another piece of paper, and develops that in the box. (He let me look inside--there are a couple of small trays in there.) Then he swishes it around in a bucket of water, and mounts it in a paper folder. Extra prints are available on the spot, of course.

<a href="http://tonopahpictures.0catch.com/Devil/Devil.html">Here's</a> a page of pics made with paper negs. Nice to have some Dektol waiting so you can get immediate feedback on your exposures. I used modern MG RC paper and put a yellow #1 printing filter in front of the taking lens to soften the contrast.

Do it!

 

Then tell us how it worked, what settings you used, etc.

 

I was thinking of trying this with an 8X10, so I would like to know what paper you used, f stop, speed, etc.

 

(I have heard a suggestion that single-grade paper should be used, but they didn't say what grade.)

 

John

<p>"<i>I have heard a suggestion that single-grade paper should be used, but they didn't say what grade.</i>" Perhaps a suggestion to use single-<i>weight</i> paper?</P>

Here is a previous thread on the subject: http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=003Hi3

By single grade I am sure that they meant graded paper as opposed to Multigrade, Polycontrast, Variable Contrast, etc., depending on which brand's name for it is. Single-weight paper is almost nonexistent these days.

 

Keith