Using on camera flash for event with high ceilings

Hello people, my topic today may have already been discussed so if I am being repetitive with my topic I apologize. I have an event I will be shooting on December 1st, evening time, Christmas party being put on by a large corporate law firm, so it is quite incumbent that I get this right. I went and visited the location today; It is a rather large banquet room that is surrounded on all sides by floor to ceiling glass windows, it has very high ceilings with lights embedded in them, and, there will also be four different food stations that will have their own set of lights too. I shoot with a Canon 5 D Mark II, the lens I plan on using for this event is my Tamron 24-70 f 2.8 with a stabilizer, and my flash is a Canon 600 EX-RT. I just purchased a MagBounce flash diffuser, but am wondering if it will be applicable in a situation such as this. Lastly, what mode would you suggest I shoot this event in? I use AV for pretty much all my fashion shoots, and TV for my previous racing shoots. I did a shoot a couple of years ago that was held in a tavern at night; I used flash and tried to shoot in AV, but the images were a disaster in and for blurriness for most of the images. It is with the thought of the consequences from that event that I write this today, asking for your expert advice. I have not shot manually; it is unfortunately something I have avoided out of fear of failure, but this is not the time or place to try and rectify that. I apologize for this long winded post. It is my hope however that my questions will be answered and that I can pull this shoot off with great success. Thank you

You first have to make a decision whether (a) ambient light will be your primary light source and flash will be for fill, or (b) use the flash as your primary source of light. If option "a", then set the camera to Av or Tv and make sure the shutter speed is high enough to freeze subject movement and your aperture supports the DOF you need (may need to manually adjust your ISO to make that work). In TV and Av modes, the Canon flash provides fill.

 

If option "b", then set the camera on M mode and set the aperture to provide needed DOF. Adjusting the shutter speed only changes the amount of ambient light that impacts the image. The flash will automatically provide the main exposure for the image, and as long as the ambient light is at least 2-3 stops underexposed, you should not have an issue with too slow a shutter speed resulting in ghosting (within reason, like no lower than 1/30th). Any change in shutter speed (up to the max sync speed) has no impact on flash exposure, only on how much ambient light is added to the image. Again, ISO will impact how much flash power is needed to light the scene. Bouncing the flash onto a high ceiling will require more flash power (and subsequently higher ISO) than shooting with direct flash.

 

You need to choose option "a" or "b", or you can try both. With the limitations of film (and earlier digital cameras) in a low light event, option "b" was the only practical option to get high quality images. Today with the high ISO capable cameras, like your 5D II, you may be able to get good results with ambient light only, or ambient with fill flash. I can't comment on the MagBounce since I am not sure what it does. Those floor to ceiling mirrors would scare me, and you need to make sure you (or your flash) do not show up in the mirror..

To be very blunt: if you're asking these questions here, you're probably not an experienced pro photographer. So the first thing you should ask yourself is whether you're qualified and experienced enough for this event. For example: do you have backups (photographers, bodies, lenses)?

 

I'm just an amateur. I'm occasionally asked to do 'events' that are similar to what you describe but on a purely voluntary basis (no contract, no pay, 'best effort' agreement). At these events, I always take a on-camera flash (and back-up body!) along but I've hardly ever used it. I don't really know how I can best use a flash so I avoid using it if possible. At an event, a flash is always intrusive so I'm always happy if I can get away without using it.

 

I have a Canon 6D and I use the same Tamron 24-70 f 2.8 too. The 24-70mm range on a full-frame is great for wide- mid -range. But I also need my 70-200mm lens for close-ups and for situations (speeches, presentations) where it's difficult/disrupting to get close front-on.

 

I usually take photos on AV but in low-light (without flash) you need to bump up the ISO. This means more noise reduction in pp.

+1 for Mike Morrell's comment--your questions tell me that you're not really prepared for this job. If you aren't familiar with operating your camera in manual mode you need to learn how to use it for situations like this. I'm not familiar with your specific diffuser, but don't expect most of these devices to provide much improvement in the quality of light that a small battery powered flash unit will provide.

Did you meter during your scouting?

Did you get an idea of the color temperature of the lights in the room, to know how to gel your flash to match these? - That would be handy if @Ken Katz 's "option a" is an option, according to your metering.

I'm not familiar with the 5D II.

1. What is your highest, noise wise acceptable, ISO setting for that gig? - Recalling Lensrentals' Roger blogging about my Monochrom being on par with it, I would not like to go higher than ISO 2500. - YMMV; maybe my B&W noise is more beautiful than yours in color...
   
2. What is your minimal shutter speed? I have no clue how much motion blur you consider acceptable / worth risking and how well the Tamron IS (or what they call it) might work.
   
3. The maximum aperture you are willing to use. Framing more than one person but having only one within DOF is probably not the kind of picture your client is after. Does your AF work well with f2.8? - Mine seems more successful around f4 or smaller.
   

From these 3 values, you hopefully already determined in advance, you have to start making up your mind about "option a". If it is no option (or in plain English "too dark"), I'd drop into manual mode, back on a sufficiently low ISO, and rely on my flash, as main light. you can watch your meter reading and see how many stops you are underexposing the ambient light. But you previously determined the end of dragging your shutter a bit and maybe playing with 2nd curtain sync.

If it calms you down, regarding your fear of "manual mode": This is not true manual, since you'll have your TTL flash still trying to autoexpose your pictures.

 

I am not familiar with your MagBounce toy. In doubt: take a person you know outdoors by night and shoot them with direct unmodified flash and the MagBounce too. - I assume results will be very barely distinguishable, if at all. But it is soothing to use such devices; at least we try to make an effort...

 

As Ken already elaborated: Bouncing flash will cost you recharge time and most likely a higher ISO setting needed since you'll need more power per pop. Activate blown highlights warning and learn how to do exposure compensation for the flash; you might need to do them. (I use Yongnuos and don't know the Canon units.)

 

In a nutshell: Direct on camera flash isn't the greatest way to light an event, but lets you bring something home, independent of an absence of ambient light.

The alternative would be a couple of flashes on high light stands in the corners of the area you are trying to cover.

 

No comment on "being prepared". Everybody struggles the same way in the dark, without enough lights. On camera flash might still be a safer bet than diving ultra deep into the available light desperado role and returning with noisy images framing multiple folks, of whom one person might be almost within DOF...

Upon gear in general: I agree with

I also need my 70-200mm lens for close-ups and for situations (speeches, presentations) where it's difficult/disrupting to get close front-on.

To get such jobs done, I rather have 2 cameras 2 flashes and some backup lenses.

I don't know if you can use the flash because I found if the ceiling is too high any kind of diffuser doesn't work all that well. Whenever I use flash I always use M.

You first have to make a decision whether (a) ambient light will be your primary light source and flash will be for fill, or (b) use the flash as your primary source of light. If option "a", then set the camera to Av or Tv and make sure the shutter speed is high enough to freeze subject movement and your aperture supports the DOF you need (may need to manually adjust your ISO to make that work).

 

Be aware that, when in Av Mode, the Camera will seek to dictate the Shutter Speed RANGE. This can be (somewhat) controlled by setting Custom Functions. I think it is listed as "Safety Shift", I don't use it because I never use Av Mode, with Flash. Using M Mode, allows greater control of the Tv Range

 

WW

Personally, I think you are in over your head.

 

I am guessing that this will be an evening/night event. with NO sunlight from the windows.

 

If you have to use the flash as primary light:

 

And PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE.

If you can, do a practice shoot at the venue, to learn what ideas work and what do not.

You have 2 weeks to become one with your gear and know what to do.

 

Gud Luk

FYI - the OP has asked a second question on the same topic here {LINK}