using a flash with a hassalblad superwide

<p>hello everyone<br>

I have a question about useing a flash for a hassalblad superwide. I have tried pretty much everything, an assortment of metz flashs and speedlights etc put i just cant get enough coverage, its ok when you are fairly close to a subject but when you have a person in frame from tip to toe the drop of on the edges is considerable. But Frielander can do it HOW DOES HE!!! its driving me mad on careful study of his images he has used a ring flash but i cant even get that to work, the ring flash that i can find that will attach to the front of the lens of course appears in frame. and i dont think he has used a ring flash for a while.<br>

I have been looking at the portrait Avedon took of him where Friedlander has his camera round his neck, unfortunatly where the flash is its cut of by the edge of the frame but it looks like he has something attached to the Hassalblad viewfinder which is a slightly newer version than the one i have.<br>

In the reflections of some of his photos im sure there is a metz in there somewhere (and yes ive got the wideangle adaptor on) and there is some sort of frame/grip around the camera with a flash on top.<br>

if any one has any idea no matter how small please tell me.<br>

I need your help.</p>

<p>Have you considered a bare bulb type flash? </p>

<p>I have used Metz 60 CT-4 with it's integrated diffuser combined with SWC 905. Has worked for me.</p>

<p>Kerkko K.</p>

<p>Bare bulb will certainly work, but it's best used on a stand some distance from the camera.</p>

<p>A more practical solution is to us a diffusion dome, like comes with a Nikon flash or made by Sto-Fens. That's why you see them on all of the news cameras at a photo op - not for diffusion but for even coverage at close range with a wide lens. They work best if tilted upwards. If pointed directly forward they tend to create an hot spot and can interfere with the auto exposure sensor on the flash.</p>

<p>Other than the ubiquitous Nikon SB-800, I use the domed diffuser with my Q-flash. I have a Gary Fong "Lightsphere" which is arguably one of most disappointing items in my kit (it works no better than a Sto-Fens and needs rigger's tape to keep it from falling off the flash). The Auto sensors in the Nikon and Quantum work very well.</p>

<p>I use a Metz 45 series flash with Stofen Omnibounce. Simple. Works.</p>

<p>Ulrik</p>

<p>Unless you are using a lens with 360 degree vision, bare buld is not a good idea. Merely a good waste of output.<br>

And given that the output already has to be spread over the wide field of view of the 38 mm, out put is already getting 'thin', and it is best to use a reflector.<br>

The regular reflectors with wide angle thingies will not illuminate much wider than 65 degrees, some 7 degrees short of what the Biogon sees. Edward's suggestion to use a diffusion dome is a good one.</p>

 

<p>I just purchased an SWC/M and included in the package was a lenshade that has two Vivitar 252 flashes taped to it. I haven't tried it yet, but should get to it in a few weeks. I got it from Keith Johnson and his website is <a href="http://www.keithjohnsonphotographs.com">www.keithjohnsonphotographs.com</a> . Look at his shots and see if you determine if he used flash in those.<br>

I am quite curious about how LF used flash in his shots as well, and have noticed the flash unit that is in the Avedon shot of him. Curious.</p>

<p>Gary</p>

<p>Hi Everyone i have another Lee friedlander related question. <br>

I have a hassalblad superwide and have been using a number of on camera flashes. To use the flash i have a bracket from custombraket.com this works well but is very bulky and cumbersome i have found a video of lee friedlander and have taken a still from it which shows a small bracket attached to the eyepiece hot shoe which the flash fits to.  <br>

i have heard this bracket was custom built. custombracket.com wont make it any one got any other ideas?<br>

i live in the UK but will have it made in the US if thats what it takes<br>

jb</p><div></div>

<p>Jon, <br>

Don't know if you are still pursuing an answer to this, but I purchased an SWC/M from a former Hasselblad rep in NYC that sold cameras to Mr. Friedlander. The kit that I purchased had two Vivitar flash units taped to the squarish lens hood for the CF Biogon, connected into a PC connector star and then into the PC connector. I took it apart since I wasn't using it and wanted a spare lens hood. This might be a solution for you? </p>

Old thread. Looking closely at LF's SWC landscape pictures the other day I think I noticed that most of the flash effect seems to happen in the foreground. This suggests to me a small flash aimed down. Still, I would love to know more on this subject.

I use a Nikon or Sony flash with a diffusing hood with lenses far wider than an Hasselblad Superwide. Indoors, pointed toward the ceiling, it illuminates the entire room, using the ceiling and walls to disperse the light. Outdoors, i point it toward the subject for fill light only. The entire room is your "soft box." Otherwise, no Rube Goldberg contraption erected on the camera will do the work of a real soft box the size of its distance from the subject.

 

At close range, the size of the flash increases relative to the field of view. Your problem is more likely too much light, rather than coverage. An LED panel light might be more than enough, or an LED ring light.

 

Despite their size, LED panels can have a narrow field of illumination. It depends on the design of each LED in the array. 35 degree angles are typical for video work, like using a grid in the studio in lieu of a spotlight.

Edited September 15, 2017 by Ed_Ingold

I Illuminate fisheye shots using multiple Metz heads with at least one bouncing off a wall or ceiling. If you have to remain portable bouncing off a reflector or ceiling is an option. Shooting with your flash off camera through two transparent umbrellas (one on each side) works the best for me. You have many options, you have some good recommendations so far. Hope you have a flash meter, make sure your lighting is uniform.